Railing layout questions?
Tue, 31 Aug 2021 14:23:27 GMT
I have a few questions on railing layout.1. When measuring for railing panels to go between sheetrock walls or wooden posts. Hows the best was to get a nice clean fit? I'd prefer not welding onsite if possible since it's indoors.2. How do you guys layout railing for stairs? I've used a digital protractor before but on long sections, if the protractor is off a little on degrees it causes a big problem.
Reply:Measure carefully. Use a laser tape measure. Be sure to calculate for out of plumb walls, be sure to allow for the walls being thicker at the corners due to the corner bead. As a general rule on stairs, I will usually weld the bottom rail and end posts on site, brace diagonally, then bring it to the shop. Just figure every tread is going to be marginally different. It is a pain, but it has been the only way I have found to make them accurate enough to not fight fitting problems. Little onesy twosy stairs I will just measure, but full flights always get jigged in the field.
Reply:I typically use a digital level and a 6 ft straight edge. Measure at several locations along the step and both sides. I also measure the rise, run and all nosing spacing. I have some type of calibrated wood working protractor that helps me transfer the pitch to my table. However, have tried several different methods...,posted a couple on WW a few yrs ago. Fabbing a part on site is a good way to go, time consuming, but worth it to be confident about your build.
Reply:Get a cheap CAD program like DeltaCAD. You can lay out your rise and run measurements for each stair as well as total rise and total run, if something's not right it will be immediately apparent. We take our rise measurements using a laser and use a level and tape measure for the total run. Sometimes we fab on site but we regularly build complete stuff and go install it without issue.Last edited by Sharon Needles; 11-04-2015 at 02:12 AM.
Reply:It really depends on so many things. Along with variations across the sheetrock, there can also be variations along the floor, so it's good to have an idea of where any baseplates might be. It really is crazy how quickly small variations can add up.When I can, I just template the space. Ever see how counter top guys template with strips of luan or 1/4" ply? I can usually get an incredibly tight fit this way. Also when possible I leave a few key points to be TIG welded onsite. It's slower, but when minimized it's faster not having to set up for hot work, i.e. no spatter. Remember that no matter how much survey work you do, numbers aren't real things. You can make something that's mathematically perfect, but you gotta set it down on someone else's work at some point... and they probably didn't do a good job.
Reply:You can purchase or fab sleeves/brackets, they will allow adjustment to fit between the wall. You can also place a post at the wall, then you only have to attach to the wall at the top. If you are early enough in the process then put your rails up before the drywall is finished... Or before drywall is installed. You might have to be a good saleman to pull off the latter. Just tell them it looks modern.You can attach bracket with screws or rivits to eliminate welding. Though much of the time when working inside rails are going to be in sections and I find welding easier than fabbing brackets for a variety of profiles . Make sure there is or will be a nailer behind the drywall before accepting the job.Last edited by tapwelder; 11-04-2015 at 05:54 PM.
Reply:Hello PFD402, as to welding aspects of inside railings. When I am faced with that sort of scenario is when I breakout my 110/220 inverter tig and use it. Almost no sparks and very good control of where the weld metal is going, aesthetically pleasing as well. Since most internal railings require little welding the time/process differences are generally minimal. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderYou can purchase or fab sleeves/brackets, they will allow adjustment to fit between the wall. You can also place a post at the wall, then you only have to attach to the wall at the top. If you are early enough in the process then put your rails up before the drywall is finished... Or before drywall is installed. You might have to be a good saleman to pull off the latter. Just tell them it looks modern.You can attach bracket with screws or rivits to eliminate welding. Though much of the time when working inside rails are going to be in sections and I find welding easier than fabbing brackets for a variety of profiles . Make sure there is or will be a nailer behind the drywall before accepting the job.
Reply:Yes, preferably something large enough as to allow you to position the rails appropriately.
Reply:Originally Posted by outdoortWhat do u mean a "nailer"? Regular 2x4 studs or something like that?
Reply:Thanks for all the replies! It will defiantly help.
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