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Don't ask me a bunch of questions, but I need to weld some plain chicken wire (1" mesh) to some 3/8" rebar. First I'll cut the rebar into 3 1/2-foot pieces, then weld those into a square. Then lay the square over some plain chicken wire, cut around it, and weld the chicken wire onto the rebar. Probably cut the wire about 2" wider, and fold it over.I have .035 NR-211, 6013, 6011, 7018, and 7014 available. It does NOT have to look good.How would you do it? I'm thinking of using 1/8" 6013, just putting a little glob where the chicken wire crosses over the rebar.-Ruark"Become one with the puddle, grasshopper" - Welding InstructorLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:
Originally Posted by Ruark
Don't ask me a bunch of questions, but I need to weld some plain chicken wire (1" mesh) to some 3/8" rebar. First I'll cut the rebar into 3 1/2-foot pieces, then weld those into a square. Then lay the square over some plain chicken wire, cut around it, and weld the chicken wire onto the rebar. Probably cut the wire about 2" wider, and fold it over.I have .035 NR-211, 6013, 6011, 7018, and 7014 available. It does NOT have to look good.How would you do it? I'm thinking of using 1/8" 6013, just putting a little glob where the chicken wire crosses over the rebar.
Reply:The 6013 or E71T-GS will do the job. Dave
Originally Posted by Ruark
Don't ask me a bunch of questions, but I need to weld some plain chicken wire (1" mesh) to some 3/8" rebar. First I'll cut the rebar into 3 1/2-foot pieces, then weld those into a square. Then lay the square over some plain chicken wire, cut around it, and weld the chicken wire onto the rebar. Probably cut the wire about 2" wider, and fold it over.I have .035 NR-211, 6013, 6011, 7018, and 7014 available. It does NOT have to look good.How would you do it? I'm thinking of using 1/8" 6013, just putting a little glob where the chicken wire crosses over the rebar.
Reply:5/64" 6013 would be my first choice of welding rod. You might want to tack weld a washer on top of the wire to hold it down. The mere exposure of the wire to the arc can cause the wire to burn up. Solid wire mig would be the best process, but you didn't mention it. good luckAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60DPrimeweld 225 ac/dcPrimeweld mig180Miller AEAD-200
Reply:I have push the puddle into wire . Takes a little practice not to melted the wire. I do like 6013 too it is a good choice. But you have more control with wire like 0.030" ( E71T-11 or E71T-GS. )Dave
Originally Posted by albrightree
5/64" 6013 would be my first choice of welding rod. You might want to tack weld a washer on top of the wire to hold it down. The mere exposure of the wire to the arc can cause the wire to burn up. Solid wire mig would be the best process, but you didn't mention it. good luck
Reply:
Originally Posted by Ruark
Don't ask me a bunch of questions, but I need to weld some plain chicken wire (1" mesh) to some 3/8" rebar. First I'll cut the rebar into 3 1/2-foot pieces, then weld those into a square. Then lay the square over some plain chicken wire, cut around it, and weld the chicken wire onto the rebar. Probably cut the wire about 2" wider, and fold it over.I have .035 NR-211, 6013, 6011, 7018, and 7014 available. It does NOT have to look good.How would you do it? I'm thinking of using 1/8" 6013, just putting a little glob where the chicken wire crosses over the rebar.
Reply:The Lincoln wire NR211is E71T-11 witch is good wire. I would use 0.030". You can also use E71T-GS/NR212 it too is a good wire. chicken wire is a pain in butt to weld or braze as melted fast.. It take a little practice not to burn though the wire. Dave
Originally Posted by Oldiron2
A dozen years ago I needed to weld expanded metal to bed-frame (hardened) angle-iron. Besides the high-carbon steel of the angle, the grid was heavily galvanized, and a few hundred welds were required. I found using ER70S-6 wire w/ Co2 worked best. I considered TIG, but getting rid of all the zinc was difficult and that might have resulted in it popping onto the tungsten. I recall using a propane torch to preheat the material once it was either clamped or tacked enough to hold the work areas in position; not sure I did this with all the welds though.I have never used any NR-211 (although I do have some rolls of .035) so can't say it would behave better, the same or worse. I could also do it with 6013, but it would be more work and take longer, I'm sure.
