1963 Idealarc 250 AC/DC
Tue, 31 Aug 2021 14:05:36 GMT
I've had a little Lincoln wirefeed Procore 125 for two months or so, but my brother has been borrowing it for a while and other than testing it when I initially bought it, I've yet to lay down a single bead with it. I bought it to do around the house type stuff as well as make mobile bases for all of my woodworking machines. I know I want to make a trailer soon, so I've been on the lookout for a decent buzzbox on craigslist. A gentleman put up an "old welding machine" ad, and from the picture I could see that it was an old round top Idealarc 250 AC/DC. A quick google search led me to papaharley's recent thread on his restoration, and that sealed the deal for me and I gave the man a call. I checked it out last night and all the parts that should move do, and no switches looked burned out. It was dusty inside, but no parts look corroded or burned. I couldn't plug it in due to the power cord having recently been installed on something else at the guys house, but he showed me some of the things he had welded and came across as honest and trustworth. I paid the $100 he was asking and his nephew helped me lift it into the back of a delivery van I had borrowed. I usually try to "negotiate" on craigslist buys, but this seemed to be a more than fair price.The leads seem to be in used but very good condition and the Tweco rod holder and 300 amp brass ground clamp looked to be almost brand new.So, here I am with $225 invested in two welders, and have never used either I've read all the threads on the Idealarc that showed up in a site:weldingweb.com search, and I plan on taking the Idealarc completely apart and cleaning it up to brand new condition. I'd like to get new face plates either printed or ordered, so if anyone has tips or resources for that I'd be very thankful.It looks about just like papaharley's did in the before pics, so I'll get some auto primer and paint and repaint it and wetsand/buff it. I've needed an excuse to by a good hvlp spray gun I know next to nothing about welding but am anxious to learn. If anyone can provide me with either tips or links for the following, that'd be great:1. Comprehensive "how-to" stick welding info - how to set the machine properly, rod types, rod diameters, no-no's, etc.2. Ideal arc faceplate info3. user manual? Model 250-250, Code 6686, Serial No. AC-2648304. Modifications that would make things easier, smoother, etc. I'd like to add power factor capacitors from what I hear, but don't know any more than that... 5. Tell me anything else I might not know. They say that what you know can be dangerous, but it's what you don't know that will probably end up killing you one day....I'll take some pics and post tomorrow after I figure out a way to get this behemoth out of the van by myself.... (no shop crane...)Thanks for the help and what has already been a fantastic community
Reply:Wow Good Score - only a $100 for old round top Idealarc 250 AC/DC!I've got a manual in pdf format that I can email to you. Send me a PM (Private Message) with your email adr and I'll send the manual to you.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:An old Welding Web adage goes like this; You suck. But don't bother with the power factor capacitors. At this stage, you don't have any use for them.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Ben,Good score! Post your location in your profile so that folks here can direct you to resources local to you. I think I know the welder you got if it was on DFW CL. I couldn't see well enough in the picture to know if it was AC or AC/DC.Using your model and code number, you can download a manual from Lincoln's web site. If your face plates are the same as mine, I can help with getting replacements done.You might want to hold off on the PF capacitor mod. It will make the thing suck a lot of juice while it's idling.Congrats,PapaLast edited by papaharley03; 09-11-2011 at 06:30 AM.Lincoln Idealarc 250 (circa 1962)Lincoln Weldpak 155 w/Mig KitLincoln Squarewave TIG 175
Reply:Ben,Thanks for the PM. I emailed you the manual.I agree with what Papa said - stay away from the Power Correction factor capacitors.Yes, they drive down the power used while you are burning rod...at full output from 86 to 64 amps but in the meantime they drive the idle current up from 6 to 23 amps! That's almost 6,000 watts of heat at idle... same as running four 1500 watt heaters! Your call but I'd pass on those!Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:So If I install the power factor capacitors only in the winter, can I just flip the switch and use the welder to heat my garage?! It seems that the consensus is pretty solid that I should stay away from the PF caps. I just checked my email - thanks for so much information Rick. I really appreciate explanations that not only provide the "what", but the "why" also, and yours was very helpful. A 50 amp circuit seems a lot better of an option than a 100 amp Still haven't gotten this thing outta the van
