This V6 manifold had a broked mounting ear, so I thought I would give it a try with the aluminum rods from harbor freight (the HTS-2000, DuraFix stuff). First I heated the manifold up, then concentrated on the ear part. I tinned the broken area. The crack went down where the bolt threads were, but there was enough to grab the bolt. I threaded in the bolt, with a large washer on both sides to make a form. I heated again, then started filling in the form. Took 1 1/2 sticks. After it cooled, I simply backed the bolt out. Instant threads! Then using a 60 grit flapper, then a 120 grit, I polished down the blob. The repair manual says to torque to 8-9 psi. I torqued it to 20 and it still held. Tell you what though, after this stuff cools, it's harder to grind than mild steel, and harder to drill.Here are some pics. My camera doesn't do well with close-ups, but you get the idea. Attached ImagesIt's not what you can buy, it's what you can build.
Reply:Nice fix!! but why torque to 20"FT-LB" if the book says 8 "FT-LB"??? lol at "psi" sorry bud im just a ball buster...
Reply:yeah, ft-lb, that's what I meant. I just wanted to test the mend. I didn't do it on the block, just with a nut and bolt.It's not what you can buy, it's what you can build.
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ooks like it should hold up fine. I have always wondered about that harbor freight stuff.......
Reply:Originally Posted by copperpotLooks like it should hold up fine. I have always wondered about that harbor freight stuff.......
Reply:Yeah harbor freight is good for cheap fixes but i try to stay away from there now, I like my tools to last.It all depends on the job though."My fingernails are melting"
Reply:Hey JC whatever it takes to fix it! Nice job!Flashhttp://flashracecarbodies.com
Reply:I repair a lot of those, along with the 3/4 pipe thread area (on v8's) when "mechanic" uses teflon tape and tightens untill BROKE! I usually tig weld but your repair seems sound. If the customer is a regular keep tabs and let us know how it holds over time. On the edge of a casting like that, I do not use preheat, but it never hurts!There is a Norton Gemni grinding wheel made for soft non-ferris grinding that beats the hell out of using flap wheels. The wheels used for steel load up and do not cut. Use die grinder and aluma burrs for tight areas.Nice RepairPeter
Reply:Thanks Peter. Yeah, the 60 grit flapper loaded up pretty fast. Might have to designate some disks/flappers as aluminum only, and have some for steel too.It's not what you can buy, it's what you can build.
