1962 Hobart ADI-364 foot pedal adaptation

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 09:01:39 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for 1962 Hobart ADI-364 foot pedal adaptation

Hello,I am about to purchase a Hobart ADI-364 AC/DC stick/tig machine. I am looking for a foot pedal. I have found a manual online but the part number doesn't help. The input receptacles for remote control are a 3 prong and 2 prong. I'm not sure about the ohm resistance required. Does anyone know if the foot pedal from a TR-250 would be usable (Part number:362668)? or if I could use a miller RFC-32a pedal?Thanks for the helps guys.
Reply:Originally Posted by Campbell45Hello,I am about to purchase a Hobart ADI-364 AC/DC stick/tig machine. I am looking for a foot pedal. I have found a manual online but the part number doesn't help. The input receptacles for remote control are a 3 prong and 2 prong. I'm not sure about the ohm resistance required. Does anyone know if the foot pedal from a TR-250 would be usable (Part number:362668)? or if I could use a miller RFC-32a pedal?Thanks for the helps guys.
Reply:Allhand,Thanks for the response. I mistyped on the miller pedal I referred to - I meant miller RFC-23a but I don't think that will work anyway. I've posted this question on the Hobart forums and got one response that believes (but not sure) the pedal had a 25 watt 75 ohm rheostat in it. Speaking with SCC controls, they do not make a pedal for this machine and expect it to use high wattage rheostats due to its age. Hobart, Miller, and Thermal Arc are not sure what pedal should be used. Does anyone know by inspecting the machine's internal rheostat what rheostat should be used for a pedal?Thanks again
Reply:From memory the Hobart machines of that era had a vacuum tube device under the removable top cover, as I recall, in the left corner closest to you if you're standing in front of the machine.  The foot pedal was a tin box about the size of a shoebox.  If that's the machine I may have a foot control for it.  As I recall the pot in the box is a linear pot maybe 5 or 10 watts made by Ohmite.If that's the control you're after I can do some digging and hopefully find it.
Reply:Virgil,I’ve attached a photo of what I believe the pedal would look like. It has a 2 pin and 3 pin connector. If you have one that’d be great!
Reply:Also thats what the welder looks likeLast edited by Campbell45; 12-06-2018 at 04:56 PM.
Reply:The footpedal pictured is not one I have.It resembles a P&H pedal and housing.If it can be accessed to photograph the bottom with the cover removed so the variable resistor can be seen there might be a better shot at getting information.A second way of getting the resistance and wattage would be opening the machine and deriving the information from the panel mounted rheostat there.I have a bad feeling this machine may use a very high wattage rheostat for fine control.
Reply:[ATTACH=CONFIG]1695162[/ATTACHHere are pics of my foot pedal for my Hobart TG-301. As you can see it is the same type that most of the older welding units use. Also are the pics of the size comparisons and the back of the foot pedal opened up to see how it is assembled. This model foot pedal is a #1411 and has a 25w .32amp ohmmeter rheostat.
Reply:Virgil and Allhand,Thanks again for the information and pictures. I had assumed until now Hobart used gears instead of millers slide rheostat (resistor?) pedal design.So Virgil, if I understand you correctly, I can open the machine up and find out it's internal fine-adjustment rheostat ratings. Thinking out loud, that would make sense as the the machine has a switch for local and remote. The remote rheostat should be the same as the welders internal rheostat, yes?  It seems finding an original pedal will be rather difficult. Perhaps if I can figure out the ratings, I can make my own pedal. Unfortunately, this will most likely be a high amperage rheostat.Last edited by Campbell45; 12-06-2018 at 08:47 PM.
Replyets not panic just quite yet.As my cat says there is more than 1 way to skin a mouse, and till I hunt up and eyeball the one I have I'm 97.49765% sure Hobart Bros (the real company) made a design change to get away from the cast pedal and box.  Someplace in the back of my dusty file system I half recall the mechanism inside the tin box being similar to the one pictured, but I ain't sure.At least we now know the value of the rheostat, and that's half of the battle.
Reply:Originally Posted by Campbell45Virgil and Allhand,Thanks again for the information and pictures. I had assumed until now Hobart used gears instead of millers slide rheostat (resistor?) pedal design.So Virgil, if I understand you correctly, I can open the machine up and find out it's internal fine-adjustment rheostat ratings. Thinking out loud, that would make sense as the the machine has a switch for local and remote. The remote rheostat should be the same as the welders internal rheostat, yes?  It seems finding an original pedal will be rather difficult. Perhaps if I can figure out the ratings, I can make my own pedal. Unfortunately, this will most likely be a high amperage rheostat.
Reply:Thank you for the help guys. I will try to figure out the rheostat ratings and continue to look for an original foot pedal
Reply:As I recall the center of the steering wheel thing is more of a ditch box setup than a foot pedal.  Never played with one myself so I ain't gonna hazard a guess.I think Slob has one with the ditch box, and he may be able to help you with that idea.  Suggest you PM Slob.The trick to the foot pedal is getting about 60° of pedal travel to amplify itself to 260° of rotation on the rheostat.  That was accomplished by the gears, but that is tough to replicate unless you're a machinist.
Reply:So I took the fine adjustment off and inspected the rheostat. It is a ohmite model L, 75ohm. If I take a look at the ohmite website, all model L's are 150 watts and they are kinda big - 4" diameter.So now that I know this, all I need to do is put this into my foot pedal correct?Last edited by Campbell45; 12-18-2018 at 09:12 PM.
Reply:From the appearance of the way the windings are on your Rheostat, this appears a lot like the way the P&H 300 Tig foot pedal rheostat windings are. They are  wound wide in the front to a more narrow tapered winding in a (4-Stepped) succession like this rheostat. Very Similar.
Reply:So I was able to find out that the original pedal was made by Arctrol. I know P&H had these same brand of pedals. However I dont know what model I need or what kind of ratings the stepped-resistor (rheostat?) was used.Does anyone know of anyone I could contact to find more info? Hobart, Miller, Thermal Arc do not have any info on these old machines.Last edited by Campbell45; 12-22-2018 at 09:53 AM.