New to me

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 09:05:39 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for New to me

I just purchased a Thunderbolt 225V.  I have not done any stick welding but I have a MIG wire welder and long ago was taught OXY Acetylene.  To make sure all is OK inside the 225V I thought I'd clean it out, change the input wires and lube the current slide.  I removed the crank handle and cotter pin so that I could remove the hand wheel hub.  Well it is not coming off.My question is, is this hub screwed into the control shaft or is it just rusted due to its age.  If its age, any ideas on a method of removal.  I've started with some PB Blaster placed in the small hole in the center of the hub.I've invested $100 in this device.  Looking at the manuals on the Miller site, this appears to be from around 1974.  I hope I did not throw my money away.Thanks for any help and allowing me to join this group.Regards,wings515
Reply:There a lot manuals for welder on the internet.It simple welder and may not need a manual.Please post photosDave Originally Posted by wings515I just purchased a Thunderbolt 225V.  I have not done any stick welding but I have a MIG wire welder and long ago was taught OXY Acetylene.  To make sure all is OK inside the 225V I thought I'd clean it out, change the input wires and lube the current slide.  I removed the crank handle and cotter pin so that I could remove the hand wheel hub.  Well it is not coming off.My question is, is this hub screwed into the control shaft or is it just rusted due to its age.  If its age, any ideas on a method of removal.  I've started with some PB Blaster placed in the small hole in the center of the hub.I've invested $100 in this device.  Looking at the manuals on the Miller site, this appears to be from around 1974.  I hope I did not throw my money away.Thanks for any help and allowing me to join this group.Regards,wings515
Reply:If that is a 1974 model and it has a brass screw on the crank. you will not want to remove it. There is a trick to it. To grease the slides. Just remove the handle and the case. Crank it all the way up and grease what you can get to. wipe it thin. Then crank it up and down.The lead screw is trapped in the shunt(the plastic U with iron plates that you move) by a metal collar. the collar has a set screw to lock it to the lead screw.It is accessed through a hole in the back panel. You will need a long Allen wrench. Have changed a lot of those lead screws. just undo the allen and screw the lead screw out. but you do not move the collar or allen screw. Then just screw a new one back in and tighten collar back on. If you loose the collar or it moves it adds a lot of time to the repair. So be careful .New thunder bolts use a plastic screw that comes out the front of the welder. old ones come out the top.
Reply:This does not have a brass screw on the crank.  It has a cotter pin which I removed.  The cover can not be removed until this hand crank hub is removed from the adjustment shaft.I    I hope the pictures came through.Regards,wings515