Older Syncrowave 250 no arc/output

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 09:35:52 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for Older Syncrowave 250 no arc/output

My father has an older Syncrowave 250 that has lived in more or less covered outdoor storage for a few years now. Recently we went to use it and it would weld, but the amperage control had no effect at all on output. That was a problem itself, but now it won't even strike an arc (besides the HF arc). Anyone have any ideas? Haven't taken it apart yet. Worked fine, then no amperage control, then nothing. Thanks,Chaz
Reply:I would make sure each switch is in proper position for your setup. Look at post #6 in this thread: http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...-HF&highlight=There is a document attached with a brief description of each switch and how it should be set depending on steel or aluminum.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Time to get a voltmeter out and start checking stuff. The easy things would be the connection to the hall device coming loose (happened to me), check that the polarity switch isn't corroded. Check all the other connections. Was it welding at full amperage, or just no amperage control at all?Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:It's not a setting issue, it was working fine before and now won't do anything but the HF arc on any setting. Something in there decided to retire, it seems...When it was somewhat functional IIRC it seemed like it was making something like 70-80 amps? No amperage control whatsoever. I'll try to get it apart and check everything out. Considering the fact that the amperage control went out before it stopped working entirely (and the machine never moved), I'm afraid the board is probably dead or something. I'll get it apart and see if I can find anything visibly FUBAR in there...
Reply:I would take 5 minutes to verify all the switches are set as you need before I started tearing into it chasing an unknown problem. These machines have a lot of functions but need to be set correctly. If someone walked by and flipped a switch or two it could explain why it's not welding as last time. I have had problems with my Sync250, only to discover it wasn't set up properly. Are you doing stick or TIG? Are you using a Foot pedal? Steel or aluminum?Give some details and post a picture of the switches and somebody may fix your problem. You asked for help, so take advantage of the forum's resources.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:My father's had it for around 20 years or so IIRC and has built several dragsters with it, sheet metal aluminum intake manifolds, lots of general fab and repair work, etc. TIG steel and aluminum with a foot pedal that has long been on-off only. Worked great for years, just won't make an arc anymore. Gas flow and HF works, no arc. Since I'll just be looking for visually FUBAR components I figured I'd ask if the loss of amperage control before it totally quit suggested a failure anyone was familiar with, given how common these are.
Reply:Not knowing the serial number, I just picked a manual for an older Syncrowave 250. You can find the exact manual on www.millerwelds.com .https://www.millerwelds.com/files/ow.../O353D_MIL.pdfYou can look at the Troubleshooting chart for insight. Look at page 24.Again, you can get some help from real experts if you provide specific information such as "TIG welding steel (gauge), using a footpedal. Amp setting is 225,  Amperage Control Switch in PANEL position, Output/Contactor Switch in REMOTE position, Arc Control Switch in OFF position, etc.". Or as suggested post a picture of the faceplate so we can see your settings. All you keep saying is it doesn't weld and you want to tear into it, but I am unsure of your background, experience, training, etc.  You probably know much more than I do, but I've learned the hard way to check the simple things first. It is hard to communicate on a forum because each person thinks the other understands what he is saying.Last edited by wb4rt; 09-21-2016 at 06:00 AM.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Here's the technical manual with detailed troubleshooting instructions.  http://www.manualslib.com/download/4...owave-250.htmlMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Nine out of ten board or hall device (early models don't have an independent one) failure. Maybe you'll get lucky, but I wouldn't get your hopes up.Try stick welding with it in panel control. Foot pedals sometimes take a crap. Eliminate that right off. Personally, I hate Swave machines, but only because I've had such bad luck with them.If the pedal isn't the problem, it's likely not good news from there..Last edited by 7A749; 09-21-2016 at 06:58 AM.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:I understand, Burt. Hard to tell from the other side of a computer screen. Thanks for the manual links, I'm going to try to pick it up tomorrow morning and I'll start checking it out.Yeah Steven, that's what I'm figuring. I'd suspect the foot pedal if it wasn't for the fact that it got "stuck" at 70-80 amps before it quit; couldn't turn it down lower. Probably a dead board. My father is just going to get a small inverter welder to replace it, so my acquisition cost is free. I need an AC/TIG setup and I figure if I can spend a few hundred dollars on parts and have this one work another 20 years it'll still be a pretty good deal...
Replyicked it up it today. Serial # KD, apparently made in late 1993. Took the cover off and found some trim pots on the board that don't look so great. Board is #138307. Repair seems to be around $250 give or take a little, new isn't available, and the # 180014 board that replaces it seems to be $625-725 new. Not positive what I'm going to do yet, still need to make sure that nothing else is wrong anyway (and make sure the board is cooked, of course).
Reply:Board:
Reply:Originally Posted by ChazPNot positive what I'm going to do yet, still need to make sure that nothing else is wrong anyway (and make sure the board is cooked, of course).
Reply:Yeah, they are a little less at $602 for the replacement # 180014 board. Saw a couple repair places at $235 and $285. If possible I'd like to repair it myself, given that the components are only a dollar or two each for the most part. Need to come up with a good way to test everything for function (or lack therof) and figure out what values I'll be looking for to set the trimpots before I can do that, though.
Reply:Being a Ford person......pics of the truck please(I realize it is a Chevy)Good luck with the Syncrowave.Last edited by vwguy3; 09-23-2016 at 10:59 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by vwguy3Being a Ford person......pics of the truck please(I realize it is a Chevy)Good luck with the Syncrowave.
Replyoved the build thread. You're a man of many talents!Good luck with the welder.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Thanks. Really more of a "jack-of-all-trades, master-of-none", though.
Reply:Me too Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948