I have a jeep project I'm working on and I'm trying to sort the steering problems out. I want to mount the tie rod on top the spindles instead of the bottom for added clearance. It is a tapered hole and I need it to taper the other direction. I'm thinking of placing a piece of copper pipe in the hole and filling the taper in around the pipe then using a reamer to taper it the other direction. I have it all figured out but I'm concerned about trying to ream out the weld as I'm worried it will be too hard. Anyone have any experience with machining weld? Any other suggestions? Open to any thoughts, suggestions, and advice! Thanks!
Reply:Any time you mess with suspension components you are taking risks that could haunt you should anything go wrong...bla bla, just as long as you know.To avoid welding a suspenssion component, why not drill it out and press in a taper (bit of lathe time) in the opposite direction that has a lip on the back to prevent it pulling through?weld won't be too hard, but not easy to MIG down in a hole and what it will do to the strength of the whole part, who knows.Last edited by Timberwolf; 05-21-2009 at 11:34 AM.Lincoln PT185 TIGLincoln 175 MIGLincoln 240 amp AC StickLind Needle Arc plasma welderPlasma cutter, soon???
Reply:For knuckle overs, upgrade to chevy 1-ton TRE's and you can ream the arms from the top because they are larger.If you decide to weld it, keep in mind the knuckles are cast iron.
Reply:If they are cast iron definitely ream to large size. If cast or forged steel I'd oversize the holes straight, weld up entirely, then re drill & ream. Weld always tends to get a hard ring around the outside of the point of penitration into the parent metal. At least in any steel that has any carbon content at all. If you oversize the hole even by 1/8" you move this hardened area out beyond any machining operation.You can determine if the arms are cast iron or steel from a simple grinder spark test. If you have never done the "Spark Test" LOL. Tig your angle grinder to the corner of an engine block, then to the corner of a piece of steel. The cast sparks will be shorter in length & notably more orange in color.From the "Book of Barnyard Welding 101" also from the "University of Hard Knocks" LOLAs stated above. Modifying suspension/steering components could be hazardous to you an others & Don't try this at home......."We are Porfessionals"IF IT WORKS, DON'T FIX IT2 Lincoln CV-300 / LN-7 GMALinde-VI 253,400 & 450 w/MIG35 feedersCNC Table with Oxweld O/A & Hypertherm 1250G3Lincoln Ranger GXT 250Hobart-MicroWire 300ESAB Heliarc 161ESAB-Mobilemaster 2 CC/CV Feeders& more
Reply:Originally Posted by millman52If you have never done the "Spark Test" LOL. Tig your angle grinder to the corner of an engine block
Reply:Originally Posted by fredfHow do I TIG my angle grinder to the block?? -- its PLASTIC!!!!!!
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OL ok one on me. Local slang I guess tig = touch I did write it as Tig not TIGIF IT WORKS, DON'T FIX IT2 Lincoln CV-300 / LN-7 GMALinde-VI 253,400 & 450 w/MIG35 feedersCNC Table with Oxweld O/A & Hypertherm 1250G3Lincoln Ranger GXT 250Hobart-MicroWire 300ESAB Heliarc 161ESAB-Mobilemaster 2 CC/CV Feeders& more
Reply:Thanks for the input everyone! It is definitely cast as I believe someone already mentioned. As far as strength with suspension components I'm only dealing with the hole so I should be ok. If it were a stuctural weld I would definitely think twice as I am welding on cast but because I am only really changing the direction of the taper even if the weld doesn't hold well it is going to be sandwiched in the hole between the tie rod stud and existing metal essentially creating a sleeve of sorts.
Reply:It has the appearance of cast with a parting line and rough finish but it will be a forged steel piece or at the least, if it is fifty years old, a cast steel piece. If you file cast iron then rub the filings between your fingers the carbon in the cast iron will show black on your finger tips. Steering arms are forged steel and often heat treated for maximum strength. Once you weld on something like that you open a Pandora's box. I would choose going oversize, machining an insert with press fit or silver soldering it in to minimize damage.
Reply:Originally Posted by lotechmanIt has the appearance of cast with a parting line and rough finish but it will be a forged steel piece or at the least, if it is fifty years old, a cast steel piece. If you file cast iron then rub the filings between your fingers the carbon in the cast iron will show black on your finger tips. Steering arms are forged steel and often heat treated for maximum strength. Once you weld on something like that you open a Pandora's box. I would choose going oversize, machining an insert with press fit or silver soldering it in to minimize damage.
Reply:Originally Posted by TSORAre you guessing? or do you actually know that?
Reply:Originally Posted by lotechmanThe only "cast" steering arms I have ever seen were on imported Russian farm tractors in the 1970's Another guess is that those were malleable iron. I am sure if we look around enough someone has manufactured engine connecting rods out of cast iron but I am also sure if you ask anyone they will proclaim con-rods are forged steel. In conclusion my "know" is a little bet better than my "guess" That is why I suggest filing the material and check for carbon/graphite in the filings.
Reply:Your best bet would be to avoid welding on the knuckle altogether, and upgrade to a larger t.r.e. Then all you have to do if locate the right ends, find the right reamer, and you're pretty well done. Go to www.jeepforum.com sign up and search. There's lot's of good info there about all sorts of mods to jeeps. I'm on my 4th Toledo project now. 1- 77 fs cherokee,2- 76 cj5(past, current, and future project, because you do know once you start messing with a jeep you're never done) 3- 80 cj5 (got all we could from it, now it's gone to the big crusher in the sky, but I still see parts of it going down the road all the time), 4- 99 xj (daddy wagon,daily driver when I'm not ridin' 'round in the welding rig)Brian LeonardAppalachian Ironworks L.L.C.434 Long Branch Rd, Marshall, NC 28753828 649 9966828 702
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Reply:Originally Posted by app-ironworksllcYour best bet would be to avoid welding on the knuckle altogether, and upgrade to a larger t.r.e. Then all you have to do if locate the right ends, find the right reamer, and you're pretty well done. Go to www.jeepforum.com sign up and search. There's lot's of good info there about all sorts of mods to jeeps. I'm on my 4th Toledo project now. 1- 77 fs cherokee,2- 76 cj5(past, current, and future project, because you do know once you start messing with a jeep you're never done) 3- 80 cj5 (got all we could from it, now it's gone to the big crusher in the sky, but I still see parts of it going down the road all the time), 4- 99 xj (daddy wagon,daily driver when I'm not ridin' 'round in the welding rig)
Reply:Why do all that work when they sell a kit with the reamer to do this exact job. The time you will spend and the risk you will take far out weigh the cost of the kit.
Reply:Oversized tapered hole and a machined Gear bronze cone insert...........'nuff said
Reply:On second thought, just get youself some D60's and go full hydro and high steer, like I did! Attached Images
