Don't get too excited. No pics yet. I managed to trade some work for materials and would like to start my dozer blade for my Bobcat M-371 this weekend. I'm looking for input on features/size.My bobcat is currently 34 1/4" wide outside the tires. I am almost done with my 3/4" wheel spacers. So I should end up with 35 3/4" finished width. I measured by laying 2x4s up against the tires and then measuring between them.I don't want to make the blade too wide because I'm not sure the Bobcat could push it through hard dirt or a pile. I'm thinking 36-38" with bolt on wings for snow use.I decided not to make it pivot side to side because I think it would just push the Bobcat sideways.I do however want to have it adjustable forward and back to change the digging angle of the blade without changing the height (I want the arms to be all the way down with all four tires on the ground).I want to mount tines/scarifiers across the top so when you put the blade face down the points are in the dirt.I am having trouble deciding how tall to make it. Maybe 14-16" ?I don't know how much of a curve to give it. Maybe copy an atv blade? My neighbor has one.Can't decide whether to bolt or weld the cutting edge on. Welding is faster/easier, but I will have to cut it off when replacement time comes. Bolting will require design considerations to be made concerning the bottom edge.I have 3/16" steel for the moldboard (?) and 3/8"x3" grader blade for the cutting edge.I have 1/4" steel for the quick attach. I have DOM and stressproof for the pivots and plenty of 2x3x1/8" or 1x2x1/8" or 1x3x1/8" tubing for the frame.The Bobcat is very light on the front end. Am I going to have to add weights to the blade for it to dig? How far out from the quick attach do I want it? What am I missing?I haven't used a blade on a skid steer before so I would appreciate any input from someone that has. The rest of you can chime in too.Last edited by Boostinjdm; 04-30-2011 at 01:43 AM.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Will it angle? Make it so that at the most severe angle the foot print is just wider than the tires. You'll want it so any dirt being pushed plus sluff back to clear the tires. I' guessing you'll be close to 4 feet?"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:No, it won't angle. I said that in the first post. I don't think this skid loader is big enough or heavy enough on the front end.Like I said, it won't angle, but if it did I would have to go a minimum of 42" wide. At 42" I could angle it 30 degrees, which seems standard, and it would give me a 36" foot print. I figured that out early on.I'm trying to nail down specifics now so I can start cutting material.My name's not Jim....
Reply:I do however want to have it adjustable forward and back to change the digging angle of the blade without changing the height (I want the arms to be all the way down with all four tires on the ground).
Reply:I think ultimately, you will be limited by how light of a machine you have. What I mean is, don't expect too much out of it, especially in hard material.The bolt on cutting edge is the best way to go, but it does depend on how much use it will see. If you just tinker around with it, and push some snow, it may not be worth the hassle. At work, my guys can have one (on a bucket) ground down to nothing in a month, if we are working full tilt.(milled asphalt surface) For us,bolt on is the only way to fly.I know you have ruled out the angle, but as an operator, I think that is one of the best features of a blade... I know, it's a little skid. I'd consider a strong center pivot, and a pinnable link for angle. You don't have to use it, but you might really like it...dunno...Isn't the forward/back adjustment just a function of how much or little you curl? Maybe I don't read you right. I would set it so that when you are curled all the way back, the cutting edge is layed back pretty far, and then "dump" the blade to your preferred angle of attack.For strength, mount should be as close as reasonable, I think you may have to wait and see on the weight. There is a reason that dozers are big and heavy.(Refer back to my first comment)Good luck, and keep us posted.
