fish mouthing pipes

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 16:55:28 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for fish mouthing pipes

i did some fab work today that included this for the first time today .i just ground away slowly and fit the pipes really nice..is there a tool that halps with this?.
Reply:Bridgeport with the right size endmill..The 'ol Joint Jigger that uses holesaws...Someone really good with a hand grinder...Milling Machine with the right size cutter...Tops of belt sanders with the guard removed...There are many ways to fishmouth tubing......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:thanks ...i used a hand grinder and a few round files today and just took my time..they came out really well...thebelt sander thats a exellent idea
Reply:They make a couple of things to slide over the pipe to allow you to mark it and cut it with a torch or grind. One type is a fixed templete for 90* and 45*. The other type is like a needle contour gauge that fits around the pipe. Most welding supply shops will have one type or the other.
Reply:Zap hit it- the 'ol holesaw. Jig the pipe in a drillpress and use one side of the holesaw to cut the pipe.For the recieving end, use a holesaw that's one size smaller to make the female hole, then file or ream the hole by hand to fit.
Reply:This tube coping template calculator works really well. For those of you who don't need to do it on metal right now try it for fun on some cardboard tubes using an exacto knife.http://metalgeek.com/cgi-system/php5...atic/cope.pcgiA man who can't weld is as poorly educated as a woman who can't sew
Reply:WWW.trick-tools.com . The TN-100 tubing notcher works pretty well. A good tool for $200.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:I have a Curv-O-Mark for layout, and use a torch. Tar paper templates work good too.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:To add to what I posted before, If I was making a fence out of pipe or something like that I'd mark it with some kind of lay out template and torch it but if I was was some kind of roll bar or chassis tube I'd use the joint jigger type tools or end mill. Don't torch the thin wall tubing and you wouldn't like to try pipe in a joint jigger.
Reply:http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htmIm not sure if this is the exact program I used before, but basically you enter wall thickness, size, and desired angle and it prints a template you can cut out and use on tubing to give you a good fitup.Last edited by pilebuck; 10-07-2007 at 10:07 PM.2011 Dodge 3500 diesel duallyLincoln SA-200Lincoln SAE-300LN-25'sLincoln Idealarc R3RMiller Trailblazer 302
Reply:Back in my stock car days I had quite a bit of fish mouthing to do when fabricating roll cages.....I made a template out of a piece of fiberglass tubing (you could use metal) that had an ID that would fit the OD of the roll cage tubing....it had a perfect fishmouth that worked with the drag shield on my plasma torch. Most newer  low powered plasma torches have a shield that is designed to work with a template like this...works very well, and there is virtually no setup required.jim colt
Reply:we use wheels on a belt sander, different size wheels for different size tube.  for bigger stuff we have a tube notcherHave we all gone mad?
Reply:Gidday  I've been saving for this unit to do my pipe notching (Amongst other things) Some have said the belts wear out to quick to notch large quantities anyone got any experience with this?http://www.specialabrasives.com/radiusmaster.htm#wearhttp://www.abc.net.au/tv/newinventors/txt/s1614599.htmREgards Lou Attached ImagesLast edited by Lou2u; 10-13-2007 at 06:26 PM.Just do the best u can with what u have at the time
Reply:For handrail applications Kidder Mfg. makes a very nice portable press which can be equipped with pipe notching dies   http://www.kidder-mfg.com/catalogs/56bmc.pdf   Unfortunately it only works on 90° joints.  I've worked with two of those machines and while they don't cut a tight fishmouth the cut is very acceptable for handrail work as it is very easy to stitch the sides neatly, leaving only a minimum of grinding.There is another notcher out there that cuts a long fishmouth for angled handrail applications, such as stair rails.  Don't remember the name but I dealt with one of those too.  With an operator posessing an IQ slightly great than their shoe size it could make a good joint in almost any angle of rail intersection except 90°.  Combined with a Kidder for those cuts it was part of a rail building system that was very hard to beat.I wish I had the dollar value of all the rails I built over the several years I worked on misc metals.  That was far before the age of digital cameras or I'd have pictures of them.
Replyur belt sander has alot of different attachments like that radius master, as for belt life they seem to hold up quite well, when fishmouthing we use 60 grit belts and they will easily last through 60 or more notches.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Harbor Freight has a tubing notcher for around $40.00, works with a drill press, or you can use a hand drill with it. check out:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42324
Reply:You can also just use a chopsaw.The following was taken from Pirate4x4 and it's wat I use.The chop saw method,if understood , is a science. With known tube size and joint angle, tube can be notched with great accuracy. The notch is acheved by cutting two opposing angles on one end of a peice of tube, to form a point. The cross-section of this cut will be an elipitical cut due to the shape of the tube. Changes in boath of the two angled cuts must be made for the intersection angle and the size of the two tubes being joined. The only real limitation is the max angle of the chop saw.You start with what I call the base angle. This is the angle of boath cuts if the joint was 90*. For an example, I am fitting Two tubes together that are boath 1.75", at an 90* joint. The base angle, or the angle of boath cuts is 28*. These two cuts must meet at a point, and the point must allso be centered on the tube.What if I want an 15* joint with my 1.75" tube???? You must start with your base angle, witch was 28* for 1.75"(remember above), and subtract 15* from one cut, and add 15* to the other cut to form a perfect notch. So now I must make a 13* cut and an 43* cut , with the point centered on the tube. Perfect coped joint, with no grinding.Remember your base angle will change with the tube being cut and the tube that you are fitting to.Here are a few examples of base angles...2.0" to 2.0" tube, base angle of 30*1.75" to 1.75" tube, base angle of 28*1.5" to 1.5" tube, base angle of 26*1.25" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 22.5*1" to 1" tube, Base angle of 20*Now to fit diffrent size tubes together 1.75" to 2" tube, base angle of 25*1.75" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 45*1.25" to 1.75 tube, base angle of 20*1" to 2" tube, base angle of 12*I hope that helpsMy Photos on Flickr
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterBridgeport with the right size endmill..The 'ol Joint Jigger that uses holesaws...Someone really good with a hand grinder...Milling Machine with the right size cutter...Tops of belt sanders with the guard removed...There are many ways to fishmouth tubing......zap!