Any tips on shaving bumper bolts? I will be using a mig. I have a unplated steel bumper. I plan to attatch the bumper, them tack weld the bolts to the bumper, pull it and weld inside of bumper, flip it around grind the bolt head flush, finish welds, and grind down again. One of my concerns it that there are actaully 4 bolts, to top and two bottom that go in a different angles. Once I have it welded up, what types of fit problems will I have?
Reply:Originally Posted by hp246Any tips on shaving bumper bolts? I will be using a mig. I have a unplated steel bumper. I plan to attatch the bumper, them tack weld the bolts to the bumper, pull it and weld inside of bumper, flip it around grind the bolt head flush, finish welds, and grind down again. One of my concerns it that there are actaully 4 bolts, to top and two bottom that go in a different angles. Once I have it welded up, what types of fit problems will I have?
Reply:what is this on a pick up , car or big truck?
Reply:76 Ford pickup
Reply
oes the mounting frame have slots in it? If so, your cool... like the guy said, tack lightly and see if you can remove it without the tacks breaking.Master Manipulator of Molten Metal Matt. 5-14 14"You are the light of the world. Therefore Ladies and Gentlemen.....let there be light! The welder creed: 'Mo heat, 'mo rod and 'mo money!Old school AWS member '96.
Reply:I would bolt the bumper in place and then weld some brackets to the bumper that I could bolt to the frame.Then pull the bumper and weld the bolt holes closed, that way you all ways have some way to adjust/align the bumper. But that just me. Post some pictures of this bumper project.Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:Thanks for the ideas guys. Haven't looked at the bolt holes recently, but yeah I think they are oversozed though not necessarily slotted. Good idea about the photos. I'll see what I can do. Shooting for Saturday to play with it.
Reply:Are you planning on having it rechromed? If so, don't do all the blending/grinding yourself! Let the platers do that. It won't look it, but you'll almost always take off too much and leave a bit of a dip or low spot that the platers will have to fill in and refinish, which will add quite a bit to the time/expense.
Reply:If you can get up into the area with a permanent marker! Fit the bumper up into its proper place and mark from the back the location of the frame bolt holes onto the bumper. Then take the bumper back down. Only tack the bolts onto the bumper then gently fit the bumper into place making sure the bumper bolts fit into the frame. Once your sure the bolts are properly fitted weld them onto the bumper and rehang the bumper onto the frame.Hope that helpsCo-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.& 2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:this was a popular trick back in the eighties. stwelder nailed it. weld some tabs on the inside of the bumper and then use them to mount to the the bracing.
Reply:Ah you know that trickCo-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.& 2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Take the bumper bolts out, cut the head off them but leave the square shank. Put the bolts back in, mount the bumper. Now a chrome plater told me to make sure you grind the chrome away from any area you plan to weld, something about the nickel content being too high if you weld over the chrome and it causes problems with the plating process. Weld the head of the bolts to bumper.
Reply:No, I'mm not palnning on having the bumper chromed. I started with a new painted bumper. I found some bolts that have the square similar to a carriage blt, but they have flat heads. They are not plated either. Looked like it might be easier to weld, rather than start with chromed pieces. My thought was, if the bolt trick will work, after grinding, use body filler to smooth out similar to other body work. If the bolts won't work, then I will try the trick about welding tabs to the bumper. Makes sense. Never thought of that. I just figured If the bolts would line up enough for easy removal, it would be easier, and I wouldn't have to try to fill the holes (Haven't been real successful filling holes yet; with holes that size, would I be better trying to cut a piece of material to fit the hole, weld it in place, then grind down?)
Reply:Originally Posted by AntiblingTake the bumper bolts out, cut the head off them but leave the square shank. Put the bolts back in, mount the bumper. Now a chrome plater told me to make sure you grind the chrome away from any area you plan to weld, something about the nickel content being too high if you weld over the chrome and it causes problems with the plating process. Weld the head of the bolts to bumper.
Reply:A little trick is to cut the upper part of the pan head bolt off and tack it onto the bumper. On the bolt is a pan head with a hex head under it,shave just enough of the pan head of that it will stay in place.
Reply:OK,I did this project today. It took me about 5 hours. Hopw the picutre posting works. First picture is a shot of the starting point. Attached Images
Reply:I disconnected the battery. Found a couple of muffler hanger that looked like they would work for a bracket. Cut the rivet out of them and used the top. Attached Images
Reply:Sanded the paint off in the areas I figured would be welded. Used a file to get the paint out of the holes. Attached Images
Reply:Then I bolted the bumper in place. Attached Images
Reply:Then I tacked the top bolts in place, and tacked the brackets into place on the back side of the bumper.