Reply:I use my Bobcat to plow 2 miles of gravel road for snow with and without the angle it would be far less useful. I had trouble with pushing until I added chains to the rear wheels - made it a whole new machine. You may be correct in not angling for dirt, but for snow it is a MUST have.To setup the angle you just want to use a hitch pin through a semi-cicle behind the blade - manual adjustments keep it simple but strong enough to survive.For the cutting edge, you might consider hard surfacing a mild steel edge since the machine is small. If you are not using it for extensive ground contact you might get away with it - if it wears to fast you can always add a hardened edge. When you do that I recommend bolts - this machine is not likely to develop enough force to sheer them.Plan on adding plastic to the top to deflect snow and prevent it from running over the top of the blade. Landscape plastic works great, is cheap and replaceable - just bolt it on.The blade needs to be slick for snow - especially for lighter machines. You will want to have a smooth surface to let it slide off - otherwise you end up dragging a bunch of caked on ice (been there).You will need to be able to weight the blade down if you want to cut surface ice, otherwise it will just skip.For snow plowing you also really MUST be able to tilt the blade to adjust the angle of attack. This is where the skid steer shines over truck mounted plows - the combination of easily adjusting height and angle of attack while I plow makes it possible to clear gravel drives with little to no damage to the gravel. Trucks tend to push a lot of gravel off with the snow.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:As far as moving dirt I'd build it like a U-dozer. I think a straight blade moving dirt will tend to make a lot of "corduroy" which can get awfully frustrating. I don't recall ever seeing a dozer on a bobcat, probably for this reason. MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:They do make dozer blades for skid-steers, and I've done repairs to a couple of Thomas brand ones because they broke out the brackets for the adjustable top link while being used at high-speed as a snow-plow and hitting something solid like a curb. According to my customer who owns these, I think you'll be underwhelmed at the amount of work it'll be able to do. Even pushing brush piles around can be dicey because of how close the operator is to the blade. Smoothing a gravel road as long as the material is all loose, is about as much as it'll do. You'll probably be backdragging for that anyway, and a bucket would be just as good.It would be a fun project though. I'd probably make one myself if I had the machine, just because I could.
Reply:Angling is a 'must have' feature. It makes snow clearing much easier. The other thing is the blade must be on some sort of trip spring system. I clear snow in the winter and the company has lots of equipment. I was using a regular bucket one day and hit a concrete joint. I stomach was sore for 2 days where the operator bar hit my gut. I hit another joint one day with the angle blade and it just folded under and nothing really happened. We use Kwik-Way at work.
Reply:Check out the mini-excavators as they have a small dozer blade to push the dirt back in after digging a trench. This blade rarely gets used for that purpose it does work well to help stabilize the machine."Liberalism is a mental disorder" Dr. Savage
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikey use an adjustable top link from a 3pt hitchThat's what I had in mind.I'd go higher by another 6", at 14" you're gonna get spoil coming back overI'm not sure the skid will push that much dirt. Snow maybe.An atv blade is a bit too flat, the more curl (within reason) will cause the spoil to curl back on itself rather than go over ythe topOK For sure but no biggie, go with a good heavy unequal leg angle, long leg down, that'll give you a good surface to drill and the opposite leg will give you forward/aft strength as well as a surface to weld your framework/attachment to.I also had that idea last night and even have a piece of angle I think will work. Good, by the time you get that rolled or bent whichever way you go it'll add strengthGoing to add ribs too.seems narrow, you're not ging to have much edge hanging below the actual moldboardAbout 1 1/4" hanging below the unequal length angle Doesn't have power down or you're concerned the machine lifting up?The machine is so light I can bounce it and pivot it around by pushing on it. I've done that to square it up on the trailer. As close as practicalI would think that if it was too close it might skip over a lot. And I thought I read somebody saying that with the blade farther out, you get a flatter graded surface due to the longer footprint. Like a road grader....I'd go look at a manufactured one and get some ideas....Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmAs close as practicalI would think that if it was too close it might skip over a lot. And I thought I read somebody saying that with the blade farther out, you get a flatter graded surface due to the longer footprint. Like a road grader....
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI have looked at a lot of manufactured ones, but they are all for big machines. I haven't found any for a little one like mine.
