So I am putting up a fence, A friend of mine stopped over while is was working, His comment was "Really'', Not sure how the rest of the world does it but a tri stand will hold just about anything. Made all my own brackets out of the 2''*1/8 angle that's under the truck, haven't figured out how to weld any part of this project yet but I am trying!!trailblazer 325 efi excelSlugger sawMiller 12vs Miller 135hypertherm45xpLincoln Sp 200 Lincoln Idealarc 250 Ac/ Dchougen and Milwaukee magstrailblazer 250g "1987"HTP aluminum feeder ahp alpha 200dangerous amount of tools
Reply:Yea... caught myself clamping 2x10's in the bench vise so I could cut some holes in it. Old habits die hard.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Are you pruning that 4x4 with the Stihl saw?.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Get a wood welder."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:That's bar stock, Pop, not tubing. Don't you know anything?!!
Reply:Well I see why, you have a Bobcat. You need a TRAIL BLAZER for that.
Reply:would love a new 325, but that bobcat just keeps going, the stihl saw was to cut the driveway that was in the way of the posts.
Reply:A budget welder would replace the spool in his HF 110V with Gorilla glue...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Hobart cutting/welding torch.MM252, and nothing else. My first welder. Buy once, cry once....but I really would like a nice 50/60A circuit to run it at full strength.A bunch of ideas, and not enough time and money to bring them to life.
Reply:You talk about the wood being easy to cut. I'm building a ramp to deal with 2 different levels in my shop floor, and in my great wisdom decided that it would be much cheaper to use up that old pile of prehistoric fir 2x10's than to buy that light cracked up treated lumber. Due to the incline, I'm cutting lots of steep angles, and some them need to be ripped end to end. Thought I could just set the right angle on my 220v radial arm saw and run them through. 20 circuit breaker flips later I gave up on that. Tried the Skil saw but the blade isn't deep enough to make it to the bottom and it was in danger of going up in smoke as well. Thought I was going to teach it a lesson and use the chainsaw. Alternating between 2 machines (they got hot too) and sharpening the chains every 8 inches isn't much faster than the recip saw, and the occasional rusted off nail adds to the excitement. Next step might be to train a beaver to gnaw along the dotted line. Or maybe have a wiener roast and go buy the ugly treated lumber.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by whtbaronY Tried the Skil saw but the blade isn't deep enough to make it to the bottom and it was in danger of going up in smoke as well.
Reply:Because I need to cut diagonally through the 2x10 from end to end, I would actually need about 14" of exposed blade. Assuming there's at least 3" in the center you can't use, then we're talking a 36" diameter blade. Short of going to a sawmill, I might be forced to do a Plan B on the design. Heat buildup in the blade is a huge problem with a long cut like this since it's impossible to keep things straight when the blade goes wonky. Looks like I destroyed a chainsaw chain on the first 4 feet. I've got about 20 ft to go.Last edited by whtbaron; 07-30-2016 at 11:30 AM.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Rough cut what you can, then mill it. I had to do that to make a custom threshold last year. I got a piece of 10/4 oak and cut it as much diagonally on my band saw as I could. Then I took it and temporarily attached it to a piece of 3/4" plywood and shimmed the "thin" end until it was at the height I wanted. Then I ran it multiple times thru the 12" planer taking off a bit each time until I was pretty close.When I did ramps at my moms after she lost her leg and was in a wheel chair, I did most of the ramp with the boards turned the other way. The final transition that I couldn't do with 3/4" plywood, I did using a piece of 1/4" alum diamond plate, and I sanded the last 1/4" down to deal with that step..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:May be easier to jack hammer the floor out ,put whole piece wood in where needed ,repour floor
Reply:Bandsaw?---Meltedmetal
Reply:Band saw is in the middle of a very long list of things I still want/need/crave, but it would be the obvious choice . Some kind of a sliding track fixture to clamp the wood in at any angle wood be cool too. For this time I just changed the design. I'm running 2 2x10's the length of the ramp ( about 22 1/2 ft) with the top one beveled and then I cut a 2x4 on it's edge to make the bottom bevel. A little steeper at the bottom edge than I wanted but it will do for now. Eventually I'd like to cover it with checkerplate since it's the only structure in the shop that isn't covered in metal or concrete so I might actually weld up something for support at the bottom edge. Have I completely succeeded in running this post off it's rails yet?? I'm not sure if they still make water putty, but I was thinking of mixing some of that up to fill the gaps, old nail holes and flaws in the used lumber... unless somebody has a better suggestion?Last edited by whtbaron; 07-30-2016 at 09:01 PM.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by Bls repairMay be easier to jack hammer the floor out ,put whole piece wood in where needed ,repour floor
Reply:Sounds like you have a plan in mind. Two things come to mind are there any bandsaw mills near you who could make the cuts for you. Have you considered one of these http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestr...nsaw-Sawmills/ I was under the impression that there is a special chain for ripping that might outlast regular saw chain.http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.ax...=ripping+chain Maybe for the next one.---Meltedmetal
