Wheels on the Ground

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 16:10:13 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for Wheels on the Ground

Spindle, hub, and wheel changeover completeNext step is to figure out just what in the H was there to lift the land wheel (the wheel that's in the middle of the plow on the leading edge).  Pics and manual I have only shows the mechanical, and hydraulic lift arrangements, not the manual liftAlso have to fabricate a steering arm and linkage for the front furrow wheel.  That's pretty straightforward, Thank GodMy consulting engineer seemed only mildly interested in the problem.  I think he's more interested in 3 BRAND NEW TIRESHope y'all appreciate the overhead photos.  'Bout fell off the ladder Attached ImagesLast edited by farmersamm; 05-11-2009 at 06:51 PM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Replyooks like you should check the caster, camber and toe-in. OBTW: thanks for the project pics; learn something every time. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:he s gona pee on em when ya turn your back looking good
Reply:Samm, if your's is a M-M plow, loooking at the pic on the cover of the book you have, it appears to have a tie rod from a hinge section on the tongue to the front furrow wheel spindle. It also shows a rod attached to an arm  from front furrow spindle to an arm on the back furrow spindle. It appears set up so when you turn left at the corner the front wheel turns left and makes the back spindle turn right so the plow will follow the tractor thru the turn. You've probably already seen all this. Just thought I'd mention it. It works the same as on a moldboard plow, you can only turn left w/ it. I think a lot of parts have been "borrowed" off your plow. If this is so, figuring out all the geometry for that should be a real challenge!!!!!   As for lifting it, does the land wheel spindle rotate where it goes thru the frame members or is it welded solid to them? If it can be made to rotate, can an arm attached to a hyd cyl be welded to the spindle between the adj plate and main frame to make it lift the frame enough to make the turns in the field? In the cover pic it appears to have a mech lift on the land wheel spindle.                              Just my thoughts,                                                        MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:mla2ofus...... stay online for a bit.  I'm cookin up some pics from the manual.  And I got one pic of the early version of the plow.  It's noodle time, and I need someone who's run one of these things."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:First pic..........  The mechanical lift.  Uses ground wheel to generate force.  Like some of the old moldboard plowsSecond pic..........  The friction and gear drive.  This ain't happenin' Third pic....... The hydraulic lift that was available.  It uses hydraulic cyl at front furrow wheel to lift.  Tie rod/crank to land wheel to lift it at same timeBoth lift points are the front furrow wheel, and land wheel.  The rear furrow wheel trails.Fourth pic...... a partial view of a manual lift plow.  Notice lever sticking up from the ground wheel in front.  This is the one most closely resembling mine.Also the bare bones version of the plow had no provision for steering the rear furrow wheel, see pic 4.  The wheel rides against a restraining post.  No top steering linkage.My problem is that I have to plow the field in a couple of lands.  Most of my stuff is irregular, not square fields.  I need to seperate it into managable lands, lift the plow at the headlands to make the turn, then strike off the headlands after I've finished the lands.  I hope this makes sense.I don't want to be climbin' off the tractor to lift the doggone thing every time I have to make the turn at the headland, keep it in the air for the transport for the next roundy round, then have to climb off again to lower it. Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I think mine was designed as a manual lift plow.  There's no bolt holes for mounting the other options avallable.  Also the lift standards are totally different design"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Thanks for all the pics, Samm. I'm glad to see how it was setup. IIRC, the disc I pulled as a kid had steering to only the front furrow wheel and had mech lift. It's been around 50 yrs since I pulled it so can't recall how the lift worked to pull all the discs  out of the ground. It would give me some brain pain, but I think you could set up the front wheel steering.   I think the hyd lift could be set up w/ one double action cyl pushing down on the land wheel spindle and hooked in series to a slightly smaller dia double action cylinder pushing down on the front furrow wheel spindle. By series, I mean the oil from the rod side of the first cyl goes to opposite side of the next smaller diameter cyl, then the oil from the rod side of the smaller one returns to the tractor. Depth is controlled by attaching clip on spacers of different thicknesses to the cyl rods to act as stops. I'm not sure but I think these cyl are set up w/ a check valve in the piston to bleed all the air out of all cyl in the circuit.Therefore the load ie: the implement weight has to be on the large side of the piston. On the big fold out implements there are normally 4 cyl and a bunch of hose, so there's a lot of air to get rid of when a repair is made.   I apologize if you already know all this, Samm. Just trying to make suggestions.                Hope this helps,                                       MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Nice work.When times get tough, they drag that stuff out of the weeds like it was gold, don't they?
Reply:I was sort of leaning to double cylindering it too.  It gets rid of all the mechanical stuff tying both axles together.I was thinking maybe single action cylinders tied into the existing lift arms on the backside of the long levers.  It's closest to the original design.  But the drawings show what appears to be a double acting cylinder.  It may be that gravity isn't enought to bring it down once it's up.  Maybe the upright shaft coming off the axle has considerable bind on it because of the forward motion against the wheel and shaft, and the side draft.  It might actually need a pull to get it back down.  There's gonna be a lot of force against that upright.  So single action cylinders are definitely out.  Gotta be doublesI think you're right on about the snap on depth collars.  I use them with my finishing discThe land axle shows cut marks where something was removed.  All bolt holes, and areas adjacent to open bolt holes show no wear.  No wallowing in the hole, and no wear mark against the angle iron.  No rusted areas of paint where something might have been.It's a stumperStill raining here, so I have a good day tomorrow to walk around it and REALLY look at it.You've been more help than you think.  At least it's some feedback.  Other ways of thinking.  I do appreciate it"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Maybe I'm missing something here, but can't you make this a 3 pt. hitch attachment?  It doesn't look all that big or heavy, so maybe that would be easier than making the wheels raise up/down.
Reply:Originally Posted by PookieNice work.When times get tough, they drag that stuff out of the weeds like it was gold, don't they?
Reply:Originally Posted by Road WarriorMaybe I'm missing something here, but can't you make this a 3 pt. hitch attachment?  It doesn't look all that big or heavy, so maybe that would be easier than making the wheels raise up/down.
Reply:Sam,Been a while since I've been around a "one way disc" (as we call 'em). You don't have to pick them up at the end of the field, you just turn LEFT and run with the disc, until your going back in the opposite way. To clean up all the looped ends, just pull it around the field perimeter doing right hand turns, carefull on the corners. To move from one field to the other, back up to trip the wheels which raised it up 4 - 6 inches. Massey-Harris, Co-op, Bantam made lots of these.
Reply:Samm, here's a link that shows a picture of an Angell disk plow.  Notice the linkage on the hitch to the left wheel.http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...WDK5XKMI-z2NwLLast edited by Road Warrior; 05-12-2009 at 02:27 AM.
Reply:THANKS Road WarrionrYour pic got me to looking in another manual I have for a Krause one way.  It had pics of the assembly, and pics of the parts layed out on the groundNow I GOTTA PLAN Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by alittle1Sam,Been a while since I've been around a "one way disc" (as we call 'em). You don't have to pick them up at the end of the field, you just turn LEFT and run with the disc, until your going back in the opposite way. To clean up all the looped ends, just pull it around the field perimeter doing right hand turns, carefull on the corners. To move from one field to the other, back up to trip the wheels which raised it up 4 - 6 inches. Massey-Harris, Co-op, Bantam made lots of these.
Reply:Samm, maybe the next project should be a 3 or 4 shank ripper or subsoiler to break up that hardpan.Maybe a 3PH so you could adjust the angle of the shanks.                        MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw