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Spot Welding Machine for My first turbo manifold...

Spot Welding Machine for My first turbo manifold...

Welding Automation for My first turbo manifold...

laser Welding Machine for My first turbo manifold...

Welding Automation for My first turbo manifold...

Welding Automation for My first turbo manifold...

Platform Spot Welding Machine for My first turbo manifold...

Platform Spot Welding Machine for My first turbo manifold...

My first turbo manifold...


Tue, 31 Aug 2021 09:13:48 GMT
My 3sgte turbo internal wastegate is leaking, and the RS/japspeed style tubular won't easily cope an external wg( all cramped as hell those 3sgte cars )... thus I chopped the manifold and start modify it to my own jerry-rig style... Now both turbo side/head side are almost done, awaiting to join back together... Honestly I think this may flow worse than stock. Only hope it could hold, pray to buddah as long as there's no leaking I'm content.A lot swear, cuss, and headache getting into tight corners...As a newbie I just found decent bevel is critical for full penentration
Reply:Tidy for your first go. My first go looked a bit like that and it worked fine. Should be better than any Japspeed manifold anyway.It's a turbo engine so honestly, as long as the runners aren't hopelessly undersized or kinked back on themselves, then the flow will be absolutely fine. As you've probably found out yourself, the wastegate positioning and routing is critical for proper control and preventing boost creep, and it looks spot on to me. A single WG would probably have done the job just fine, unless you're gonna run a tiny turbine housing/low boost...What size turbo are you putting on it? For this kind of effort, please say you're aiming for 400hp?Last edited by Munkul; 12-11-2019 at 04:11 AM.
Reply:Thanks for vote of confidence Munkul Actually it's only for stock toyota ct20b turbo which have difficulty pushing 300. Sounds silly but just enjoy a challenging DIY project, and gaining some experience aswell. I almost made it equal length, but run short on elbows so #2 runner ended 1 elbow shorterI also made a 3 inch side exit exhaust for the car, even without big power still expecting lotta fun lol
Reply:Originally Posted by RikanBKKThanks for vote of confidence Munkul Actually it's only for stock toyota ct20b turbo which have difficulty pushing 300. Sounds silly but just enjoy a challenging DIY project, and gaining some experience aswell. I almost made it equal length, but run short on elbows so #2 runner ended 1 elbow shorterI also made a 3 inch side exit exhaust for the car, even without big power still expecting lotta fun lol
Reply:How are you guys welding these things up?  Tacking, then finish welding?  One joint at a time, or all of them?I have to weld some flange stubs on my exhaust downpipe, and I'm not sure how to go about it.  I'm worried that if I just tack it, then pull it off to weld it, it's gonna move, and I'm right back where I started...…….with a deadly exhaust.I'm wondering if I should cut the pipe, where I can get to it to full weld it all around, weld the stub on the other end of the pipe where it attaches to the manifold, attach the thing fully bolted, then marry the pipe further down where I cut it to give access to the welder.  These stinking ford ball socket flanges are apparently a one time thing.  The tubing deforms to fit the ball, and once it's formed, it's permanent.....it's ruined for any kind of reinstall.  Kinda like a copper/brass compression fitting donut thingy.
Reply:After watching many youtube videos it seems to me the standard procedure is as:1. build jig, build collector2. test fit every runner(combination of tack and mask tape)3. break it down then weld individual runner4. refit to jig, re-tack, then weld runners to collector and head flange. (also could weld inside to seal and weld outside only for reinforce)Because I build this mani on a old one, so impractical for me to weld from head flange, have to weld from mid-runner. It took some planning of welding sequence. Simply chopping an old mani is already quite tricky(for a noob's first time), I built an adapter for my air cutoff to use large 4.5 inch wheels, which did most of the jobFor tacking I use tig spot mode(big current short burst), gives quite strong one-hand tacking, after several tacks it would stay firm. I tack one piece at a time, then finish a entire segment in one go(each runner split to 2 segments before final assembly as in pic #4). Also when welding flange you could weld in opposite direction to minimize warp
Reply:Finished. Some linishing and it'll go to the carTest fit before finish... To my relief clears everything. Only have to trim dipstick handle

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