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Hi all. New to the forum so appreciate any help. I was given a fairly new but dead Weld Pak 140 HD. Dead meaning no cooling fan, no spooling, no gas solenoid click, etc. I have power at the power switch, at the control board, and voltage selector. I have 110v at the fan from the board, so I assume the fan is bad, but what would account for everything else being out as well?
Reply:
Originally Posted by MarshallM
Hi all. New to the forum so appreciate any help. I was given a fairly new but dead Weld Pak 140 HD. Dead meaning no cooling fan, no spooling, no gas solenoid click, etc. I have power at the power switch, at the control board, and voltage selector. I have 110v at the fan from the board, so I assume the fan is bad, but what would account for everything else being out as well?
Reply:
Originally Posted by tadawson
A lot of those smaller machines had an extra winding on the fan used as a transformer to get power for the feed motor, controls, etc, so if the fan quits, so does the unit. If yours is one of those, replacing the fan might be the fix. How many wires connect to the fan?
Reply:If I guess right the case is rectangle in shape. Should has a standard muffin fan in the back. You will want to test at the pcb terminals. the two outside terminals are connected to the line switch and should power on and off with the switch. Next one in is the fan terminals. this also should have 115 vac turned on with the switch.the next is the weld transformer connection. H1 and H2 with only have power if pcb is working. If you have power at the fan terminal and no fan. Fan may be bad. removed one wire and measure wires with an ohmmeter. OL or open is bad. anything else fan may be ok but jammed. Now go to the trigger plug. measure pin 1 and 2. should be around 15vdc if no voltage pcb is bad. if both fan and pcb are bad welder was hit with to high of line voltage and it burnt the transformer on the pcb and the fan motor. You can test the transformer by removing the 4 pin plug. measure 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 if open transformer is bad. also terminal 6 should show a short to 1 and 3. terminal 1 to 2 and 4. The 4 pin plug converts the pcb so it can be used in both the 140 and 180 model welders.
Reply:Did you check voltage on both sides at same time or do use a command ground or white wire some place else?Voltage can back feed giving a good when the neutral is out.Dave
Originally Posted by MarshallM
Hi all. New to the forum so appreciate any help. I was given a fairly new but dead Weld Pak 140 HD. Dead meaning no cooling fan, no spooling, no gas solenoid click, etc. I have power at the power switch, at the control board, and voltage selector. I have 110v at the fan from the board, so I assume the fan is bad, but what would account for everything else being out as well?
Reply:
Originally Posted by ccawgc
If I guess right the case is rectangle in shape. Should has a standard muffin fan in the back. You will want to test at the pcb terminals. the two outside terminals are connected to the line switch and should power on and off with the switch. Next one in is the fan terminals. this also should have 115 vac turned on with the switch.the next is the weld transformer connection. H1 and H2 with only have power if pcb is working. If you have power at the fan terminal and no fan. Fan may be bad. removed one wire and measure wires with an ohmmeter. OL or open is bad. anything else fan may be ok but jammed. Now go to the trigger plug. measure pin 1 and 2. should be around 15vdc if no voltage pcb is bad. if both fan and pcb are bad welder was hit with to high of line voltage and it burnt the transformer on the pcb and the fan motor. You can test the transformer by removing the 4 pin plug. measure 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 if open transformer is bad. also terminal 6 should show a short to 1 and 3. terminal 1 to 2 and 4. The 4 pin plug converts the pcb so it can be used in both the 140 and 180 model welders.
Reply:i have both a weldpak 100 and a weld pak 125hd, my weld pak 125HD stopped feeding wire one day and i checked out all the usual things , pc board , trigger switch , drive motor , the machine went on when i turned it on, fan motor running, clicking noise when i pulled the trigger , ect, the problem was the ON/OFF switch , even though it was getting turned on and running , theres like 5 wires coming out of the back of the switch , the switch was bad inside , i took the part number off the side of the switch , ordered a new one and she started welding again , maybe theres a wire in the on/off switch thats bad for you , probably the 140HD is the same as the small amp machines , , its only $7.00, worth a try , heres the switch to get from amazon :CARLING TECHNOLOGIES RGSCC901-R-B-B-E SWITCH, ROCKER, DPDT, 20A, 250V, BLACK (1 piece)
Reply:
Originally Posted by ccawgc
If I guess right the case is rectangle in shape. Should has a standard muffin fan in the back. You will want to test at the pcb terminals. the two outside terminals are connected to the line switch and should power on and off with the switch. Next one in is the fan terminals. this also should have 115 vac turned on with the switch.the next is the weld transformer connection. H1 and H2 with only have power if pcb is working. If you have power at the fan terminal and no fan. Fan may be bad. removed one wire and measure wires with an ohmmeter. OL or open is bad. anything else fan may be ok but jammed. Now go to the trigger plug. measure pin 1 and 2. should be around 15vdc if no voltage pcb is bad. if both fan and pcb are bad welder was hit with to high of line voltage and it burnt the transformer on the pcb and the fan motor. You can test the transformer by removing the 4 pin plug. measure 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 if open transformer is bad. also terminal 6 should show a short to 1 and 3. terminal 1 to 2 and 4. The 4 pin plug converts the pcb so it can be used in both the 140 and 180 model welders. |
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发表于 2022-5-19 11:02:38