Detroit 60 crank sensor removal

Tue, 31 Aug 2021 09:35:49 GMT

go to see Welding Machine for Detroit 60 crank sensor removal

A friend has a Volvo with a Detroit 60 that won't fire. The mechanic was there and checked all the normal stuff, fuel, air, computer, bull gear. They decided to swap out the crank sensor.... except it was rusted in and wouldn't budge. The dealer said the crank sensor is always hard and they often have to drop the pan and drive it out. When I arrived this morning there was a large lag bolt screwed into the plastic unit and they were trying to free it with a pry bar. After trying a few things myself I decided to tap the part and make a quick puller. After I started putting some pressure on it... it felt like it was pulling the threads from the plastic... so I stopped and checked and to my surprise it was coming out. I had the remains of the sensor out within minutes. The mechanic was so pleased I let him keep the homemade puller for the next one. After all that... the truck still won't fire.  Attached Images
Reply:I'm grateful I have an old 71 series.  Mechanical all the way."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI'm grateful I have an old 71 series.  Mechanical all the way.
Reply:nice idea, good stuffESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireNo kidding. All this electronic stuff is a nightmare. I think the dealer is coming out on Monday with the scanner. My bet is a bad ground someplace.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI'm grateful I have an old 71 series.  Mechanical all the way.
Reply:But whatever you run it's better than a C9
Reply:We put 20,000+ hours on our Series 60 Detroits with very little problems.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Originally Posted by 76GMC1500I'm building a few 6-71's to meet even California emissions standards right now but I hear the 60 series engines are the bee's knees of current diesel engines.
Reply:I am amazed at how wrong these things are when I tear them down.  I am new to Detroit and building engines in general but the Detroit manual is excellent and there is no reason anything should be done incorrectly.  The last blower I pulled apart had no shims in it whatsoever.  Both of my recent blower builds would contact lobes if you rolled them backwards.The new Alpine Green is not the same as the old.  I bought a case of Alpine Green from Detroit and will post pictures of the current color when the build is done.
Reply:My friend ended up taking the truck into a shop familiar with the engine. They tore into it and discovered the bull gear bearing was toast. He's looking for another engine to drop in.Can anyone tell me why loosing the bull gear bearing would warrant replacement over rebuild? Does it cause internal damage or something?
Reply:When we lost a bull gear, we rebuilt it and it has about 12,000 hrs on it and still going strong.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Originally Posted by RaptorDunerWhen we lost a bull gear, we rebuilt it and it has about 12,000 hrs on it and still going strong.
Reply:Our Series 60 was in one of the Letourneau log stackers turning 2140 rpms and just died because the bull gear drives the air comp and the fuel lift pump is coupled to the back of the compressor so it wasn't spinning slowly when it went. I didn't get to see the damage because the engine had over 22,000 hrs on it so it was sent to Pacific Power Products in Ridgefield for a major overhaul. The damage couldn't have been too bad because there was no additional expense to fix/replace the engine block.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Turns out after they got the truck back from the shop that claimed the bull gear was toast (broken teeth, bad bearing) the onsite mechanic decided to tear into it and see if it was repairable. Not sure what broken teeth the shop was looking at but the bull gear was in perfect condition! Took it down and had it verified. The shop adjusted the preload and said it was good as new. No need to replace it. Wow. So now they've re-installed everything and are down to the seal. The mechanic dropped off a scrap of some heavy pipe to make a seal installer. I really should have band-sawed this... it was like a 1/2" crooked on the flame cut.  After a lot of clanking of an interrupted cut and a while more whittling it to dimension I was finally able to part it off the machine. The seal is pretty neat, it has a wear sleeve and the seal. The installer will press the sleeve and seal into a neutral position so the seal rides even front and back... a little room for thrust. I guess when the seal gets re-installed they are back to square one... hunting an electrical problem. Here's a few pictures. Enjoy. Attached Images