TIG help

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 09:44:24 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for TIG help

Merry Christmas all,Im looking for some help with my GTAW. I have a little scratch start 150amp unit. Run Argon, 3/32 Tungsten. Ive been having a go with some mild steel. This is ERW NB 25 1/8 wall, with next size NB laminated to it. I sanded back all paint and wiped with Acetone. Still had problems with porosity.Im new to TIG and have only done a bit of MIG. I really need improving my filler (left) hand. Im coming in low and to the puddle egde, but find it sticking easily.Hopefully pics show something Attached Images
Reply:Id like to have a go at welding up this DIY diff cover ( it then gets welded to the axle housing) It is 6mm mild steel (0.25") It has been tacked with GMAW. The seller says to weld the outside first before finishing with the inside.Any prep tips?Amps? Passes?cheersSerg Attached Images
Reply:There is No chance I'd use that cover. Differential covers have a specifically designed internal shape. The ring gear serves as a turbine, blasting lube on the cover. The splash back showers all the gears, and bearings with lube. I wouldn't be confident yours is shaped right inside. Are you seeking rock protection? or more volume. Aluminum would be more effective for cooling.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Too bad he didn't clean the parts before he tacked them together. your probably gonna get junk boiling up to the top if you tig it / more porosity. I'd try to get a wire wheel in there a bit then mig it.Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BThere is No chance I'd use that cover. Differential covers have a specifically designed internal shape. The ring gear serves as a turbine, blasting lube on the cover. The splash back showers all the gears, and bearings with lube. I wouldn't be confident yours is shaped right inside. Are you seeking rock protection? or more volume. Aluminum would be more effective for cooling.
Reply:Originally Posted by John TToo bad he didn't clean the parts before he tacked them together. your probably gonna get junk boiling up to the top if you tig it / more porosity. I'd try to get a wire wheel in there a bit then mig it.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100Plenty of these being used on Land Rovers in the UK mostly on ones getting hard use racing. The stock housing cover would be about 2-2.5mm thick. Aluminium has its own issues. This cover will offer better impact protection and help stiffen the housing somewhat.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100quite happy to put the effort in on prep.
Reply:Your technique for scratch start is pretty good Serg. I see that the cut edges are plasma or laser cuts. That scale could contaminate your weld some. I would sandblast or wire wheel those edges to break through the scale before welding. Or you could get into the bevel with a dremel or something. Other than that burn baby, burn.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Those welds look good for just starting out tig welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BAny way to put a stock cover beneath it, or add internally the shape of stock. There is a great You Tube Video on the design of diff covers.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonYour technique for scratch start is pretty good Serg. I see that the cut edges are plasma or laser cuts. That scale could contaminate your weld some. I would sandblast or wire wheel those edges to break through the scale before welding. Or you could get into the bevel with a dremel or something. Other than that burn baby, burn.
Reply:Originally Posted by arcflashThose welds look good for just starting out tig welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100Thanks. I was thinking of running a cutting blade (not the 1mm thin ones) in there and then wire wheel. I even have some worn grinding blades that the edges are thin so it would create a V groove. I have one of those hand held bead blasters I could grab some sand for. Or what about the pool acid trick? What about the GMAW tacks? grind out? (obvisously id have to re tack in other loactions first)I follow "exilefabrications" on Instagram. He just recently posted about P&O mild steel, stating never restart of go over a weld without wire brushing first. Clean rod is also important. Wire wheel all tacks. He  mentions pulsing but I dont have that option.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonNah, just clean the best you can with what you have. Just scratching into the scale works wonders. And you don't need to grind out the tacks, weld into them and absorb into fresh filler. Exilefabrications? Never heard of her. Yes you can restart over a tig weld without brushing it. No you don't have to pulse for whatever she is using it for. She sounds like things need to be said to make her sound smart.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100Im not here to throw stones at anyone, and go check out his page, id be stoked to weld like him. He was just sharing his eperience with welding hot rolled mild steel.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonI have checked him out. Mike's shop is in Hesperia California. I just get suspicious when I hear misinformation. With that said the welding he produces is decent. I wish him well. If you want good information go to Jody Collier's youtube channel "Welding Tips and Tricks". He is super experienced and does not bend the truth. Me, I am just a dumb weldor.