Reply:Originally Posted by Ben325eStill haven't gotten this thing outta the van
Reply:use a furniture dolly rock to one side slide onto ( heave Ho) up ya go down a ramp or slide down pipes used as ramp get the buds to help for beer0h 0h 0h got idea 2-4 guys a long pipe and do it the 2 guys on stick carrying and dead deerLast edited by prop-doctor; 09-11-2011 at 03:34 PM.idealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Haha, a hickory pole served us well in the dead deer method getting it in the van, but ever since then my leg has been killing me. I was rear-ended up in Massachusetts last week and my sciatic nerve is killing me enough to make it hard to even walk.But, ahem (
Reply:Sorry to hear that Ben. A cherry picker comes in handy for me. I managed an Idealarc just fine with it. Maybe you could beg, borrow, or rent one. Yeah, head room in a van is tight. Sheet of plywood on some 4x4's? Kiddie slide from the park? Yoda! Attached ImagesCity of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Here's a few pics:From Idealarc 250 AC/DCFrom Idealarc 250 AC/DCFrom Idealarc 250 AC/DCFrom Idealarc 250 AC/DCFrom Idealarc 250 AC/DC
Reply:You did good. Your machine looks almost new on the inside. Mine looked much worse. I would concentrate on the exterior only at this point. Heck, your pointer isn't even bent. She just needs some serious TLC on the skin and face plates.ASAP, get some power cord. I suggest SOOW 6 gauge. Once you power it on, find out if it welds. Check all three positions of the polarity switch. If you have and know how to use a multimeter, put it in DC volts with no welding leads attached, and then measure the output from the studs. It should read about the same voltage when you go from DC + to DC - on the switch. DO NOT change the switch with power on.. shut it off during switch change. If it puts out DC, chances are pretty good that the AC output will be fine since that's what the DC is derived from, but heck, put the meter on AC volts and check it anyway. At least you'll know what the correct values are if you have a problem later on.Good luck... great score!Papap.s. That black wire running from the capacitor to the polarity switch is a resistor wire. It has a set resistance. Don't replace it if it looks bad, with just any old piece of wire. Lincoln has those if you need one and they aren't very expensive.Lincoln Idealarc 250 (circa 1962)Lincoln Weldpak 155 w/Mig KitLincoln Squarewave TIG 175
Reply:Thanks for the tip about the resistor wire - I wouldn't have known.The pointer on this machine is plastic. I read in one of your posts that yours was metal. Mine has been disconnected somehow, but that should be an easy fix. I've got a multimeter, and clamp meter, so I'll definitely give it a thorough check. It's got the old style diodes. I hope they still work, but if not, no biggie. Thanks for the help,BenPost script: To preclude further assumptions in regards to my manhood: I got it out of the van myself. Well, myself and a few 4x4 posts.....
Reply:The plastic pointers are known to jam if not kept greased. When they jam. The pointer arm get bent and the pivot pin on the front panel/Fixed a lot of these. Just unbolt the polarity switch, take the wires off the weld terminals,take crank wheel off. unbolt front cover and slide front off polarity switch handle.Use small socket and extension to straighten pivot pin. assemble and test pointer arm and pointer and make sure it moves with out binding. Grease every thing that slide in the pointer assembly and the retrace your steps to put front back on. Turn crank and make sure it still works right. Be careful not to crank all the way to the stops. The older welders will sill bind up near the stops.Should be able to still get most of the parts for this welder. except the diodes. The polarity switch may need a kit if it is bad.
Reply:Thanks ccawgc - I appreciate your help. If the diodes are bad I'll swap out to the new style diodes, and the polarity switch seems okay, thanks for your help.
Reply:Thats a great deal you got on that,,wait till you weld with it!! Smoothest arc welder Iv ever used...Esab Multimaster 260Esab Caddy160IEsab 161 STLESAB powercut 650Esab 220i tigLincoln Precision Tig 225Lincoln IdealArc 250INE SKYLINE 1500Klutch 140iMEASURE TWICE IS FOR MORONS
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