Reply:as a long time equipment operator in the army, I dont think you are going to be able to do genuine dozing with a bobcat - moving stockpiles, knocking down berms, clearing and grubbing, From reading this whole thread, any push work I think you may try and do will be greatly enhanced with a 6 way blade.Graders can adjust the curl/angle of attack on the blade, but they are no replacement for a genuine dozer. Make the blade tall enough to keep the spoils from coming over the top. That will jack up any work you are trying to do. Especially if you plan to push into brush piles or trees. I was almost very much no bull**** killed as a young private by pushing into a log pile when the ROPS was off the machine. My hand and the steering brake handles took the brunt of the blow.The scarifiers are an OK idea. The old army JD 230G had the scarifier in front of the blade. Nowdays seems all the scarifiers are in the back as rippers. Ive never delved into the design change, but I speculate it was for reason.Weldanpower 225 G7Ironworkers Local #24
Reply:Ran out of time to read all the answers to your post, so I apologize for any redundancies......Definately a bolt on wear edge, I'm thinking like a bed knife from a jacobsen f10 gang mower.or similar, that would be about the right size , uses countersunk screws. If you are worried about the bobcat being too light in the front end , ie, blade and bobcat not digging in , maybe a ballast tank across the top of the blade would help. A 3 foot long 6" wide pipe with endcaps welded on and a bung on the top , a drain at the bottom. You could even make it out of pvc and experiment to find the right amount of weight then make a steel tank and weld it on. At least it would be adjustable. Damned twypos suck huh.Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by Boostinjdm[B]As close as practicalI would think that if it was too close it might skip over a lot. And I thought I read somebody saying that with the blade farther out, you get a flatter graded surface due to the longer footprint. Like a road grader....
Reply:I thought I would try to make myself clear here. I don't want you guys thinking I've got unreasonable expectations.I will not be doing hard work like rolling up established sod. I mostly want the blade for loose material like fresh gravel, dirt, etc. and snow.I will not be plowing long lanes. All three of my drives are less than 50'x20'.By skipping, I meant mostly during start and stops. My bobcat is driven by clutches not a hydrostat. It gets extremely jumpy without a bucket and only marginally better with a bucket. Placing the blade out a little farther (maybe 12" from quick attach to moldboard) might help with that as opposed to having it mounted directly to the quick attach.I've got at least two side dumps worth of gravel I would like to spread this week. That will be the blades first job. I can spread and back drag with the bucket pretty well, but when set up on edge the bucket flexes and gives me a washboard effect. I'm hoping a dozer type blade would fix that.My name's not Jim....
Reply:I don't like to sound negative, Boost, but I think that's going to be a real challenge spreading gravel w/ a dozer on the bobcat. It's going to be difficult controlling the corduroy or as some catskinners call it, "heartbeats". MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Hears my .02 worth. When I worked for cat I used a 287 with a dozer blad a few times. I loved it! But I had to keep in mind is wasnt a dozer. Im used to 9 and 10's from when I lived in coal country, so the skid steer was a real chalange for me, with the short tracks and running by the seat of your pants. I was VERY impressed with the way it worked once I got used to it. I cut several slot ditches about 3 ft deep and maybe 30 ft long in this hard red clay down here. I still liked a bucket better than a blade. Im wondering why your bucket is flexing, too thin? I use a tooth bucket for everyting. I often hear people say you cant clean asphault up with a tooth bucket. Thats cause they dont have any operatios. I can run equipment like you guys can run a bead, with your eyes closed. If I built a blade Id wanna have it angle, even if it were like the old g modle 7's that you had to do manualy. Good luck and post us some pics no mater what you do. Attached Images
Reply:Got to agree with the other operators. When spreading dirt with skidsteers, buckets will walk all over the blades. I also had a chance to demo a blade on a cat 277B, working base grade for an apartment complex parking lot. It lasted less than a day, went right back to the bucket. I didn't even want to try to get the hang of it. When pushing and spreading dirt with skidsteers, you can use the weight of the material in the bucket to apply down pressure on the tires increasing traction while still maintaining grade. Putting a blade on, you will lose that ability. Track driven skids like the cats don't suffer as bad, but you'll be spinning holes with tires. Now about plowing snow, build a blade, or modify one from an atv. As long as it angles left or right, you can windrow the snow off.
Reply:the machine you are using is way too light to do any kind of dozering. .. bigger machines with steel tracks (I had an 863 with Logering tracks) and it did quite well. at minimum u need a blade that is heavy to the some weight on the front. Too bad u are not close to me I have some cut out sections of 2 ft diameter pipe about 4 ft wide and a foot tall 3/8 thick that would make a great blade for your machine...Tiger Sales: AHP Distributor www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P, Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma. For Sale: Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun. Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by Vince_oIm wondering why your bucket is flexing, too thin?