Reply:Gayle Banks has a series of videos on differentials. Watch them.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonI have checked him out. Mike's shop is in Hesperia California. I just get suspicious when I hear misinformation. With that said the welding he produces is decent. I wish him well. If you want good information go to Jody Collier's youtube channel "Welding Tips and Tricks". He is super experienced and does not bend the truth. Me, I am just a dumb weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BGayle Banks has a series of videos on differentials. Watch them.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100Thanks again.How about some ideas on settings? Only have max of 150amp. 3/32 Tungsten #6 #7 cups  straight ArgonProcedures? Root ? Inside vs outside etc?CheersSerg
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonMax amps. 3/32 tungsten, #7 cup with 18cfh argon. Since instructions say outside first go for that. Your technique is sound so not much else I can recommend.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BGayle Banks has a series of videos on differentials. Watch them.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100Thanks again. Looks like 18cfh is 8.5 l/min so I’m pretty close to that at 9~10.Do you have a preferred filler size? Or does that become more of personal preference rather than set for different welds? What cup size would you run if you had choice?Any thoughts on these big cups that seem popular atm? Frupa etc
Reply:I see those aftermarket diff covers ALL the time in southern california both on and off road (johnson valley, big bear/arrowhead, glamis etc) and haven't really heard of any problems with them.  They're often run on abused axles (big tires, tall gears, huge loads, too fast, too small overall for tire load) but seem to be ok.  Oil splash engineering inside would be a good thing to consider if there is any in the first place (it's just the cover, often they're just webbed for strength but I haven't opened too many myself).  As long as the mating surface stays flat, clearances are ok, and fluid amount/strength is equal to or greater than stock, I think you're good to go.  I'd have Mig'd it to keep distortion down but it looks great and your welding looks solid!  Might want to add some fins towards the top for extra cooling if crawling in the heat much, could even braze copper if the thieves aren't too thick in your area!Last edited by SlowBlues; 12-31-2018 at 04:39 AM.I agree I'd try to de-scale what I could before going on.  Sandblasting would be great if you got access or even a wire brush would improve the surface some.  You can weld through it but it makes a crappy looking weld as all that crust floats around and messes up the wetting of the toes of the weld.  If I was to try single pass I'd use #6 cup, 12 scfm, the full 150 amps, 3/32 tungsten, 3/32 filler on the large gaps.  If the filler feels like it's sticking as you feed it's either too big or you're dipping too early.  The beads in first pics have a bit of undercut and some bubbles.  Both are likely from a long arc.  A long arc with spread the arc out and create a larger HAZ and also affect gas coverage, argon at 9-10 scfm is already on the low side so combined with a long arc could cause what I see in bead.  Keep your tungsten as close as you can without dipping, in fact as newbie if you don't dip from time to time you are probably running your arc too long.I don't have much experience with multi-pass.  I thought I heard ER70-S2 is okay for multipass?  I think 6mm is possible in a single pass but I havn't welded too much in that range, I'm normally in the 1-3 mm range.Last edited by sand_man_red; 12-31-2018 at 09:44 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100Just watched them all. No data provided yet. Yes I can see where it is going. Yes I agree those flat back bolt on covers are not ideal. Now take a real close look at the clear back oem type cover during use. Real close look at the oil. See there is stuff there he DOESNT mention. Compare to the clear back flat cover and see some of the same negatives going on. Now take in to consideration HIS position and the fact he’s got skin in the game...Aside from that, does my cover look flat backed with 90 degree corners creating more “work” in the fluid?Have you found any evidence of problems with the fabricated housings I mentioned, specifically relating to lube problems whether it be heat, airation, cavitation, oil starvation or such?I appreciate your input mate.
Replyon't forget that the larger cover is going to carry more lube thus keeping the relationship of the lube to the ring gear the same.
Reply:Originally Posted by sand_man_redI agree I'd try to de-scale what I could before going on.  Sandblasting would be great if you got access or even a wire brush would improve the surface some.  You can weld through it but it makes a crappy looking weld as all that crust floats around and messes up the wetting of the toes of the weld.  If I was to try single pass I'd use #6 cup, 12 scfm, the full 150 amps, 3/32 tungsten, 3/32 filler on the large gaps.  If the filler feels like it's sticking as you feed it's either too big or you're dipping too early.  The beads in first pics have a bit of undercut and some bubbles.  Both are likely from a long arc.  A long arc with spread the arc out and create a larger HAZ and also affect gas coverage, argon at 9-10 scfm is already on the low side so combined with a long arc could cause what I see in bead.  Keep your tungsten as close as you can without dipping, in fact as newbie if you don't dip from time to time you are probably running your arc too long.I don't have much experience with multi-pass.  I thought I heard ER70-S2 is okay for multipass?  I think 6mm is possible in a single pass but I havn't welded too much in that range, I'm normally in the 1-3 mm range.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq21009-10 L/min. In in Australia we roll metric. And are you sure your scfm, because that is a HELL of a lot of gas flow. Other than that, thanks for your tips
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BParbly CFH. I never use a standard collet. For me, it is always a gas lens, and here, it'd be #7 cup. I'd try 15 CFH at the torch.
