Choose of gantry crane

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 14:38:18 GMT

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Ok Guys and Gals. I am looking for some help. I am thinking ahead, 8-10 months, I hope to be putting up a little shop, and my discussion topic is Gantry Cranes. I have seen people with both rolling and full shop length. I have also seen jib cranes. What I am looking for is a little insight from y'all so I can decide which way the floor should be poured. Either with some thicker concrete for the posts or not. i will be doing some of everything, some auto body, heavy steel fab, light steal fab. So I would like to hear personal experiences. Thank You.GabeNothing is fool-proof, to the substantially talented fool!Help me, I can't drink all of this beer myself.
Reply:Thick to thin spots in a continuous pour is asking for cracks. Any time the thickness changes the concrete will have a tendency to crack. You can avoid this several ways. One keep the floor a continuous thickness and have separate footings under where you want the column supports. This will reduce but not eliminate the chance of cracking because the sub base may not give the same support the footing does. 2nd Pour the spots for the posts separate from the floor  ("diamonds") and put cuts or control joints between the spots to control where cracks occur. 3rd Pour the floor thick over the whole area. This works best for light to moderate loads where footings are not required. We'd frequently do this for things like where shop lifts might be installed later.We usually poured 3500psi crete and added fiber for all our pours. For drives and shop floors we usually poured 6" slabs, 8" in some that we knew would get heavy use. Often we would use 4g wire mat on 2" chairs and #4 bar if the sub soil was soft (river silt) on at least 6-10 inches of crushed stone. On harder sub soil we'd beat the snot out of it with the roller and use 4-6" of stone, wire and bar being optional. All slabs were saw cut usually into areas approx 10' x 10' to control cracking.For shops we also frequently laid radiant tube in the floor for heat. If so we laid the mats and chairs to tie the tube to. It's relatively cheap and easy to do and gives you a nice warm floor to work on in cold weather. You can heat it simply with a standard hot water heater, some RV antifreeze and a circulating pump.As far as which to get.. The travel crane would be the nicest, but most expensive. My buddy's got one in his shop and it's sweet. We made do with a small A hoist that we could roll around at my old place, but it was a real pain to move with a load on the uneven floors. I've also made use of a jib crane at another friends shop, but it's only good in one area. Works well if you have heavy loads that are usually always in the same area..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks DSW. I didn't mean that the floor itself would be thicker. i typed this up after an 18 hr day. I had meant to use the term footings.As I said this is the initial planning stage. Alot easier to plan for the future, than remake the past.Thanks for the input.Nothing is fool-proof, to the substantially talented fool!Help me, I can't drink all of this beer myself.
Reply:concerning the floor, not sure how much body work are you planning to do? but floor pots to hook either a pulling post to or a pull dozer, etc, can make pulling out major damage alot easier. more suited to backyard shops than a full frame machine.Later,RandyMiller 140Campbell Hausfield migVictor torch outfitBlue Point torch setSmith torch with vintage Airco regulatorsVictor type A torch setHobart pipelinerLincoln Ranger 9Lincoln 225 tombstone
Reply:Originally Posted by gdf_77Ok Guys and Gals. I am looking for some help. I am thinking ahead, 8-10 months, I hope to be putting up a little shop, and my discussion topic is Gantry Cranes. I have seen people with both rolling and full shop length. I have also seen jib cranes. What I am looking for is a little insight from y'all so I can decide which way the floor should be poured. Either with some thicker concrete for the posts or not. i will be doing some of everything, some auto body, heavy steel fab, light steal fab. So I would like to hear personal experiences. Thank You.Gabe
Reply:I have a 5 ton gantry crane at my job.Rolling it around is a huge PITA.Co-workers have jib cranes.Much easier to use.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:Also- I've been told that jib cranes were installed after the building was finished.Floor had to be cut out and large footingspoured.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:If I were building a new shop I'd like to have a rolling beam that spans the full width of the shop, or at least one full bay.  A rolling beam permits picking and setting a load anywhere on the floor.  I know two fellows who each have a rolling beam in their shops.  One is a single bay, 16 x 32, the other is two bays, 32 x 36.  The 16' beam rolls at the tug of a tag line, the 32' beam has an electric motor.  Both use an axel with a pinion engaging a rack on each end of the beam so both ends move in unison to prevent the beam from getting skewed on the wheel tracks.  Both arrangements can be fully operated by a single person.You will need to do some engineering to select a beam strong enough to properly support a point source load at least equal to the heaviest you intend to handle and you'll need to assure the beam tracks are adequately supported either from separate columns or by the building structure.A free-rolling gantrys take up space when not in use and can be a PITA to move about, especially with a hanging load and often require two or more persons handle safely.  But if not taller than the doorway or are adjustable in height they can be rolled outdoors and have no limits on positioning.  Nor do they require any additional engineering of the building.Jib cranes are limited by the length of the beam and the swing radius, though a rolling trolly hoist is handy.  A single post support requires a relatively large, perhaps even massive counterweight in the ground to keep it from tipping or leaning in time.  A jib secured to the wall or side frame of the building will need to be engineered  or limited in capacity to assure the structure can support the side stresses that will be applied when lifing a load at maximum radius.  The benefit of a jib is it is simple and can often be mounted near the edge of a door such that it can reach outside.My choice, if I had the opportunity at this time, would be a rolling beam. A bit more complicated to install but the versatility is as wide and as long as the floor area over which it rolls.  And it consumes no space to speak of when not in use.  You hardly even know it is there.- MondoLast edited by Mondo; 07-25-2010 at 12:40 PM.Reason: grammer, missing wordsMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:Thanks for all of the replies. I will be moving my current garage 22x24 roughly, and using that for my shop. A new 30x30 with 2nd floor will replace it, sounds easy right? Anyway, thanks again for the input, I think since it is going to be a small shop, that I will probably go with a rolling bridge. I just don't think I will have the room for a gantry.But all in all I still need to clear it with the Financial Officer of the House.Nothing is fool-proof, to the substantially talented fool!Help me, I can't drink all of this beer myself.