Reply:Sounds like it would be pretty frustrating.Could you pinch the chicken wire betweentwo pieces of rebar and weld the rebar together?Leave some chicken wire sticking out and weld in thespaces in the wire. You could use multiple short scrap pieces/drops.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:
Originally Posted by 12V71
Get a bunch of zip ties and save your sanity.
Reply:
Originally Posted by StandarDyne
+1The chicken wire is just gonna fatigue out and/or rust out at the HAZ in short order anyway. I'd give it a month, less if it rains. With zip ties, baling wire or even kite string, it could last for years.
Reply:
Originally Posted by duramax-rob
maybe use a galvanized spray after welding
Reply:
Originally Posted by duramax-rob
maybe use a galvanized spray after welding
Reply:
Originally Posted by StandarDyne
+1The chicken wire is just gonna fatigue out and/or rust out at the HAZ in short order anyway. I'd give it a month, less if it rains. With zip ties, baling wire or even kite string, it could last for years.
Reply:Thanks for all the replies. This won't be outside or exposed to anything; it'll just sit in the doorway of a greenhouse, to keep critters from getting in when the door's open. No load on the wire or anything. If it lasts a year, I'm good. I'm planning to experiment a little this afternoon with some scrap, and see what works best. Good idea about the zip-ties... I do have a bag of 2 or 3 hundred little 5 inch black zipties. I'd rather weld it, though, because welding's a lot more fun....
-Ruark"Become one with the puddle, grasshopper" - Welding InstructorLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:If you're going ahead with the 6013, I'd maybe try reverse polarity if you have DC. Some rebars can be tricky to work with at the best of times. If the weld is too brittle, I would switch to 7014, but I still think those wire ties like we used to use laying rebar would be fastest if you have the tool to twist them. Maybe try welding 2 pieces of the rebar first, to get a handle on what it's like to work with before you add chicken wire into the equation.Last edited by whtbaron; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:54 AM.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
Yea.... x2 for light wire.... zip ties are nice but they deteriorate in the sun and get brittle. Find a coated wire that won't rust.
Reply:Quality plays a big role too.... I've had black plastic ones that weren't any good either... I think the better ones are more nylon.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:If I really thought I had to do anything related to welding I would braze it, but it would take some serious coercion to get me to do it. I would frame in wood and use staples like this:https://www.lowes.ca/product/staples...E&gclsrc=aw.ds or sandwich it between 2 pieces of wood. For zip ties you would want UV resistant like this:https://ziptie.com/product/8-inch-uv...sted-100-pack/My $0.02. Worth less than you paid for it.Last edited by Meltedmetal; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:39 AM.---Meltedmetal
Reply:I'd still use wire ties like these if you want it to last a season.... https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p...E&gclsrc=aw.dsThe harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I think use stainless steel welding wire if it a home project. I have 10 roll of 0.023" 308 stainless steel wire that use like bailing wire. But does not rust. I also use for electric fencing too. Dave
Originally Posted by whtbaron
I'd still use wire ties like these if you want it to last a season.... https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Reply:Just tried it with some scrap chicken wire and rebar. Used all kinds of rods and fluxcore, various settings, etc. Holy crapola!!! No matter what I did, the wire melted instantly, like warm butter. Guess I'll grab the zip-ties.... Well, I tried, anyway...-Ruark"Become one with the puddle, grasshopper" - Welding InstructorLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Wrap the wire and use hog rings to hold it. Much better and neater than welding, zip ties, kite string, etcBurt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 120www.10FtDrillBit.comwww.MyWelds.com - pictures of my work
Reply:The finer the chicken wire(1" opening or less) , the lighter gauge wire they seem to use. I have tried to weld almost everything possible together, and that is one of the least successful endeavors(chicken wire to rebar). Save the welding for the frame work.I have a spool of stainless steel aircraft safety wire that a friend gave to me 15 years ago. I've only used about 10ft of it tying things up where ty-wraps wouldn't work because of heat, or wouldn't fit because they were too thick. 023/030 mig wire would work too, but that would be expensive to buy if you didn't have some already. I think galvanized tie wire for suspended ceiling is much cheaper, and comes in several gauge sizes, available at my local Tractor Supply. I use plastic coated twist ties that I buy in a spool with a built in cutter for tying up tomato, eggplant, pepper plants, and cucumber and bean trellis's made from chicken wire or plastic coated fence. You might find them useful in the greenhouse too.