Reply
ets try the pics again Attached Images
Reply:Backside bracket Attached Images
Reply:Removed the bumper, and finished welding everything up. Attached Images
Reply:I made square plugs for the license plate holes and the bottom buper holes, then welded them up. Attached Images
Reply:Ground the weld down Attached ImagesBody filler. Attached Images
Reply:Cleaned eveything up and painted with spray bomb primer for the time being. Primer will be removed when the body and paint work is finished. Attached Images
Reply:Used a drill the same size as the bolt hole in the bracket to start the hole, then used a step drill to finish the hole off. Attached Images
Reply:I think I'd make new brackets. Locate and drill holes that fit the truck frame first, then work out from the truck to make the brackets fit the bumper. Weld the brackets to the bumper.I'm restoring a 74 C-30, and it has weird way to attach the bumper. Bolts directly to the frame if I remember right. And at angles. Stupid design. I may redrill the frame, or make different brackets to get around the problemYou can always fudge where the bracket welds to the bumper, but you can't fudge the bolt hole location on the frame."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:And oneof the other side. Attached Images
Reply:Thanks for all the ideas, especially STwelder for the bracket idea. Please don't be too hard on me regarding the quaility of my welds. This is my first project, other than tacking something in place.
Reply:I see ya got it done alreadyHere I was typin' away as your pics were uploading"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:No problem. What I did was bolt the bumper up then while it was in place, I tacked the brackets to the bumper. I used the stock location on the top of the bumper and the brackets.
Reply:THAT Looks good...That'll work dude! a little clean up and a little paint...walla.I would've used a slightly heavier thickness angle bracket...but...that'll work since all of the bind is on the top bolt "Hanging" the bumper. Just don't try and pull something out with it. Make a "
ull Plate" with a chain hook welded to it and weld it to the bottom of the cross frame under the motor for that.You could use a 1/4" thick piece of plate the same dimensions as the 2 holed part sticking away from the bumper, drill holes in it to match what you have and weld it on the outsides behind what you have as a 'sandwiched fish plated' extra thickness. That would be more solid and less likely for the metal to break away from the bumper should the bumper get hung up. Just a thought....That's a very Good job over all though...way to go...atta boy!Master Manipulator of Molten Metal Matt. 5-14 14"You are the light of the world. Therefore Ladies and Gentlemen.....let there be light! The welder creed: 'Mo heat, 'mo rod and 'mo money!Old school AWS member '96.
Reply:Thanks Jstasney. Yeah, I had a thicker piece of material, but I'm using a Miller off oc 110. I was worried about getting enough penetration. The bracket is actually pretty close to the same thickness as the bumper, though it really doesn't show in the pictures. Because of the way the frame rail is built, you'd have to box the frame in order to sandwich between two brackets.
Reply:No, I'm talking about adding to the thickness of that bracket by placing another piece of plate pre-drilled the same size as that one behind it and seal welding it to the original. If the original bumper is that thick, there is no use in making the bracket any thicker unless the bumper is made from a stronger stamped steel though. It looks like a 1/4" - 20 bolt you've used to bolt it on with. Correct? The original being a 1/2" size bolt?A 110 v AC welder is good for 1/8" to 3/16" max thickness material usually. Using higher quality major brand (Lincoln, Hobart, etc.) innershield wire at the max dia. rated for your machine helps with welding thicker materials with this type of machine. Pre-heating thicker materials will help with weld penetration. Keeping the wire feeding smoothly is the secret, clean the tip a lot and keep it lubed for good results. A 'light' spray of WD-40 works great for a cheap de-spat. Very light now, soaking will produce hydrogen cracks and porosity.Good Luck..< JLSMaster Manipulator of Molten Metal Matt. 5-14 14"You are the light of the world. Therefore Ladies and Gentlemen.....let there be light! The welder creed: 'Mo heat, 'mo rod and 'mo money!Old school AWS member '96.
Reply:Gotcha. I thout you were referring to sandwiching the frame between two brackets. This is a 2 WD lowered 3".so not goning to do any pulling anyway. I used 5/16th stainless to go through the bracket through the frame, and stock, I think 1/2" maybe a bit bigger for the top.Thanks for the other information. Thats why I'm here, to try to pick up tips like that.
Reply:OK, for what you are doing, your fine with what you've got. Good job....Master Manipulator of Molten Metal Matt. 5-14 14"You are the light of the world. Therefore Ladies and Gentlemen.....let there be light! The welder creed: 'Mo heat, 'mo rod and 'mo money!Old school AWS member '96.
