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I am pretty inexperienced with stick welding first of all. My machine does 1/8" 6013, and 6011 nice and smooth, but 7018 it starts the arc and welds fine, then I suddenly loose the arc after a second or two, and very difficult to restart, it just sticks to the metal. I tried different polarities, upping the amps, keeping gap tight, checking ground, longer arc. Bought new rods from a sealed package, same problem. Dried the rods, preheated the rods, changed electrode holder, changed ground cable, ran the machine with no extension cable. I cranked up the current so high that the metal was almost glowing, all same problem. My machine is a cheap 250 amps lightweight inverter type, generic Chinese machine. It says 62v open circuit. There is no "arc force" control, just an amperage dial. All I can figure is that OCV is too low for 7018? Maybe I am still getting bad rods?Any ideas besides throwing this machine in the water?
Reply:Are you losing the arc consistently, meaning every single time after having checked all that? You did not mention the diameter of the 7018s nor the amperage you are trying to use it at. Keep in mind, that many cheap inverter machines do not output anywhere near what they claim. One of my cheapies says 136A on the display. Guess what it shows when I put an ammeter on the cable? 112-115A. That's a whopping ~18% difference and not in a good way, lol. There's no telling what your machine is showing and the display, and what it is really doing (unless you have a DC ammeter to measure it). For all you know (unless you have measured it) it's [potentially] off by 50% (just as an example), so you dial in 70-80A, but it's giving you 30-40A! I have a feeling you'd be surprised at the discrepancy I suspect. making the rod glow doesn't mean anything. A little bit of amperage for a few seconds can still do that. OCV should not be a problem, because you stated you are able to get the arc started, which is exactly what OCV is for. I'm willing to bet your machine is of the scenario I described above. I've seen some so small and cheap that also claim "250A", that there's no way it's possible considering everything. They likely put out like 90A or so. Or you're just long-arc'ing it and you haven't realized it. Lots of variables here. Do you know anyone who knows how to stick weld so they can check it out? Are you sure you didn't buy 6010s and are not telling us and are just saying "7018s" to see what advice you get? I ask for a very good reason
OR...is this the machine you asked about in you other thread: https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...-do-stick-modeLast edited by Oscar; 1 Day Ago at 09:52 PM.
1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!
Reply:
Originally Posted by wiking
I am pretty inexperienced with stick welding first of all. My machine does 1/8" 6013, and 6011 nice and smooth, but 7018 it starts the arc and welds fine, then I suddenly loose the arc after a second or two, and very difficult to restart, it just sticks to the metal. I tried different polarities, upping the amps, keeping gap tight, checking ground, longer arc. Bought new rods from a sealed package, same problem. Dried the rods, preheated the rods, changed electrode holder, changed ground cable, ran the machine with no extension cable. I cranked up the current so high that the metal was almost glowing, all same problem. My machine is a cheap 250 amps lightweight inverter type, generic Chinese machine. It says 62v open circuit. There is no "arc force" control, just an amperage dial. All I can figure is that OCV is too low for 7018? Maybe I am still getting bad rods?Any ideas besides throwing this machine in the water?
Reply:
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Not to get ahead of ourselves, but if you decide to get a different stick machine, I always recommend either a Miller Thunderbolt or a Lincoln 125/225. If you get a transformer machine, AC/DC is the way to go. The Lincoln ("tombstone") doesn't have an infinite variable amp control, it has notches. The only downside I see to a transformer machine is weight... BUT it's fine if you put some wheels on it.
Reply:E7018 is not best rod for low cost welders. The best rod for a low cost welders is E7014 or E6013The first question is why are you using E7018Dave
Originally Posted by wiking
I am pretty inexperienced with stick welding first of all. My machine does 1/8" 6013, and 6011 nice and smooth, but 7018 it starts the arc and welds fine, then I suddenly loose the arc after a second or two, and very difficult to restart, it just sticks to the metal. I tried different polarities, upping the amps, keeping gap tight, checking ground, longer arc. Bought new rods from a sealed package, same problem. Dried the rods, preheated the rods, changed electrode holder, changed ground cable, ran the machine with no extension cable. I cranked up the current so high that the metal was almost glowing, all same problem. My machine is a cheap 250 amps lightweight inverter type, generic Chinese machine. It says 62v open circuit. There is no "arc force" control, just an amperage dial. All I can figure is that OCV is too low for 7018? Maybe I am still getting bad rods?Any ideas besides throwing this machine in the water?
Reply:Quit using the Hobart 7018's and get some Lincoln 7018's,,, Is my guess correct??
Reply:Sumptin wronjg, that machine is made to run it. Should burn them steady till its a glowing cinder.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:
This is the dedicated SMAW machine I bought.
This is my first one, and says TIG only *plus a weird cleaning brush function
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
Are you losing the arc consistently, meaning every single time after having checked all that? You did not mention the diameter of the 7018s nor the amperage you are trying to use it at. Keep in mind, that many cheap inverter machines do not output anywhere near what they claim. One of my cheapies says 136A on the display. Guess what it shows when I put an ammeter on the cable? 112-115A. That's a whopping ~18% difference and not in a good way, lol. There's no telling what your machine is showing and the display, and what it is really doing (unless you have a DC ammeter to measure it). For all you know (unless you have measured it) it's [potentially] off by 50% (just as an example), so you dial in 70-80A, but it's giving you 30-40A! I have a feeling you'd be surprised at the discrepancy I suspect. making the rod glow doesn't mean anything. A little bit of amperage for a few seconds can still do that. OCV should not be a problem, because you stated you are able to get the arc started, which is exactly what OCV is for. I'm willing to bet your machine is of the scenario I described above. I've seen some so small and cheap that also claim "250A", that there's no way it's possible considering everything. They likely put out like 90A or so. Or you're just long-arc'ing it and you haven't realized it. Lots of variables here. Do you know anyone who knows how to stick weld so they can check it out? Are you sure you didn't buy 6010s and are not telling us and are just saying "7018s" to see what advice you get? I ask for a very good reason
OR...is this the machine you asked about in you other thread: https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...-do-stick-mode
Reply:
Originally Posted by smithdoor
E7018 is not best rod for low cost welders. The best rod for a low cost welders is E7014 or E6013The first question is why are you using E7018Dave
Reply:The iWeld machine seems to do well with 309l rods, no arc drop outs, using 3/32 at 90 amps on the dial with 10 gauge steel plate and 5mm type 316 stainless. I did tee welds, for a hatch coaming on the steel deck.Maybe I need another brand of 7018 rod?
Reply:
Originally Posted by wiking
This is the dedicated SMAW machine I bought.
This is my first one, and says TIG only *plus a weird cleaning brush function
Reply:I wish I could send it back. 3 day warranty here. I bought a plasma cutter that the PCB failed after a week, piece of crap, but only 150 bucks. I reckon the PCB will cost more than that, but will see.
Reply:
Originally Posted by wiking
I wish I could send it back. 3 day warranty here. I bought a plasma cutter that the PCB failed after a week, piece of crap, but only 150 bucks. I reckon the PCB will cost more than that, but will see.
Reply:I have my boat in Malaysia for repairs. Have never seen a big Red or Blue machine here unfortunately. I sure like the portability of these little boxes, but when that PCB pops it's game over, not even enough copper inside to be worth recycling. It is a strange part of the world, they skipped most of the steps the US went through. Almost no welding at all then IGBT inverters. No phone lines, then straight to 5g cell towers. No bank accounts then bitcoin by phone. Like that.Fortunately lots of oxygen and acetylene here, and that gear never breaks down.
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发表于 2022-3-18 15:51:22