1/4" to 1/8" question

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 16:10:08 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for 1/4" to 1/8" question

I've got the 1/4" to 1/4" down, as well as 1/4" to 3/16" down.  Both welds look good, and both metals failed before the weld did.  I know that 1/8" is only 1/16" thinner than 3/16", but is there a worry about cutting too deep while welding 1/4" to 1/8".  The frame is about 1/8" and the notch is 1/4" wall.  I just dont want to cut too deep into the original metal and weaken the frames original strength.How can that be avoided?  Is it a mere wire speed adjustment?  Or travel speed issue?  Or is it better to adjust once I determine if its cutting too far?Also, wire is .035 Lincoln 211 Innershield wire.  No gas, obviously.  And the metal is mild steel.Last edited by bignick31985; 05-08-2007 at 06:39 PM.
Reply:Treat it like you would as if you're doing the same size to each other..Just concentrate the gun slightly on the heavier side..You should have no problem.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Cool man, I honestly never though of that believe it or not.I've been practicing so I can get this notch in so the bed can go back on.  Man am I ready!  Just need 2 more jackstands, another spool of wire and I'm set.  I'll post pics for sure.  Hopefully it'll all go down this weekend.
Reply:Originally Posted by bignick31985I've got the 1/4" to 1/4" down, as well as 1/4" to 3/16" down.  Both welds look good, and both metals failed before the weld did.  I know that 1/8" is only 1/16" thinner than 3/16", but is there a worry about cutting too deep while welding 1/4" to 1/8".  The frame is about 1/8" and the notch is 1/4" wall.  I just dont want to cut too deep into the original metal and weaken the frames original strength.How can that be avoided?  Is it a mere wire speed adjustment?  Or travel speed issue?  Or is it better to adjust once I determine if its cutting too far?Also, wire is .035 Lincoln 211 Innershield wire.  No gas, obviously.  And the metal is mild steel.
Reply:That is what I had to figure out to do to weld ~1/8" pipe to 3/8" flanges. Weld more on the thick piece and kindof "drag" the heat up onto the thinner stuff.
Reply:Cool, I started welding it today.  Got the passenger side notch done.  All the welds look nice except for the 2 that are vertical on the inside.  I'll have to get pics up soon.However, is there a way to avoid the bead clump when welding at a 50degree angle or so upwards?  I used the push method, but it still looks sorry, even though the metal had excellentvisual  penetration marks on the frame.  I know that a weld doesnt necessarily have to look great to be great.  But I was going to grind it down and re-do just those 2, but want to get it right.Can I just do a series of deep tacks?  Tack, tack, tack, move on, or turn wire speed up and travel faster?Lincoln Pro-Mig 175Harbor Freight cart and accessoriesAnd learning...
Reply:[This is the only area I wasnt satisfied with how it looked.  But you can see the penetration on it.Lincoln Pro-Mig 175Harbor Freight cart and accessoriesAnd learning...
Reply:Holy Crap Batman!!! Looks ok from here..I like the effort..Re-check every weld after your done..But keep it up..For what you have to work with..  ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:B.T.Y. ...2'nd pic down..Wrap the weld around the angle at least as far as you can down the other side...If possible wrap the whole thing.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by bignick31985Cool, I started welding it today.  Got the passenger side notch done.  All the welds look nice except for the 2 that are vertical on the inside.  I'll have to get pics up soon.However, is there a way to avoid the bead clump when welding at a 50degree angle or so upwards?  I used the push method, but it still looks sorry, even though the metal had excellentvisual  penetration marks on the frame.  I know that a weld doesnt necessarily have to look great to be great.  But I was going to grind it down and re-do just those 2, but want to get it right.Can I just do a series of deep tacks?  Tack, tack, tack, move on, or turn wire speed up and travel faster?
Reply:If this wasn't a vehicle frame I would keep my mouth shut but a few things need looked at. You didn't do much cleaning on the inside of the frame weld. You might have burned through the rust but I can't tell from these pics. Look at your second picture. The weld on the top side of the frame. It only about 50%-60% of the weld is stuck to the frame notch. If clean up the welds in the first pictue I think youd see the same thing. The welds in the 3rd pic look better. Did you bevel and leave a gap between the notch pieces where they are welded to each other? I'm not trying to flame but when you're modifying a vehicle frame you need this to be your best welding on every weld.  I really think you have some cold lap on some of these welds. It's not too late to fix this now.