I have 100 rivets to remove. They are in a truck frame, 9/16 D x 1/2" or 3/4" long. They are hard enough to not drill easily. An efficient way to remove is needed. So far I've drilled them 3/8 diameter to the thickness of the frame, then use a 1/2" bit to drill just to the frame. I can then use a punch to pop them through ripping the head off in the process. It is a slow process, and it's difficult to stay exactly centered with the drilled hole. Some take quite a beating punching them. I've tried grinding the head off, and punching them out, that seems to expand the rivet to be even tighter in its hole. If I grind the head off, then heat it red hot with a small oxy/acet tip it swells, then shrinks when it cools, that will take forever. What is the best way?WillieAn optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
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o you have a plasma cutter. I have done similar with one. Aim shoot and blast it away. Finish off with hammer and punch.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:How about grinding (or washing) the head off and then piercing thru the center of the rivet with an O/A torch (or plasma) , let cool off, and then use punch and hammer. When you pierce thru the rivet just circle the torch around to remove as much of the center of it as you can with out getting into the parent metal around the drilled hole. Another thought...instead of punch and hammer is there any way to use a small hydraulic porta power to push them out? Maybe build some kind of simple tooling that would hook over the frame rail for the ram to work against?
Reply:Ive always used a TEK screw to drill out a rivet but they were soft 1/8' rivets. This link has tools for removing rivets but I havnt tried them. https://www.yardstore.com/installati...et-accessories
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BI have 100 rivets to remove. They are in a truck frame, 9/16 D x 1/2" or 3/4" long. They are hard enough to not drill easily. An efficient way to remove is needed. So far I've drilled them 3/8 diameter to the thickness of the frame, then use a 1/2" bit to drill just to the frame. I can then use a punch to pop them through ripping the head off in the process. It is a slow process, and it's difficult to stay exactly centered with the drilled hole. Some take quite a beating punching them. I've tried grinding the head off, and punching them out, that seems to expand the rivet to be even tighter in its hole. If I grind the head off, then heat it red hot with a small oxy/acet tip it swells, then shrinks when it cools, that will take forever. What is the best way?Willie
Reply:I've removed thousands over the years. Drilled holes thru, blown a hole thru with a torch and used an air arc. You need to get a hole thru them to remove, like you mentioned. Air arc with a 5/32 or 3/16" carbon works the best.
Reply:i removed rivets by burning one head that was easiest accessible then using an air-powered tool called a helldog or rivet buster to push out the remaining rivet. the rivet buster is a specialized tool so maybe a smaller electric demolition chipping tool could substitute.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Rivet buster!
Reply:Here is type of tip I have use the side is flat to get closer so tip just cuts the head offDaveHF 170 welderHF 4x6 band sawSouth Bend 9NMillB&D mag drillVictor torch
Reply:Taking the head of with the oxy acet and good dead blow hammer and punch to drive them out. Those big solid rivets are a pain. When they crush in they really lock into the metal they are going through. Haven't messed with them but maybe once I remember and they were tough to remove. 100 of them, ugh !!Not much different than grinding them off and driving out though and you mentioned that was pretty tough. One of those things where you get to about the 95th one and you will be really good at it.Last edited by danielplace; 05-21-2018 at 11:37 AM.
Reply:I removed the ones on the Land Cruncher with O/A. Not enough control with the plasma. I guess it took 1/2 an hour for eight and clean up. Pack a lunch for 100. Once you get to sixty you'll be fast and accurate. Then you wont do it again for ten years...lol
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robably be helpful to know what you intend to do with the truck frame after you remove the rivets.Rivets are in conical holes, so you need either drill the rivet to provide for it to collapse or sacrifice the holes. Drilling is simple if you use a drill bushing that sits on the rivet head and keeps the drill centered. Drill in 2 steps, 1/4 followed by 1/16 smaller than the rivet diameter. You only need to drill to the depth to the second frame member. Then pop the rivet free with a small air hammer and punch or hand punch. That technique will save your hole if you're going to rivet the frame back together. If you're going to bolt the frame back together you need to upsize the bolts and ream the hole to get rid of the tapered hole.
Reply:100 of them in an efficient manner? Only efficient way is a 19 year old kid with more muscle than sense I'm no expert, I've only use oxy/ace, drills and air chisel (for the punch)I liked oxy/ace because the head came off fast, but sometimes left gouge marks and punching was still difficult.I liked grinding because it was controlled - but a little drilling was still needed to relieve the pressure in the hole.I tried flat facing the rivet with the grinder, center punch, drill to the depth of the head, knock head off with hammer. That worked about as good as the other methods.I don't think I ever decided which I liked best - they all sucked Too bad I don't live near you, in about another week I'll be looking for summer work Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Have you tried C4 yet?
