A friend of mine has these "Edmund" Aluminum Heads for 1938-1948 Ford Flathead Engine.There are small surface cracks on the "Cast Aluminum" head. When you Unbolt them from the Engine, take them off and flip them around to look at the underside, then you will see small cracks at certain locations. My Question:How do I properly repair these cracks?Now, I am a B pressure welder with tickets in inconel, stainless, carbon, etc; everything for Tig, mig, arc welding, etc - And, I have all the Welding machines at home for this aluminum repair - The PROBLEM though, is that I am not 100% familiar with welding Aluminum heads. I do not know if they'll distort like crazy, or if the filler metal I use will lead to cracks when the head goes into operation; I do not know what will happen when I clean the head from all the comtaminating grease, oil and residue that had soaked into the aluminum over all its years of usage, and suddenly attempting the repair, my tig torch starts picking up contaminates and suddenly I am having to grind farther into the aluminum cast head to chase them. I've read about throwing the piece into an oven, then attempting the repair, or heat with tiger torch - I've read not to use 5356, but to use 4043; I cannot find what grade of aluminum it is and what filler metal to use with it. In other words, I am not familiar with the proper procedure for this specific aluminum head. Any advice? Thankyou .
Reply:Originally Posted by RazorA friend of mine has these "Edmund" Aluminum Heads for 1938-1948 Ford Flathead Engine.There are small surface cracks on the "Cast Aluminum" head. When you Unbolt them from the Engine, take them off and flip them around to look at the underside, then you will see small cracks at certain locations. My Question:How do I properly repair these cracks?Now, I am a B pressure welder with tickets in inconel, stainless, carbon, etc; everything for Tig, mig, arc welding, etc - And, I have all the Welding machines at home for this aluminum repair - The PROBLEM though, is that I am not 100% familiar with welding Aluminum heads. I do not know if they'll distort like crazy, or if the filler metal I use will lead to cracks when the head goes into operation; I do not know what will happen when I clean the head from all the comtaminating grease, oil and residue that had soaked into the aluminum over all its years of usage, and suddenly attempting the repair, my tig torch starts picking up contaminates and suddenly I am having to grind farther into the aluminum cast head to chase them. I've read about throwing the piece into an oven, then attempting the repair, or heat with tiger torch - I've read not to use 5356, but to use 4043; I cannot find what grade of aluminum it is and what filler metal to use with it. In other words, I am not familiar with the proper procedure for this specific aluminum head. Any advice? Thankyou .
Reply:i would also post over on the jalopy journal and see what some of those guys have to say.. there are many flathead ford specialists over there.. and to forewarn you, please introduce yourself and be decently polite that board isnt particularly friendly like welding web is.... i'm sure you'll get some good useful info.. jalopy journal is a a traditional hotrod forum, old cars only, no billet aluminum, no modern automobiles or motorcycles allowed.. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=5 heres a thread over there going over exactly what your experiencing http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad+head+repairtackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Here are 5 pictures; there are 3 more I need to load Attached Images
Reply:I will include a short description Attached Images
Reply:I should maybe get some dye-penetrant/developer.. The very first time I used that stuff was when I was a 2nd year apprentice, and that stuff is the absolute coolest stuff ive ever used! That and the smell of zip cuts that a Welder I use to be his helper to. Pic 1 - Repair the 'bubbling' air pockets within the Cast AluminumPic 2 - Same as Pic 1Pic 3 - Weld over Drill hole. Previous owner drilled hole to see how thick the aluminum was that he was working onPic 4 - Surface cracks.Pic 5 - Repair Gougespic 7 - What is that word when they take a worn part, and weld on it until it is back to spec, then they machine it? Buttering? lol cannot remember. Pic8 - Surface crack
Reply:Send it to member castweld. He's got the oven, experience and talent to fix it up good as new. If he can't fix it - it can't be fixed IMHO.Just one of the many examples of his work:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=50729MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:. . . and just a couple more:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...&highlight=bmwhttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ghlight=harleyMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:the problem your going to run into is these edmunds heads are known to be crap aluminum castings, not to mention the decades of contamination absorbed in the combustion chambers and water passages on top of that you have previous repairs... modern aluminum heads will be made of far better quality of aluminum ..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:I need to figure out what grade or series of aluminum the Edmund aluminum heads were made from;Also, I've been looking all over the net, and guys are in a debate between 4043, 5356 (mostly those two electrodes) or a356. I have 5356 at home here just as a plain jane practice on aluminum kind of hobbiest usage. But in temperage service, I've read that 5356 should be avoided. I am thinking that maybe I am just treating this too seriously, and maybe I should just treat it like plain old aluminum, and just weld it. Though, maybe get a356 or 4043.
Reply:from what ive read its a poor quality at best... i dont think they are even considered an actual grade..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Those look to have been welded before. Possibly many years ago. Look at the gas bubbles at one area, and the spark plug hole looks to have been filled at some point.4043 works very well in areas that don't have threads or valve seats that can fall out. Preheating is also a very good idea.Last edited by shovelon; 07-09-2011 at 06:43 PM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:What is the approx value of the heads as is? Obviously this set is low because of the cracks, I mean in good shape what does a pair go for? This might help U decide how to approach the problem. If they are worth $100 and ez to replace ok, thik it out and go for it. But if they are super rare and valuable then hmmm Duane+1for ex: Old Al 409 dual quad manifolds look cool, but MANY survived so they aren't worth much.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:a set in good running condition can be bought for about $400-$600 depending on shapeto add you can buy a brand new set of offenhausers for $600 from speedway motors.. but they arent old original vintage heads, so cool factor comes into play Last edited by brucer; 07-09-2011 at 06:44 PM.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Hey thanks for the great input, guys; and I liked those links from Duaneb55 - I'll use the preheat and post heat time and method from the links. Also, acquire some 4043 for the task.My friend likes the worn out/weathered look - or that vintage look they have. Its like those old Guitars guys have or Welding Masks guys have that are all worn out, the paints faded, aged, antique looking - And the car he is putting them into, isn't a barrett-jackson restoration project or a show car, but a nice older car he can cruise in from time to time, and not have to worry about any marks on the door, or where paint has faded from overtime, or wear spots.
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o yourself a favor and send them out to get dipped to remove as much of the old oil and carbon as possible. It won't effect the contaminants in the metal, but it will take care of a good bit of the surface crud..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I weld a lot of engine castings, from new to antique. The older the casting the more problems you will have. This is because the aluminum will oxidize with age. The layer is deeper according to age, grade of aluminum, and if it has been treated in any way. If the casting is thick enough to have some good aluminum it is repairable. If it is oxidized through, that area has to be ground out untill you hit good enough material to weld then plate or fill bad areas. Repairing heads that old is possible but is determined on a case by case basis. Arc it and see if you can from a puddle, if not grind untill you can. 4043 should be good for that application. Cracks should be cut out completely. Pre and postheat of 350 degrees will work. They will warp but can be straightened.PeterEquipment:2 old paws2 eyes (that don't look so good)1 bad back
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWDo yourself a favor and send them out to get dipped to remove as much of the old oil and carbon as possible. It won't effect the contaminants in the metal, but it will take care of a good bit of the surface crud.
