Need help with Mig Spoolgun on Aluminum

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 15:53:34 GMT

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Hi,Longtime lurker, first time poster here.Anyway, I'm helping out a friend and need to weld some 5/16" aluminum (6061 I believe).  I've only welded aluminum with my tig (Syncrowave200) and thought I'd be better off using my Thermal Arc Fabricator 281 and spoolgun, because of the thickness of the material.Tonight was the first time I've really tried to use the spoolgun and the results were less than specactular.  I read a bunch of other posts tonight about spoolgun setup and I'm gonna give it another go tomorrow, but I was hoping I might get some specific tips.I'm running pure argon at ~25cfh, .30 5356 wire, and the settings are the recommended ones inside the cover.  Anyway, things aren't going well.  First of all, this thing spatters and sparks like armagedon and then my weld (if that's what you can call it) is covered in black soot.  I'm fairly proficient at mig welding steel and tried to use a similar procedure.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.On a side note.  I didn't think that the sync200 had the power to do the 5/16" and I've only have done up to 1/8" with it.  Would I be able to weld the 5/16" if I beveled the edges and ran multiple passes?  I still want to learn how to use the spoolgun, but I'm more comfortable with the tig at this pointThanks,Jordan Attached ImagesThermal Arc Fabricator 281Miller 350PMiller Syncrowave 200Lincoln ProCut-55Jackson NexGen
Reply:From what I can see, you need more heat.  Hold the gun close to the work and use a forehand (push) motion.  David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Try 4043 wire.  Good all around aluminum wire.   The wire in your gun is 5356, which is an aluminum/magnesium alloy.  This wire is good for items requiring high strength welds, or, those materials alloyed with magnesium (such as loading dock plates).Be sure your machine is set for DCRP.  Turn the heat up.Use a wire brush to remove the oxide layer on the tubing.  That oxide layer has a melting point of 3700 F.  Aluminum melts at 1200 F.  I use a die grinder with a wire wheel to take that layer off.  Much better welds.
Reply:Thanks for the help.I'll crank up the heat and really give it a good cleaning and see how things go. Later,JordanThermal Arc Fabricator 281Miller 350PMiller Syncrowave 200Lincoln ProCut-55Jackson NexGen
Reply:Originally Posted by jschulzeThanks for the help.I'll crank up the heat and really give it a good cleaning and see how things go. Later,Jordan
Reply:Take a look at this video.  It will explain alot about welding aluminum with a spoolgun.http://www.millerwelds.com/swf/flv/f...=320&h=240&v=8MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I just wanted to thank everybody for a replies.  I didn't get a chance to try again today, but I should have some time tomorrow to give it another whirl.  I'll post back with any results.Thermal Arc Fabricator 281Miller 350PMiller Syncrowave 200Lincoln ProCut-55Jackson NexGen
Reply:My experience with aluminum is run it hot and fast, get plenty of tips as you will go through a few before you get the right setting. good luckGuy_48Welding is an art......Millermatic 252Lincoln SP175PlusLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Suggest you test conductivity of the surface of the practice alum by using an ohmmeter lightly touching the probes to the surface.  If it's anodized, the surface will be non-conductive, and very difficult to maintain heat and maintain an arc.
Reply:You'll get much better results from 4043 and there is no need to preheat. You machine will get more than hot enough quickly. Every time I get that much black soot, I have contamination of one sort or another. Either bad gas, or a leak in the hose...something that is letting air or CO2 contaminate the weld. The lack of pinholes tells me it is a minor contmination. To find out or eliminate the gas flow issue, crank up the gas and weld. If it looks normal after cranking it up, you have a leak somewhere. If not...its something else.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:I would say crank your heat up and make sure your aluminum is good and clean. I have used a welder like that quite a bit and a couple of things I noticed it you have to aggressively oscillate the puddle to get a decent weld. Also aluminum does not like to be welded so turning up your feed and heat and having a fast travel speed seem to help.  Don't worry you will get the hang of it and be changing out wire spools every 5 minutes. I really wish my work would buy a push pull gun but I guess they figure its not broke so why fix it.
Reply:I find if the spoolgun has wire speed adjustment right on it, I tweak the arc length as I am welding.  Makes it much easier for me.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by DDA52You'll get much better results from 4043 and there is no need to preheat. You machine will get more than hot enough quickly. Every time I get that much black soot, I have contamination of one sort or another. Either bad gas, or a leak in the hose...something that is letting air or CO2 contaminate the weld. The lack of pinholes tells me it is a minor contmination. To find out or eliminate the gas flow issue, crank up the gas and weld. If it looks normal after cranking it up, you have a leak somewhere. If not...its something else.
Reply:200a??? Where are you getting that? A Thermal Arc Fabricator 281 is a 300a machine and can probably hit 350a easily if pushed. It can easily handle 5/16 as can a normal 210 class machine. Both of my 210 class machines can handle it as can my Esab 250+. Cold starts are normal for alu, so if you run it a lot, you know how to deal with it. As I said, with a 300a unit, there is absolutely NO need to preheat 5/16. Maybe you have to, but some of us can handle it without messing around with preheating.As to soot, yes, soot is normal, but not in the quantity he has in the pic. That is not normal. I simply gave him something to look at. I did not definitively say that atmos. contamination was his problem...but that is usually the case when I get it.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:Originally Posted by DDA52200a??? Where are you getting that? A Thermal Arc Fabricator 281 is a 300a machine and can probably hit 350a easily if pushed. It can easily handle 5/16 as can a normal 210 class machine. Both of my 210 class machines can handle it as can my Esab 250+. Cold starts are normal for alu, so if you run it a lot, you know how to deal with it. As I said, with a 300a unit, there is absolutely NO need to preheat 5/16. Maybe you have to, but some of us can handle it without messing around with preheating.As to soot, yes, soot is normal, but not in the quantity he has in the pic. That is not normal. I simply gave him something to look at. I did not definitively say that atmos. contamination was his problem...but that is usually the case when I get it.
Reply:if you drop the angle of the gun to closer to parallel with the weld most of the soot will go away.Have we all gone mad?