booger welds

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 15:34:07 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for booger welds

HelloI have some 1" thick recovery tabs that I need to weld to the rear bumper of my land cruiser. I have welded 1 tab on and I am working on the other tab. the first tab is the one that has been painted green (self etching primer in an attempt to keep rust off until I finish paint them, we had some weather recently).When I welded this tab, I used my MM175 w/ gas and .035 wire. Voltage was 9 and the wire speed was 7, which was what was recommended on the side panel of my welder. I did fill in a bevel and then did a second pass on the weld. One side, I see a bunch of boogers, the other I am seeing a bunch of porosity. I think the wind was too high and possibly had my gas flow rate set too high (I think it was 30-35cfm). I plan on grinding out the welds and trying again. I also have the other tab prepped and tacked on. I took pictures this time to show what I am doing to prep the weld surfaces and I also am showing some close up of the welds. This second one, I am doing with a Daytona MIG 110v welder (yeah, I know, I plan on doing multiple passes) using .035 flux core wire. I ground out about 1/4" on the tab at a 45 degree bevel. The Mig w/ flux core is set to '2' and 'high' and the wire speed is about 3/4 max rate. Anyhow, the Daytona mig seems to be putting down some decent welds. Constructive criticism is welcome.Thanks! Attached Images
Replyosting the rest of the pics. Attached Images
Reply:I did just smack the boogered up weld with a RBMFH and it didn't break off. Didn't move. Just put a dent in the tab...James AHP 200X TIGMillerMatic 175DaytonaMIG 135Chinese O/A
Replyon't take this the wrong way but.....1: ditch the 110 welder2: get some training either an actual school or someone who welds for a living 3: ditch the 110 welder4: practice first on something a bit less critical5: did I say ditch the 110 welder?6: the 'V' is doing nothing as you're bridging across the gap, there is no material getting to the bottom of the 'V'7: you're attempting to weld 1" plate to 3/16 or so plate, the 'V' is redundant, if there was a good fillett in there you'd pull a slug out of the bumper without a V.....Mike
Reply:Both machines are really too small to get decent welds on material 1" thick no matter how many passes you do on them. The MM175 would be the better of the two, and I'd set the machine to max on voltage. The MM175 is really a 3/16" rated machine under real world conditions. I'd also do more of a bevel myself on that.Besides the porosity issue because of the wind outside, it looks like you are doing this all out of position. If you don't have the skill to run solid welds overhead and vertical, I'd flip this and weld in the flat position because you'll need to run as hot as possible.If you have one, I'd probably recommend stick over mig for this application. a good 1/8" rod would be enough to get you much better weld penetration than what you will get with your mig. On 1" material, I'd be tempted to jump up to 5/16" rods and crank up the amps to really burn it in well.Chances are high if you use the small migs that you'd simply rip the pad eyes off the bumper if you really get the truck stuck solid, especially if you need to pull at any angle at all on those welds. Keep in mind when things like this let go under these types of pressures, things get broken really fast, and often there is little to no warning when they let go. That 1" hunk of steel flying back at someone will do some serious damage when things let go..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I would grind that stuff out and go over it with a 6010 and then cap it with 7018.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyDon't take this the wrong way but.....1: ditch the 110 welder2: get some training either an actual school or someone who welds for a living 3: ditch the 110 welder4: practice first on something a bit less critical5: did I say ditch the 110 welder?6: the 'V' is doing nothing as you're bridging across the gap, there is no material getting to the bottom of the 'V'7: you're attempting to weld 1" plate to 3/16 or so plate, the 'V' is redundant, if there was a good fillett in there you'd pull a slug out of the bumper without a V.....Mike
Reply:James, since you already have 230v for the MM 175, keep an eye out for a Lincoln tombstone or Miller thunderbolt to weld the heavy stuff with. I see them occasionally on craigslist up here. Check craigslist and KSL online classifieds in your area.                                          MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Get trained before you do this type of welding.You will hurt someone doing this type of welding wrong.I used to operate heavy equipment wreckers and when stuff breaks it becomes a projectile.One of the local guys here got a chain hook in the face in the last few years - he barely survived but I have plenty more stories that are worse.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I could be wrong but it looks like you moved real slow or did this big weave trying to do the whole root and fill with one pass. That's not the way to get something like that done. For a smaller mig that would be at least a three pass/bead affair. I've got a MM175 and wouldn't want to do those lugs with it but if I had to I'd do it with .030 wire and gas or .035 E71T-11 flux core. The flux core will get you more depth of fusion but the problem with .035 flux core is that you'll have a heck of a time getting enough fill to build the re-inforcement around something like that that you really need. BTW, if you go with flux core don't be using the E71T-G or GS. It's not rated for multi-pass no matter what the guy at the counter told ya. I tried and tried the .035 solid with my 175 and just never got to feeling good about it. Never really felt like I was getting good depth of fusion. Crank the wire speed up to get the amps and you'd lose your voltage and it would get all spluttery and the puddle would over run the arc before you could get burnt in, (on thick stuff). I always ended up going back to .030 solid or moving to the .035 T-11. I measured it ten different ways and 174 amps is max for that guy, and not for long at that. That's 174 amps at whatever the full load/machine moaning voltage is. Don't know for sure. Never measured that. Couldn't be much, maybe 18 to 20-ish at the most.Last edited by Sandy; 03-23-2013 at 11:56 PM."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Replyose the 110 welder. All they are good for is repairing spoons at your local Chinese buffet. The type of wire you are using will crack with multiple passes. Get someone who knows how to weld to clean that mess up and use some .072 232 or 233 inner shield or lo/hy rodSent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Reply:I'd say practice a lot... Or... Bring it to someone. If you brought it to me all ground clean and ready to weld, I would have put them both on for $20.[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:I like my 110 welder.What you want to do is beyond you at the moment and will be for some time. Absolutely no shame in that.