What kind of critters ? I just woke up to a 300 lb. black bear chewing on my garbage can. I'm not sure which is worse : a black bear, or a skunk ? Good LuckAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60DPrimeweld 225 ac/dcPrimeweld mig180Miller AEAD-200
Reply:
Originally Posted by Ruark
Thanks for all the replies. This won't be outside or exposed to anything; it'll just sit in the doorway of a greenhouse, to keep critters from getting in when the door's open. No load on the wire or anything. If it lasts a year, I'm good. I'm planning to experiment a little this afternoon with some scrap, and see what works best. Good idea about the zip-ties... I do have a bag of 2 or 3 hundred little 5 inch black zipties. I'd rather weld it, though, because welding's a lot more fun....
Reply:
Originally Posted by wb4rt
Wrap the wire and use hog rings to hold it. Much better and neater than welding, zip ties, kite string, etcStainless safety wire and twist pliers.Syncrowave 250 w/ coolrunnerMM210 W/spoolgunSP 135Victor O/ARamsond cut 50Titanium Stick 225.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Tbones
Stainless safety wire and twist pliers.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Ruark
Don't ask me a bunch of questions, but I need to weld some plain chicken wire (1" mesh) to some 3/8" rebar. First I'll cut the rebar into 3 1/2-foot pieces, then weld those into a square. Then lay the square over some plain chicken wire, cut around it, and weld the chicken wire onto the rebar. Probably cut the wire about 2" wider, and fold it over.I have .035 NR-211, 6013, 6011, 7018, and 7014 available. It does NOT have to look good.How would you do it? I'm thinking of using 1/8" 6013, just putting a little glob where the chicken wire crosses over the rebar.
Reply:It interesting that we are all talking about chicken wire.Dave
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
If it is for a concrete form I strongly suggest you just use tie wire (like the rest of the world
)3/32" 6013 or 6011. 6013 would be a better choice.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by 12V71
Get a bunch of zip ties and save your sanity.
Reply:
Originally Posted by smithdoor
It interesting that we are all talking about chicken wire.Dave
Reply:Good section. Dave
Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds
This thread may have to get moved to the Metallurgy section. lol
Reply:Yall ever encountered rebar that was galvanized and then painted?Only time I've seen it was when I threw a piece in the forge and it started bellowing smoke and had those really purdy flames. Wish I know where it came from. It'd be good for tomato stakes. Never have to replace them.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:That done for wet locations. In Ocean water it does not help much. Dave
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Yall ever encountered rebar that was galvanized and then painted?Only time I've seen it was when I threw a piece in the forge and it started bellowing smoke and had those really purdy flames. Wish I know where it came from. It'd be good for tomato stakes. Never have to replace them.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:test post
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
The last electrical place that I worked at did a test of the zip ties,,The "white" or translucent ones that let light go through failed quickly in sunlight,,The "black" or opaque colored ones that did not let light pass through lasted outside about as long as inside.We always thought that the light was able to break the molecular bonds,, if the light could not get inside the material, the bonds did not break.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Ruark
Don't ask me a bunch of questions,
Reply:
Originally Posted by Robb M.
test post [by site Main Moderator]
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oldiron2
Is he allowed
to do that here, particularly in a thread about chicken wire and keeping pests out?
Reply:Was the test post rebar, or stainless steel?The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Welding is an absolute waste of time here. Chicken wire is well, wire. Cut it oversized, fold it over, and twist the tails into itself.My name's not Jim....
Reply:
Originally Posted by Boostinjdm
Welding is an absolute waste of time here. Chicken wire is well, wire. Cut it oversized, fold it over, and twist the tails into itself.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Robb M.
test post
Reply:Bet this thread has lasted longer than the job...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
Bet this thread has lasted longer than the job...
Reply:
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Not if you do it the right way. You DO charge by the hour, right?Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
Charge? I don't get paid, I'm a farmer....
Reply:Sounds like construction 🚧. Everyone wants free welding Dave
Originally Posted by whtbaron
Charge? I don't get paid, I'm a farmer....
Reply:I would braze it but I don't have a welder good enough to do the job!
Reply:It is pain in butt even if braze.The wire burns though before the rebar gets hot to braze. It is a learning curve. Dave
Originally Posted by rexcormack
I would braze it but I don't have a welder good enough to do the job!
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发表于 2022-5-19 11:02:46