This is what is happening. I got a Clarke stick welder and it has been tripping my breaker. I got it so I can tack some parts on my smoker and to build the grating frames and small projects. Today I tryed to weld on tubing for my hinges and it welded on to the tubing but didnt penetrate the 1/4in tank. Any suggestions Here are some pics of the build. only fillThis is the welder i have been using 3/32 7014 rods
Reply:i say ya need to grind it more ,so ya got clean metal clean the spot where you ground and where you are welding but im a tigger , but can still run the electrodelooking from pics... more grinding
Reply:Considering that is a 110V machine 3/32" rods is about all you will be able to use. Get some 3/32" 6011. The 7014 will work, but I think you will be better with the 6011. If you are tripping the breaker then the circuit is over loaded, and you need a dedicated circuit for the welder. Looking at the pics I think the trouble is your technique. If you are welding to one piece but not the other then you need to work on working your puddle between the two pieces.Last edited by Hammack_Welding; 06-04-2009 at 11:30 PM.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:I got some 3/32 6011 and I couldnt get it to arc to save my life. Then I picked up the rods that the machine came with they looked like 1/8 and it welded and heated up that steel like it should. I tryed to weld tubing on to the smoker and the 6011 just didnt do it for me. The 1/8 didnt trip my braker either. So i might just go with the 1/8 rods. I know The welds look terrible but i had to cover all the 6011 welds with the 1/8 and it even passed the stength test I put a rod and tryed to pull the welded tubing and it held so I guess it 1/8 did it. Here are the pics. \Not bad for a grinder and a cutting wheel.
Reply:I wouldn't call those welds.I think it would be best to practice basic technique on scrap before trying such a project.Choose a rod and master it. Dont keep changing rods thinking its the problem.Sorry to be blunt.
Reply:Originally Posted by LarryOI wouldn't call those welds.I think it would be best to practice basic technique on scrap before trying such a project.Choose a rod and master it. Dont keep changing rods thinking its the problem.Sorry to be blunt.
Reply:first, your fit up is great! i have seen much worse. your fit up will help you tremendously.second, go get 3/32 or 1/8 6013s. that is the most common rod with those little machines. they will be plenty strong enough for what you are wanting to do and with the proper prep. you won't be disappointed. I agree with hammack_welding the 3/32 rod will fit the machine's amp range better than the 1/8 rod. i feel the 1/8 rod though it can be run on your machine will not give you maximum benefit due to the limitations of running in the lower range of the rod. the 6013 is a contact rod/drag rod and easier to master than the 6011.third, when you are welding slow down and let the puddle build up. most beginners weld too fast. going slow accomplishes a couple things for you. it will smooth out your weld by building up heat in the puddle allowing the edges to wet out and allowing the gases, slag and other junk to come to the top and not get trapped in the weld. also you may want to do a slight weave back and for across the joint touching each side of the joint moving in a zig zag fashion.Last edited by Scott Young; 06-06-2009 at 09:28 AM.
Reply:Well so far you have gotten some good advise. Make sure those areas are really clean and free of paint or oil/grease. Make sure you ground clamp area is also very clean. As said keep your stick in weld area longer! With a 110v welder on that 1/4" metal you need to get the heat up to ensure good penetration of the two metals. You may also have to do multiple passes on the weld to ensure good buildup.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.& 2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Thanks for the advise guys. I have been trying to clean the area as much as i can with my grinder. The biggest problem is the welder tripping my breaker. I have tried to turn off anything that is on the breaker and it has been welding better. I cant get to heat the metal long enough without the breaker tipping on me. I am going to rent a good welder with a generator and weld the bigger pieces like the firebox.
Reply:Hello.Maybe first before you rent a generator to meet up with your power needs. Try using a oxy and asc. torch to heat up the metal first to get it nice and hot. It should help a little bit to weld faster and spend less time working the weld in the material. Good luck!
Reply:alright need help with this. I found some tire irons and fit perfect in the tubing. Now I have no tubing bender or torch so any ideas on how i can bend these rods.I have two tire irons
Reply:I would buy atleast a propane torch to heat the rod. Then i would just pound it with a hammer until it had the required shape.
Reply:if those tire irons are of decent quality. they are most likely a higher carbon steel & will be prone to break after heating or welding on them.They may work fine for a hinge or whatever you are doing on this smoker. But most tool steels will get very brittle once welded.I also agree you need a dedicated 20A circuit with at least 12 gauge wire to run the welder.. As much welding as you have to do on this project, you'll be time & money ahead to have one installed.Last edited by millman52; 06-09-2009 at 05:41 PM.IF IT WORKS, DON'T FIX IT2 Lincoln CV-300 / LN-7 GMALinde-VI 253,400 & 450 w/MIG35 feedersCNC Table with Oxweld O/A & Hypertherm 1250G3Lincoln Ranger GXT 250Hobart-MicroWire 300ESAB Heliarc 161ESAB-Mobilemaster 2 CC/CV Feeders& more
Reply:In a pinch I've heated and bent steel with a fire and a blower to increase the heat. Leaf blower and a good bed of coals works well, true coal would be better.Personally if I didn't have the torch I'd cut off the crossbar and just weld flat stock to the round hinge shaft. The flat bar will be a heck of a lot easier to bend cold and you have a welder ( well sort of ) to put the pieces together. I'd probably go with 1" to 1 1/2" wide by 1/4"- 5/16" thick flat stock. FYI make sure those 2 sleeves are welded in the same plane or the hinges won't work well. If the round stock will go thru both barrels and turn as one piece you are OK, if not cut one off and reweld it.
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id you clean a spot for your ground to be connected? Might want to keep the ground and electrode close together, doesn't look like you can afford any lose of amperage. 1/8" rod isn't the answer. Actually, looks like the 6011 is too hot and the 7014 not hot enough. 6011 is the way to go, though.Good luckLast edited by tapwelder; 06-09-2009 at 06:18 PM.
Reply:I weld but do not consider myself a weldor. First the 6011 is normally considered the rod for your material but it takes more practice. A rod that may work well for you and your machine is 6013 also know as farmers rod. It is eazy to strike and hold an arc.
