Dunk tank

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 16:29:10 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for Dunk tank

This question is more for the "seasoned" folk on this site. But maybe a hobbyist would know the answer. At my work we weld LOTS of stainless steeling using the TIG process. Alot of which are small parts and we use an "acid washer" which is nothing more than a car battery charger  with Sulfuric acid that is electrically charged. This method works very well but is extremely time consuming. Anyway we have about 1,000 of these small parts to be cleaned and really dont want to handle each one of them individually as we will be blowing man hours left and right. I used to work in aerospace and we used a dunk tank that worked AWESOME. The tank was heated and I for the life of me can not remember what the solution was that was in the tank. After the parts came from the tank they were SPOTLESS and the welds were a very bright silver. I want to say it was some sort of alkali. But cant remember. Anyone have some thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Replyepending on the desired finish, you are talking about passivation or electropolishing.The chemicals using for electropolishing and  passivating are similar, but either way they are fairly nasty fairly strong acids that require specialized equipment and knowledge to handle safely. If I were you I'd farm it out to a business who specializes in passivating and electropolishing. A good shop should be able to do the job for cheaper than anyone could do it themselves.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Hey JD,Back in my gunsmithing days when I was doing firearm bluing, I had a degrease tank nestled against the bluing tank for heating the solution. The tank was 48"L X 8"W X 6"D & when the bluing tank reached bluing temperature of 292*, the degrease tank was 235*. It was called Dicroclean 909 from Brownell's Gun Supply Co. It totally degreased everything I put in to germ-free which was required to get a superb bluing finish on firearms. I had a contract with a company called Federal Laboratories that supplied the military & would blue 5000 parts a session. I had parts baskets of SS fine mesh so the solution would do a total cleaning. I would agitate the parts at times & use a small brush to move the parts around the basket for a thorough cleaning... about 20 minutes. Then they went into a cold water rinse. It would clean any kind of steel or cast including aluminum, although aluminum would not go into the bluing tank. I still have some I use for the aluminum I machine & use WD-40 for a lubricant so as to eliminate any residue prior to TIG. Then all I do is brush with a SS brush w/acetone. This may work for you. Here's the link & you can call them to see if it may fill your needs.Dennyhttp://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1..._CLEAN_NO__909Complete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:My understanding is that toxic chemicals are no longer required for passivation of SS.    Citrisurf is one brand name.http://www.citrisurf.com/Nitric acid is what used to be used, but why deal with toxic chemicals when you can use citric acid?  Maybe your parts will smell like orange juice.   ;-)I have no personal experience, this is what I have heard and read.  I have no business connection with citrisurf.RichardSculptures in copper and other metalshttp://www.fergusonsculpture.comSyncrowave 200 Millermatic 211Readywelder spoolgunHypertherm 600 plasma cutterThermal Arc GMS300 Victor OA torchHomemade Blacksmith propane forge
Reply:Raferguson, this stuff sounds like it may work. Aditionally it would prevent us from having to obtain some sort of hazardous materials permit and put a placard on our door. I may coax the "Big Cheese" to buy some of this stuff and give it a try. I will post the results if we go this route. Any other ideas gang? Good stuff thus far...
Reply:One idea.  For small parts, you can use an ultrasonic cleaner with the citric acid passivating solution inside (other acids probably wouldn't be safe in there), if you have issues with getting good results down in crevices.  It should also speed up the dip time a bit, as the ultrasonic provides good agitation.