AHP Regulator leaking- always something

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You know I thought it was odd that I have burned through 500psi of AR just running a few beads since I got another bottle a few weeks ago. From 1500 to about 1000psi.....I dabbed some gas leak detector in some likely places and GASPED.All these fittings are tight. The instructions said NOT to use teflon tape.Now what?



Magnus 140 MIGAHP 201xd
Reply:Except for the connection to the bottle I would use teflon tape. as far as the CGA 580 fitting itself, check to see if the male side of the connector (the side attached to your regulator) is damaged (nicked or scratched). If not I would return the bottle to the LWS for an exchange and make it their problem to solve.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:


Originally Posted by Louie1961

Except for the connection to the bottle I would use teflon tape. as far as the CGA 580 fitting itself, check to see if the male side of the connector (the side attached to your regulator) is damaged (nicked or scratched). If not I would return the bottle to the LWS for an exchange and make it their problem to solve.
Reply:I just heard back from AHP. and they said at this point I should buy another regulator and argon line.WHAT SHOULD I GET?Magnus 140 MIGAHP 201xd
Reply:The smaller the bubbles the smaller the leak.Start with the big leaks first and work you way down.You should not use teflon tape on any threads except TAPERED pipe threads.Straight thread fittings seal by means of a tapered seat or some sort of sealing "washer".I've been in the pressure industry for 43 years and I can't tell you how many times I have fixeda customers leak by removing teflon tape from connections where it shouldnot have been including oring sealed fittings.

The big leak is at the cylinder connection. You could try loosening the nut just enough thatthe regulator will move and rotate it back and forth a tiny bit and then retighten the nut.I've had this work quite often. If this does not work check the male side of the cylinder connectionas Louie stated.The small bubbles look like they are coming from the small connections that screw into the regulator body.You could try tightening them SLIGHTLY and see if that reduces or eliminates the leaks.If it does not you will need to remove them to confirm what sealing method they use and whether you canuse teflon tape.If you do confirm that it is tapered pipe thread then apply 1-1/2 to 2 wraps of teflon tape.Any more than that does no good.
Reply:

Originally Posted by vdotmatrix

I just heard back from AHP. and they said at this point I should buy another regulator and argon line.WHAT SHOULD I GET?
Reply:Thank you...I will try this straight away...... I guess i did read the blip in the manual about not using teflon tape...THANK YOU SO MUCH for responding! So, havent crossed this next bridge yet but what regulator should I get?  to future proof my journet should I get a dual port joby?

Originally Posted by rexcormack

The smaller the bubbles the smaller the leak.Start with the big leaks first and work you way down.You should not use teflon tape on any threads except TAPERED pipe threads.Straight thread fittings seal by means of a tapered seat or some sort of sealing "washer".I've been in the pressure industry for 43 years and I can't tell you how many times I have fixeda customers leak by removing teflon tape from connections where it shouldnot have been including oring sealed fittings.

The big leak is at the cylinder connection. You could try loosening the nut just enough thatthe regulator will move and rotate it back and forth a tiny bit and then retighten the nut.I've had this work quite often. If this does not work check the male side of the cylinder connectionas Louie stated.The small bubbles look like they are coming from the small connections that screw into the regulator body.You could try tightening them SLIGHTLY and see if that reduces or eliminates the leaks.If it does not you will need to remove them to confirm what sealing method they use and whether you canuse teflon tape.If you do confirm that it is tapered pipe thread then apply 1-1/2 to 2 wraps of teflon tape.Any more than that does no good.
Reply:HTP america sells good flow meters cheap. https://usaweld.com/products/flowmet...2443502a&_ss=rI have had great success with the cheap ones from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Argon-Regulat...s%2C201&sr=8-6Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:

Originally Posted by vdotmatrix

You know I thought it was odd that I have burned through 500psi of AR just running a few beads since I got another bottle a few weeks ago. From 1500 to about 1000psi.....I dabbed some gas leak detector in some likely places and GASPED.All these fittings are tight. The instructions said NOT to use teflon tape.Now what?
Reply:They are just leaks. Fix them. Just remove the nipple out of the regulator and add a few wraps of telfon tape and reinstall. The seal to the valve isn't going to be any better with a new regulator if it is the valve dirty or a burr on it. That you have to look at and see what is up. Are you sure you are really cranking it on really tight ? If it is clean and no obvious burr then tighten it just snug and twist it a few times then crank it down really tight and it should seal. You can buy nipples with orings that are made for hand knob tightening but use your nut on it and tighten as usual and they do not leak.I would suspect unless you left the tank on you got more leaks somewhere. Those leaks would need 24 hour to leak out 500psi. The time it takes to run a few beads 500 psi didn't excape from those leaks. Ok 100 for the weld but not 400 out those leaks in one hour I do not believe.Last edited by danielplace; 1 Day Ago at 03:59 PM.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Louie1961

HTP america sells good flow meters cheap. https://usaweld.com/products/flowmet...2443502a&_ss=rI have had great success with the cheap ones from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Argon-Regulat...s%2C201&sr=8-6
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The bottle doesnt seem to have any nicks or burrs and neither does the 580? I highlighted areas I want to ask about and whether I should wrap these with teflon.... i need to go back and number these for clarity.