Reply:Think bubble aerator on a kitchen faucet. It eliminates some of the turbulence. It is a stack of screens surrounding the tungsten. It offers gas coverage, without a jet of gas stirring into air. Shielding gas is about displacing air only.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BThink bubble aerator on a kitchen faucet. It eliminates some of the turbulence. It is a stack of screens surrounding the tungsten. It offers gas coverage, without a jet of gas stirring into air. Shielding gas is about displacing air only.
Reply:Htp sold me some good quality stuff
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100do you need to buy that as a kit with a new cup to suit or do they just fit in existing stock cup some how?
Reply:You need different collet bodies and different alumina cups for a gas lens for my 20-series torch, at least.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BA dumb weldor who uses few enough big words to pretend to be dumb. You ain't foolin' anybody. You forgot more than the rest of us will ever know. That $hip only plays with CEP.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq21009-10 L/min. In in Australia we roll metric. And are you sure your scfm, because that is a HELL of a lot of gas flow. Other than that, thanks for your tips
Reply:Originally Posted by sand_man_redI was wrong about scfm, it's scfh
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonWell you are right about one thing. I have a serious case of CRS.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BI write everything down, then forget where I put it. Those Fu*king mental notes are worst. I always lose the paper I wrote them on!
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonThats funny!!!  I write stuff down to make a mental imprint on it. If I don't I forget right off. Occasionally I find years old notes and ask myself what I was smoking.
Reply:I'm notorious for writing stuff down and not referencing it to anything, then find it later and wonder, what the heck is this, it can't be cuz I'm gettin old can it? I'll be 64 on the 21st so it can't be old age......I hope?IMPEACH BIDEN!NRA LIFE MEMBERUNITWELD 175 AMP 3 IN1 DCMIDSTATES 300 AMP AC MACHINEGOD HELP AMERICA!“Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.We didn’t pass it to our children in the bloodstream".RONALD REAGAN
Reply:hey Im 44 and already writing lists and such. Use to have a memory bank for so much, now I see one pair of boobs and i cant remember a single thing
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100hey im 44 and already writing lists and such. Use to have a memory bank for so much, now i see one pair of boobs and i cant remember a single thing
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonSQUIRREL !!!!!
Reply:No Squirrels in Oz boys..... Only white pointers Back on track:These are the torches I have for my little scratch DC GTAW. They are both basically the same. Both type 17 air cooler. The left one is the Kemppi branded torch that came with the welder. It developed a gas leak at the regulator fitting early on. I tried to fix it by cutting of the crimped/swaged fitting and buying a barbed hose fitting but it didnt work 100%. Good torch otherwise (AFAIK).  So I bought the BOC replacement which is MADE IN THE USA stamped as CK. IT is a little flexy but is stamped as ridgid. ( had I had a better idea I should have bought the flexy and kinda disapointed the salesman didnt offer that option) Both have the basic collet set up and standard length cups for 17 torches.Ive been watching Welding tips and tricks as recommended. Id like to try a gas lens set up. Question is, do I just go for the stubby kit , or do I keep it standard length? (pros and cons?)I went to BOC today and I can buy:Gas lens pkt 2 Au$25Cup to suit (one size) pkt 2 Au$25White heat sheild thingy pkt 2 $25These appear to be the standard length cups but bigger body to fit over the new gas lens collet. Im guessing same as Weldmongers " Large diameter gas lens kit" https://weldmongerstore.com/collecti...r-gas-lens-kitOr I go for his stubby kit:https://weldmongerstore.com/collecti...y-gas-lens-kitAlso, any tips to fix the gas line end on the Kemppi torch?cheersSerg Attached Images
Reply:I had the 17 torch once. I'm trying to remember what the part numbers were. I'd be able to go back in emails if I hadn't suffered a crash last summer. I believe you need the white washer to match the lens. Otherwise, looks good. I use 7 or 8 Alumina cup.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Is there any difference in welding performance (other than stubby fitting in a smaller space) between the standard length set ups and stubby?I dont need stubby right now but may do down the track. If there is no reason not to set the torch up stubby all the time, ill go that way.
Reply:Originally Posted by husq2100Is there any difference in welding performance (other than stubby fitting in a smaller space) between the standard length set ups and stubby?I dont need stubby right now but may do down the track. If there is no reason not to set the torch up stubby all the time, ill go that way.