I have a 12" skillet Revereware , best tool I have for frying chicken. The handle is spot welded to the side of the skillet and the welds on 1 side have come undone. I have nothing to lose if I try to tig it back together. Revereware service says they have never been able to weld these together but I believe they were sticking it. They also can't say what type of material it is made of. How can I figure out what kind of material it is. I am assuming that it is stainless
Reply:I have used a spot (pinch) welder to put handles back on skillets, but the cooler way would be to rivet it.Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:Figure if one is broken the other welds are either ready to break or partly broken already.Revere made a lot of copper cored sandwich pans, so you might be contending with a nightmare if it's copper cored at the weld point.Drill, ream and rivet.Remember the pan full of hot whatever will land on you if the handle breaks completely free.
Reply:Originally Posted by Virgil5Remember the pan full of hot whatever will land on you if the handle breaks completely free.
Reply:rivets sounds good. Better than trying to weld copper clad material. I will look for a small stainless rivet. How to seal the holes while riveting?
Reply:Originally Posted by akpolarisrivets sounds good. Better than trying to weld copper clad material. I will look for a small stainless rivet. How to seal the holes while riveting?
Reply:How's yer head ?Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:UMMMMM- ya ever heard they riveted ship hulls 100 years back & they didn't leak?How about a company called Wearever who riveted steel handles onto aluminum pans for years?Did you miss Ream the eefin hole in the correct direction?Hole gets reamed larger on the pan side. When the rivet is beaten to final shape it seals the hole..
Reply:I wouldn't rivet it or silicone it.We have something similar and the riveted handle constantly weeps oil.I'd assume it's 18-8Read the website and see if the advertising tells you what alloy.
Reply:Get yourself a cast iron skillet...fry up that chicken and chicken fried steak real good...good for the gravy tooSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProLast edited by bellaireroad; 09-13-2018 at 10:35 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Virgil5...Revere made a lot of copper cored sandwich pans, so you might be contending with a nightmare if it's copper cored at the weld point...
Reply:Originally Posted by Virgil5UMMMMM- ya ever heard they riveted ship hulls 100 years back & they didn't leak?How about .... riveted steel handles onto aluminum pans for year..
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1How's yer head ?
Reply
efinitely 3 small spot welds on each side/ear of handle. How could I isolate and back purge the back side of the weld area? It isn't penetrating the inside of the pan Originally Posted by rlitmanRevereware pans are copper clad. The copper is on the outside (applied via plating), and only on the bottom running up around the corner. You're thinking of AllClad, which has aluminum cores that may run all the way up the sides.Older Reverware (I have some with the "
rocess Patent" stamping on the underside), from IIRC before 1969 had a thick copper layer that was about 1/3 the thickness of the pan. Later Revereware was much thinner, with the copper being mostly cosmetic, and I'd say not worth repairing.The copper on Revereware never runs high enough to reach where the handle was spot welded on (and they're all spot welded that I know of). I think you could easily drill out the spot weld and TIG weld the handle back on. You'll need to shield the back side (interior) of the pan though to prevent sugaring, or else you'll permanently get rust spots when you wash the interior. I'm not so sure I'd trust SolarFlux on a food contact surface, or else that might be an option.AllClad pans have riveted handles. But these are proprietary rivets that have an aluminum core and a stainless cap facing the pan's interior. I don't know where you'd get one of these, or how you'd set one.
Reply:If the weld isnt penetrating, then perhaps shielding isnt needed. Just turn the amps a little higher than normal, and be really quick about it.
Reply:I had the handle pop off my 12" revere copper bottomed frying pan as well a number of years ago. I spot welded it back on, and brazed the joint with 56% silver brazing alloy. Buffed out nice and has been sturdy ever since.
Reply:Originally Posted by makoman1860I had the handle pop off my 12" revere copper bottomed frying pan as well a number of years ago. I spot welded it back on, and brazed the joint with 56% silver brazing alloy. Buffed out nice and has been sturdy ever since.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitmanGood point! Silver solder is likely stronger than the original spot weld, and doesn't run the same risk of destroying the stainless for lack of a back shield.Silver solder is probably unsafe on the food contact side, but is fine for a handle on the outside.