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpaw at minimum u need a blade that is heavy to the some weight on the front.
Reply:Home grownIm with you, Rubber tires and lots of weight make for nice holes in the yard. When I was delivering rental equip for cat and hertz, I cant tell you how many people think that they can make a level yard by watching the home and garden channel! And do it all in 30 min with comercials!
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmBucket, arms, quick attach. The combination of all three flexing a little causes them to load up and then jump. When I have the cutting edge pointed straight down trying to scrape a bit.I figure with the dozer blade pushing directly on the chasis (arms all the way down) this part of my problem would go away.Originally Posted by BoostinjdmWould it make you guys happy if I quit calling it a dozer blade and labeled it a super heavy duty, multipurpose, snow plow instead?
Reply:It has begun..... Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
Reply
ooks good so far. You can always add a ruber flap on top or a expanded metal screen. You are right to want it all the way down for pushing. It is eaiser on pins and bushings. You know your machine some here would have you make it 8' wide with hyd tilt ,angle etc. I like your idea for removable wings for snow. Possbily make at least one angle ahead thant way snow goes to one side not both.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:I decided to throw in the angle feature even though I don't think the machine will handle it. It will have three settings. Straight, 30 degrees right, and 30 degrees left.My name's not Jim....
Reply:...hmmm, needs to be wider - about 8 feet... I kid, I kid. I will be watching this, though, for reference when we get around to putting a dozer blade on my friend's Gehl.
Reply:If it's gonna push snow do you plan on putting some shoes on it? MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I like how you formed both halves... but you missed a perfect opportunity to justify a wider press brake Looks great.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI decided to throw in the angle feature even though I don't think the machine will handle it. It will have three settings. Straight, 30 degrees right, and 30 degrees left.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhire but you missed a perfect opportunity to justify a wider press brake Looks great.
Reply:could always add some grease zerks for good measure.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Originally Posted by farmshopcould always add some grease zerks for good measure.
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusIf it's gonna push snow do you plan on putting some shoes on it? Mike
Reply:I managed to solve my long pin dilemma.Progress has been slow due to several repair jobs showing up. Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
Reply:Two piece pin should work if it doesnt seeze together.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Originally Posted by farmshopTwo piece pin should work if it doesnt seeze together.
Reply:Just a thought why not step it out a bit to clear the outer tabs instead of 2 piece pin?Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:Originally Posted by dumb as a stumpJust a thought why not step it out a bit to clear the outer tabs instead of 2 piece pin?
Reply:Nothing like going to the trouble of making a drawing, using the DRO to get within half a thou, and then watching the holesaw wobble all over the place. I think I need to make a good arbor for the holesaw, and finish up with a boring head on the next project.Two and a half hours to draw in CAD, layout with a caliper and scribe, cut out with the jigsaw, set up in the mill, and make some holes. Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by Mick120Maybe a lil CNC plasma table on the way mate....????
Reply
ooks like you caught the table a couple of times. I picked up a few anular cutters for my mill this past winter when I needed to "drill" some 1" holes for the plow rebuild. Absolutely LOVE them compared to hole saws..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWLooks like you caught the table a couple of times.
Reply:Originally Posted by kb0thnI think those are just the slugs that fell out!
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW I picked up a few anular cutters for my mill this past winter when I needed to "drill" some 1" holes for the plow rebuild. Absolutely LOVE them compared to hole saws.
Reply:Made some bushings for those angle plates. No egg shaped pin holes for me....Faced off to correct length. Cut shoulder to fit holes. Reamed to size. Chamfered. I managed to make all 12 of them in a couple hours and maintained a +/- .002" tolerance on all dimensions except the hole chamfer (eyeballed). Love having the lathe handy. Attached ImagesLast edited by Boostinjdm; 05-18-2011 at 12:14 AM.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Made a few more holes today. This time I got to use my new hole saw arbor. Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
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