Attached Images

Magnus 140 MIGAHP 201xd
Reply:

Originally Posted by vdotmatrix

Thanks man….right now the regulator is such that it is hard to see the dial or read the flow meter because of how it sit on my cart.I was looking at one that screwed in from the other side so it could stick out and i could see it from the front….like this one that seems to be more accurate at lower cfms…https://www.amazon.com/Victor-Inert-...cm_wl_huc_itemAHP wrote me back and although he couldn't recommend any particular regulator, the fittings were specific….are these industry standard fittings?“I will say that you will need the correct fitting on the hose line to hook up the welder. The link I’ve provided has the correct fitting.  “https://www.everlastgenerators.com/p...lug-argon-hose
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Originally Posted by danielplace

The fittings for these are the standard that a premade professionally crimped hose would have. That fitting you posted is proper threads butis barb type for making your own hose which is ok but suggest to stick with a quality premade one. The threads of the inlet fitting is not where we are suggesting a burr may be. It isn't the threads that seal at all. Burrs don't really even matter there if it threads in threads are good. Just the large taper the face of that and the matching female portion up in the valve are what mate to form the seal. Inspect them for damage. If clean try again just tighter.
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Originally Posted by vdotmatrix

teflon tape at 1 and 3?
Reply:

Originally Posted by Weldalittle

I would definitely tape 1 and 3.
Reply:

Originally Posted by danielplace

The fittings for these are the standard that a premade professionally crimped hose would have. That fitting you posted is proper threads butis barb type for making your own hose which is ok but suggest to stick with a quality premade one. The threads of the inlet fitting is not where we are suggesting a burr may be. It isn't the threads that seal at all. Burrs don't really even matter there if it threads in threads are good. Just the large taper the face of that and the matching female portion up in the valve are what mate to form the seal. Inspect them for damage. If clean try again just tighter.
Reply:

Originally Posted by rexcormack

The smaller the bubbles the smaller the leak.Start with the big leaks first and work you way down.You should not use teflon tape on any threads except TAPERED pipe threads.Straight thread fittings seal by means of a tapered seat or some sort of sealing "washer".I've been in the pressure industry for 43 years and I can't tell you how many times I have fixeda customers leak by removing teflon tape from connections where it shouldnot have been including oring sealed fittings.

The big leak is at the cylinder connection. You could try loosening the nut just enough thatthe regulator will move and rotate it back and forth a tiny bit and then retighten the nut.I've had this work quite often. If this does not work check the male side of the cylinder connectionas Louie stated.The small bubbles look like they are coming from the small connections that screw into the regulator body.You could try tightening them SLIGHTLY and see if that reduces or eliminates the leaks.If it does not you will need to remove them to confirm what sealing method they use and whether you canuse teflon tape.If you do confirm that it is tapered pipe thread then apply 1-1/2 to 2 wraps of teflon tape.Any more than that does no good.
Reply:

Originally Posted by danielplace

They are just leaks. Fix them. Just remove the nipple out of the regulator and add a few wraps of telfon tape and reinstall. The seal to the valve isn't going to be any better with a new regulator if it is the valve dirty or a burr on it. That you have to look at and see what is up. Are you sure you are really cranking it on really tight ? If it is clean and no obvious burr then tighten it just snug and twist it a few times then crank it down really tight and it should seal. You can buy nipples with orings that are made for hand knob tightening but use your nut on it and tighten as usual and they do not leak.I would suspect unless you left the tank on you got more leaks somewhere. Those leaks would need 24 hour to leak out 500psi. The time it takes to run a few beads 500 psi didn't excape from those leaks. Ok 100 for the weld but not 400 out those leaks in one hour I do not believe.
Reply:The sealing face of the male fitting that screws intothe bottle(#6)looks damaged in the picture. Maybe it’s just the pic, but it looks scored. How does the matingsurface in the cylinder valve look?Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:

Originally Posted by jpump5

The sealing face of the male fitting that screws intothe bottle(#6)looks damaged in the picture. Maybe it’s just the pic, but it looks scored. How does the matingsurface in the cylinder valve look?
Reply:For better or worse, took off the fitting and it is tapered. It also had some schmegma on the threads . Dunno if this some kind of chinese pipe dope or what.


Magnus 140 MIGAHP 201xd
Reply:WELL HERE IS SOMETHING I HAVE NEVER SEEN IN THE ALMOST 3 years of owning this welder. The bottle pressure in the lines is holding as if I were welding. I tweaked the fk out of the nuts after I wrapped the suspect fittings and ran a few beads and hour ago. I came back in and saw the gauge, Uh NO LEAKS! I RE-tested all the fittings, no bubbles-no troubles.Still like the Victor Edge 2.0!Thanks to everyone for guidance!

Magnus 140 MIGAHP 201xd
Reply:

Originally Posted by 455dan

I bought this one  when my old Argon reg  started leaking.  No leaks. and a 2 year warranty. Good quality for the price.https://usaweld.com/products/flowmeter?gclid=Cj0KCQiA3rKQBhCNARIsACUEW_YFnMgPrDqzU1JGYCLf  j_4n9fuTB2cLa4WK1KGpfpCiPlJo3OHQZgYaAgtFEALw_wcB
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Originally Posted by lugweld

Same supplier I believe.