Reply:IF, you have enough room & the head is not within the c-section of the frame you might try hitting the edge with a chisel to create a seat or flat & then using a small portable band saw (might put some abuse on the frame
Reply:Frame gets shortened 10"An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Torch about a dozen heads off. Then go to the first one and punch them out after cooling. Too many hits and they get tighter.My name's not Jim....
Reply:if you want to go old school and low tech and you have a strong helper there's always the B&O and a ten pound sledge.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:I have used an air chisel on both a 51 Willys and 46 Ford. Used a chisel bit to remove heads, then switch to a punch style bit to knock the remains out. And yes, I have tried O/A, grinder, and drill but none work as good or as quickly as the air chisel.
Reply:Cut an "X" in the head with a cutting wheel on a grinder, then use a cold chisel or air chisel to remove the quadrants of the head and then punch them out.IMPEACH BIDEN!NRA LIFE MEMBERUNITWELD 175 AMP 3 IN1 DCMIDSTATES 300 AMP AC MACHINEGOD HELP AMERICA!Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.We didnt pass it to our children in the bloodstream".RONALD REAGAN
Reply:what caveman said. have done that way on truck frames to remove spring hanger brackets.
Reply:Originally Posted by CAVEMANNCut an "X" in the head with a cutting wheel on a grinder, then use a cold chisel or air chisel to remove the quadrants of the head and then punch them out.
Reply:All this sounds like good advice - "X head" but when your on your back and doing any of this, it gets old very fast. Hope this is not you. If your standing and the body is off the frame exposing the frame, then the going is MUCH easier. Bob
Reply:No body, but some are under.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:How 'bout a mag drill with a endmill remove the head Or appropriately sized annular to trim the river head.Are they critical? Can you cut larger holes? Can it be welded?Originally Posted by tapwelderHow 'bout a mag drill with a endmill remove the head Or appropriately sized annular to trim the river head.Are they critical? Can you cut larger holes? Can it be welded?
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BI don't have a mag drill, but will get one if this is the missing tool. Center punched drilling the rivet head tends to wander.
Reply:The bent tip comes in propane, acetylene and Mapp gasAll three works greatDaveSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320A using TapatalkHF 170 welderHF 4x6 band sawSouth Bend 9NMillB&D mag drillVictor torch
Reply:Originally Posted by smithdoorWhen I was removing rivets the mag drill was a lot slowerThe torch using a bent tip flat bottom was very fast I had lot of rivets and found the fastest and it easy to move torch Even today I have a bent tipDaveSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320A using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by danielplaceNeat, never knew they made those. http://weldfabulous.com/victor-rivet...gas-0330-0341/
Reply:I don't know if a mag drill would hold well enough for an end mill.IMPEACH BIDEN!NRA LIFE MEMBERUNITWELD 175 AMP 3 IN1 DCMIDSTATES 300 AMP AC MACHINEGOD HELP AMERICA!Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.We didnt pass it to our children in the bloodstream".RONALD REAGAN
Reply:Originally Posted by CAVEMANNI don't know if a mag drill would hold well enough for an end mill.
Reply:Just man up and drag one of these babies out.
Reply:First I cut the head off then I used carbon arc rod in an air arc. Roughly the same size as you have. Mainly punch a hole through. Let them cool. Then use a punch larger than the hole. It’s not fun at all but it worked. The carbon arc rods need to be absolutely dry. We had a drying over right next to the job. They were very hot so use heavy gloves.You need to go straight in on the rivet so to don’t gouge the frame. That carbon arc is ruthless and noisy. It uses lots of air.I’d do a set up piercings to get the setup right.
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h by the way, if you do use an air chisel, use the long barrel version instead of the short barrel. long hits harder
Reply:You talked earlier about drilling them out I had a bunch once and drilled them with 3/8 bit plugged welded them shut with some wire let them cool and punched them out .
Reply:Originally Posted by LeoglYou talked earlier about drilling them out I had a bunch once and drilled them with 3/8 bit plugged welded them shut with some wire let them cool and punched them out .
Reply:2 ways, Cave Man's X cut works well, use angle grinder or die grinder with thin kerf wheel, snap head off with chisel or air chisel. Heat head of rivet red hot , just rivet and dump ice water on it, it will get brittle, hit it with chisel and large , no BFH. Wear safety glasses. once head is off I find the best way to drive them out is with and iron workers tapered Pin drift and and 8 Lb sledge. depending on your skill with the BFH, usually 2 hits and that rivet is flying"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:Swinging that eight pounder gets old real quick!! Bob