Reply:Originally Posted by LanseI'd say practice a lot... Or... Bring it to someone. If you brought it to me all ground clean and ready to weld, I would have put them both on for $20.
Reply:Originally Posted by LanseIf you brought it to me all ground clean and ready to weld, I would have put them both on for $20.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPNot to cut your throat Lanse, but I would do it for free! If it kept from killing him or someone else.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPNot to cut your throat Lanse, but I would do it for free! If it kept from killing him or someone else.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeFree and a jelly donut beats 20bux any day of the week
Reply:Is that a hammer I see you hiding behind your back there? What do intend to do with that when he grabs the doughnut by chance? .No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Trunk Monkey!  Good for any situation.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldtrunk monkey!  Good for any situation.
Reply:Thanks for the input!I've already started grinding out the welds. I've got the nasty boogery one mostly ground out. I am seeing that I did get some good fusion as I am unable to see any cracks and I have been smacking it with a hammer from time to time. After I get the tabs ground off and ready to go, I am going to get a pro help me with the welds. I've got a cargo rack project to do so I can practice better on that. so .023 is better for welding thicker stuff than .035 ?James AHP 200X TIGMillerMatic 175DaytonaMIG 135Chinese O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by tigerstripe40.023 is better for welding thicker stuff than .035 ?
Reply:The worm like ropey welds on that receive tube look very questionable to me too.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:A smack with a hammer aint even close to what strain you will get when a chain is hooked to it.Miller 252Miller Bobcat 225Lincoln MigPak 1801959 Hyster forkliftHarris OA torchBeing a jeeper, I don't like that style of shackle tab. I prefer the ones that are either "t" shaped that go from inside the bumper out, welded front and back, or one that fits in a hole in the bumper and welded front and back.Red lines=weldLast edited by Fnord5; 03-24-2013 at 07:39 PM.
Reply:I'm with you on having them go through the bumper as well.Definitely safer and that's how I welded stuff on wreckers.Having the piece only on the outside subjects the weld to repeated side loading.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:You'll see that a lot on anything for overhead lifting. Also see the holes beefed up too. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by DanNO, an .023 wire is best suited for sheet metal thicknesses. Consider 1/8" the maximum thickness for an .023 wire. Each wire diameter has a maximum amperage that it can output once this amperage is reached increasing the wire speed isn't going to increase the amperage. An .023 wire tops out some where around 140 amps. For your 175 an .030 diameter wire would be the best choice. The .030 wire won't top out amperage wise, and will have a higher current density (high energy arc) then the .035.At this point it's pretty obvious you lack the skill to properly attach (weld) the tabs to the bumper.
Reply:I had the tabs welded on by a pro. He used a MM180 and let me watch to show me how it is done with that sized welder. Coming back to this, I did some more welding this weekend on another part that is not as mission critical as the recovery tab. I was welding outside, using my MM175 w/ gas. I would get 1 in 3 welds that were not showing any porosity. I was wrapping myself and the welding area with a thick canvas tarp and waited for a lull in the wind before starting to weld.  If I got porosity, I'd grind out and start again. I am running a MM175 w/ .030 solid wire and Argon/CO2 MIG mix from AirGas @ 15-20cfhI suspect that there may be some carbonization with the gas port in the MIG gun and I am not getting consistant gas flow, causing the porosity.James AHP 200X TIGMillerMatic 175DaytonaMIG 135Chinese O/A
Reply:If most people mention a hitch or trailer project, some of you guys come unglued. Why is this different? I am surprised that some have even offered to put vertical welds on a receiver tube hitch frame, for free or not, I would not touch that for a $1000.00.I am guessing I missed something here, but don't have a clue what it is.That tube is constantly flexing when towing a trailer, whether you can see it or not, putting those welds on just made that hitch unusable as far as I am concerned.Full me in... What am I not seeing?ESAB Migmaster 250Ltec ST23 spoolgunMiller Passport
Reply:Originally Posted by tigerstripe40I suspect that there may be some carbonization with the gas port in the MIG gun and I am not getting consistant gas flow, causing the porosity.
Reply:Originally Posted by SLAGINSHOEIf most people mention a hitch or trailer project, some of you guys come unglued. Why is this different? I am surprised that some have even offered to put vertical welds on a receiver tube hitch frame, for free or not, I would not touch that for a $1000.00.I am guessing I missed something here, but don't have a clue what it is.That tube is constantly flexing when towing a trailer, whether you can see it or not, putting those welds on just made that hitch unusable as far as I am concerned.Full me in... What am I not seeing?
Reply:Originally Posted by mikecwikI thought it was recovery tabs on a bumper?
Reply:post one grind everything off
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadpost one grind everything off