How to remove oil coating from metal?????

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 09:44:30 GMT

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I have about 200 pieces of half inch square tubing, 16 gauge, pre-primed. Im using it to make the vertical pieces on that porch rail I'm building. I have over 200 pieces and they're covered with this thin film of some kind of clear oil. What would be the easiest way to get that stuff off? Would dishwashing soap get it off? Or would I have to use something messy like paint thinner or mineral spirits.-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Are you welding any of it?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Yes it'll be welded to the horizontal pieces. Se the thread "need help with project." My main concern is being able to paint it.-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:There are lots of industrial degreasers, acetone, MEK, alcohol, water based ZEP cleaners/degreasers, but then you have to get rid of the by products (hazmat disposal). I often just use DAWN dishwashing detergent and really hot water, followed by a really hot water rinse, then air hose off the excess water to dry. It works most of the time, and can be done in a laundry sink.Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Replyawn dish soap is a good degreaser, may work, get a good plastic bin some dawn and fill it with water, that will allow you to catch your used soap.IMPEACH BIDEN!NRA LIFE MEMBERUNITWELD 175 AMP 3 IN1 DCMIDSTATES 300 AMP AC MACHINEGOD HELP AMERICA!“Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.We didn’t pass it to our children in the bloodstream".RONALD REAGAN
Reply:Ironic primered and oiled.  I'd want primered to eliminate the need to remove oil. I typically clean large volumes of bare oily metal with zep purple. Apply with an industrial scouring pad, then rinse.  Acetone would be the simplest/cleanest.  Use proper gloves to apply acetone. And ventilation , even zep applied with a pump sprayer requires ventilation.I have never been satisfied with the results from soaking steel.  It would be easier to build first, then clean. ...if you had not considered that.
Reply:I use powdered Tide detergent, works great!
Reply:I buy bare steel, then do this. https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.ph...ing-Your-Steel  That way I KNOW what kind of primer is on it and how it will perform. What primer is on the steel you have for this project?
Reply:Oil is easy. What about that primer. 200 pieces x2 ends x 4 sides = 1600 sides that need primer grinded off so you can weld. If my calculations are off, let me know. If not, I pity you on your task. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by jeffrey.penfieldOil is easy. What about that primer. 200 pieces x2 ends x 4 sides = 1600 sides that need primer grinded off so you can weld. If my calculations are off, let me know.
Reply:Originally Posted by KelvinYour calculations would be accurate if you were welding every square inch of the steel. (You only need to remove the primer where you weld, then reprime there, then paint.)
Reply:Originally Posted by albrightreeThere are lots of industrial degreasers, acetone, MEK, alcohol, water based ZEP cleaners/degreasers, but then you have to get rid of the by products (hazmat disposal). I often just use DAWN dishwashing detergent and really hot water, followed by a really hot water rinse, then air hose off the excess water to dry. It works most of the time, and can be done in a laundry sink.
Reply:pre primed and oiled????      primer's purpose is to hold the coating. if that coating is oil the primer is now garbage. the only proper approach would be to start all over, sandblast and reprime.  anything else is hit or miss at best.    for bare steel i use dish soap in a foam cannon, scrub and hot water pressure wash. then cut and built.   once metal work is done, i hose it down with straight castrol super clean degreaser (the best i've found) with 10% ish dish soap, and scrubbed again. hot water pressure wash. then to dry. etching primer. then final coat.primer is meant to hold whatever is applied to it. muuch easier to clean bare steel than primed. my last workplace, a shipyard, learned this the hard way, lost 100's of thousands on warrenty work due to not painting soon enough after prime. they immediately implemented prime and paint documentation as well as weather and environment standards.     i hate painting, but being my own shop it is very profitable for me, i took the lessons from the shipyard and have never had a paint or coating callback to date. knock on wood   on another similar note.... never use a wire wheel to prep metal to be coated. another lesson from the ship yard. a wire wheel will polish the surface and leave no 'profile' as the painters call it to grab to, wire wheeled surface must have an etching primer to grab, run of the mill primer will flake off.  the shipyard wasn't so stingy with the flap wheels after they payed for that one.edit; ill add that i have spent a crap ton of money dialing in my paint method. airless, hvlp, etc.  i'm a small shop useage of 70-100k lbs of metal a year.  80% is painted with the 3m accuspray pressure pot system and Sher-kem  paint. the rest is patina's and custom coatings.  the 3m stuff felt like trowing away money unitl i threw money on the other stuff. shipyard used mostly airless, the rest was pressure pot. but volume was above that of the accuspray system. i shoot a gallon at a time tops, so its perfect for my operation.Last edited by tracymobilecnc; 09-29-2019 at 11:31 PM.General Contractor Commercial Industrial & Custom ResidentialSpecializing in all things Metal