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This is the one I bent like a noodle a few weeks back


The thing wouldn't budge, so the area where the bend occurred had to be slit, and cut off.

The cut off section has some damage, and wouldn't have slid off unless it was slit.

Taking a look at the bend, and where heat will be required to straighten in. The heat is applied to the top flange, and both sides, in the pie shaped pattern, then hit with water to hasten the shrinking process. Nary a hammer, or heavy object will touch this piece. It's all a heat shrinking process.


Damage to the inner tube from cutting the section of outer tube is filled, and ground flush. I don't do MIG, so y'all can just kiss my butt


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The clamps are tightened a bit, not too much. Very little force is needed...............the clamps are mainly for restraint.....keeping the metal from expanding beyond the upset point. They'll loosen once the steel starts to shrink. Heat is kept to around 1200*

Here you can see how the heat is applied. I generally don't need to go beyond the neutral axis on tubing. Depends on the severity of the bend. This piece took about 3 different heating cycles in 3 places to get it straight.


Get back to it tomorrow. Put the cut off piece back on, and then focus on either straightening, or replacing, the thingy that pins the jack to the baler.
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The main tube was also bent, and had to be smoogied. Shrining was made easy by using the inner tube to apply the necessary force when retracted.

Inner tube is blued to see where the interference is.

Just that one spot was hanging it up.Cut off portion was reattached using scabs/fishplates. The welds look like someone at Vo Tech did 'em. Earliest they can take me for the cataracts is in late December.

Fully extended.

Fully retracted past the previously damaged portion. I guess it's a success

The square tubing that attaches the jack to the baler was heat worked, not heat shrunk. It was heated to orange, a bar inserted in the holes, and twisted back into rough shape.
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Ready to go The baler was on a hydraulic jack (all my cribbing is in use on other stuff, and the equipment stand is under the Allis), which shifted, and the baler fell off. It's still under the tongue. I'm hoping the pickup reel wasn't damaged when the baler fell. I believe the baler weighs somewhere near 5K, with a huge proportion of the weight on the tongue. I guess we'll find out when I put the little crane back on the Oliver to lift it up today.
Reply:Looks good. Probably better than new but I would likely have gone this route here and that's CAD$: https://www.princessauto.com/en/5000...t/PA0008051013---Meltedmetal
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Originally Posted by Meltedmetal

Looks good. Probably better than new but I would likely have gone this route here and that's CAD$: https://www.princessauto.com/en/5000...t/PA0008051013
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Originally Posted by whtbaron

Me too, but here's the route I would have gone. https://www.princessauto.com/en/5000...t/PA0008055055I've been picking up the 5,000 to 8,000 lb drop legs that weld on for most of my equipment and I love em. I can usually pick them up on sale for $40 to $60 Cdn. They don't shift sideways when you try to unhook like the pinned versions do. Just Chinese junk, but I have yet to have problems with one. I did the same thing Sam did with a rented spreader and replaced the bottom piece with new square tubing drilled full of holes and welded to the original base. It was also a weld on drop leg so no issues with where it attached to the frame.
Reply:Sam. A few old railway ties Sawn into 18" lengths make perfect stands for placing under any jacked up equipmentI always have a few handy and wouldn't go under anything without placing them first.Just a suggestion I find very handy and safe.
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Originally Posted by Josey

Sam. A few old railway ties Sawn into 18" lengths make perfect stands for placing under any jacked up equipmentI always have a few handy and wouldn't go under anything without placing them first.Just a suggestion I find very handy and safe. |
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