Reply:I guess even a derailment is better with pics, so here we go... as I said, Plan A involved cutting the petrified 2x10 almost corner to corner to make the proper incline. This led to a couple problems .... a) the cut was almost impossible to make with what I had on hand (Skil saw, radial arm saw, recip saw, chain saw... hand saw?? No f'n way) and b) it didn't leave enough material in the middle of the board where it was transitioning from the concrete to the wooden ramp, and was subject to cracking in the middle of the board. As you can see, the plan was to use a 2x6 as a spacer between the 2 2x10's. Attached Images250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply
lan B was to fill in the bottom with 2 2x6's, but I liked the strength of the old 2x10's (they are old enough to be big thick brutes) and the bottom edge was too short and abrupt for a nice transition. Plan C was to use 1 2x10's, but to make the bottom wedge out of a 2x4. Much easier to cut, but it's still a little more abrupt than I would like. The bad thing about old fir is that it forces you to use screws since nails will just split it. The good thing about old fir is that it forces you to use screws, so if I ever get the metal checkerplate to cover it, it's no big deal to unscrew the bottom edge and make something else... possibly metal wedges. The new concrete in the foreground was run on top of what was formerly my dry sow barn. It now has 14 ft 6" walls and a 20 ft insulated rollup door and heating tubes in the concrete. Because the barn was built in 3 stages I have some uneven levels to contend with, hence the 22 1/2 ft ramp up to what was formerly the farrowing barn. It had gutters and concrete penning cast into the floor, so the surface is very uneven. When I'm done, it will only have a 7 ft ceiling in that area ( I know, but I'm only 5'9" so I don't care) so that's where the work benches and storage shelves will go. Hopefully it will also have both a welding and a soldering bench, as well as a bathroom (hence the plumbing roughins ). My son in law runs his own concrete business so hopefully we'll get new concrete in the 2nd part before the snow flies.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by MeltedmetalSounds like you have a plan in mind. Two things come to mind are there any bandsaw mills near you who could make the cuts for you. Have you considered one of these http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestr...nsaw-Sawmills/ I was under the impression that there is a special chain for ripping that might outlast regular saw chain.http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.ax...=ripping+chain Maybe for the next one.
Reply:Maybe you could have cut a 2"deep x 4" wide notch in the floor and made the ramp out of concrete with a textured surface so it is not slippery.---Meltedmetal
Reply:See answer to BLS repair above... that's over 22 ft of jackhammering high grade concrete complete with steel and heating tubes. Because the new concrete is only 3" thick in places (like where the raised walkways were before) I can't do any drilling into it without making sure I'm missing the heat tubes.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Maybe you've already done this but before you cover the heating tubes in the next piece stretch a long tape measure from wall to wall and photograph it so in case you might have to drill into it you will have a general idea where the tubes are.---Meltedmetal
Reply:That's a good idea and I might use it this time, but it seems to me that those tubes can move around quite a bit when the truck is snorting out concrete. Close only works in horseshoes and hand grenades... I'm not sure that would give me the confidence to start drilling. I'm going to try to put pulls, pipes, threaded rods in where I'll need them before the pour, but you know how that goes 2 yrs down the road too. Once the system is up and running I should be able to find the tubes with an infrared thermometer.Last edited by whtbaron; 08-02-2016 at 11:32 PM.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLesI'm not sure how you did your radiant tubing. We always tied ours to wire mats to keep it located. Tied to the mats, things really didn't move much. We did the same tape measure trick. we'd measure to known reference points like columns, slab edges etc that can be located easily later. Knowing that offset, it was fairly easy to determine roughly where the tube runs were as they were tied every other row, or 12" on center on the mats. Good over all picts helped confirm any "odd" changes in the tube layout.Known areas where we'd have things, we'd usually leave clear. For example in the one basement, we knew we'd eventually move the stair case, and need to install two new columns. the footings were poured when we preped the slab, and we deliberately made sure the tube runs didn't go over those footings, so we could anchor the columns. We also changed spacing of the tube where we were pretty sure the walls would need to be anchored. In that locating we skipped one tube run, so there was 24" between tubes in that area. Layout and overall picts confirmed we were in the "blank" area later when we knew the exact wall location after the stairs went in..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:No wire matting, just rebar, so we tied to the rebars as we went. Probably do it the same way again but I'll keep better track of where they are.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
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