HF 4 in. x 6 in. Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Band Saw. Is it any good?

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I am thinking of buying a HF 4 in. x 6 in. Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Band Saw. Is it any good? Does it cut straight? Any issues that i should know of? What are the best blades to use? What TPI for cutting mild steel? Whats the best brand blade?Last edited by Need Advice; 5 Days Ago at 06:45 PM.
Reply:I had a Baleigh 4x6 first and I couldn't make the thing cut straight to save my life. I bought it used and it was just too used abused. I then bought a new one from Harbor Freight with a coupon and it cost me a shade over $200. I LOVE IT. It needed some blade guide bearing adjustment right out of the box, and the blade tension needed adjustment, but other than that, it cuts pretty darned straight. You have to use the correct blade for the job (correct teeth per inch) and you have to change blades when it gets dull or it won't cut straight at all. But using the Harbor Freight brand blades I have been really satisfied. YMMV, but for me it has worked out well.Miller Multimatic 255
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Originally Posted by Louie1961

I had a Baleigh 4x6 first and I couldn't make the thing cut straight to save my life. I bought it used and it was just too used abused. I then bought a new one from Harbor Freight with a coupon and it cost me a shade over $200. I LOVE IT. It needed some blade guide bearing adjustment right out of the box, and the blade tension needed adjustment, but other than that, it cuts pretty darned straight. You have to use the correct blade for the job (correct teeth per inch) and you have to change blades when it gets dull or it won't cut straight at all. But using the Harbor Freight brand blades I have been really satisfied. YMMV, but for me it has worked out well.
Reply:I use one and also love it.  Make angle jigs for clamping, and get a good blade after you wear out the stock blade.It's not the fastest (unless doing gang cuts) but it cuts relatively quiet, fast, and clean, and cuts very accurately.  All the chips end up in a nice little area ready to be cleaned up.It's hard to beat a vertical bandsaw for detail metal cutting and fast little adjustments.  I use my portaband in a simple stand (handles fit into hooks on the stand), but same idea.Set it and forget it - you can basically start the cut and walk away.  Used to be a REALLY good deal with the right coupons, but might still be the best deal in town.Last edited by SlowBlues; 5 Days Ago at 07:14 PM.
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Originally Posted by SlowBlues

I use one and also love it.  Make angle jigs for clamping, and get a good blade after you wear out the stock blade.It's not the fastest (unless doing gang cuts) but it cuts relatively quiet, fast, and clean, and cuts very accurately.  All the chips end up in a nice little area ready to be cleaned up.It's hard to beat a vertical bandsaw for detail metal cutting and fast little adjustments.  I use my portaband in a simple stand (handles fit into hooks on the stand), but same idea.Set it and forget it - you can basically start the cut and walk away.  Used to be a REALLY good deal with the right coupons, but might still be the best deal in town.
Reply:It great small band saw.I have own 3 over 40 years I have one for small shop today I purchased in 2005.Dave

Originally Posted by Need Advice

I am thinking of buying a HF 4 in. x 6 in. Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Band Saw. Is it any good? Does it cut straight? Any issues that i should know of? What are the best blades to use? What TPI for cutting mild steel? Whats the best brand blade?
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Originally Posted by smithdoor

It great small band saw.I have own 3 over 40 years I have one for small shop today I purchased in 2005.Dave
Reply:From your other thread, I believe this is a good solution for you. I had a used one I used for 4-5 years and was very satisfied. I sold it for more than I paid when I bought an old Kalamazoo saw. The factory stand is a little light so I built a heavy duty one. Put a good bimetal blade on it and look up ways to tune and true it. You will be happy that it is quiet and clean. Pick a blade that has 3-4 teeth in the cut based on what you are cutting. I leave a 10-14 blade on mine.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:From your other thread, I believe this is a good solution for you
Reply:I posted about my HF saw in your other post. Mine is still cutting well and was definitely worth the money. If you search, you'll see posts about bandsaw. This Femi saw is popular because of its mitering head. It's $600.00 but it should be considered. Many power tools are costly but it's an investment too.  I bought an ELLIS 1600 finally, after debating on it for a couple years. That waiting cost me hundreds and now it's a lot more money. https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782..._00_0_000_2209Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by wb4rt

From your other thread, I believe this is a good solution for you. I had a used one I used for 4-5 years and was very satisfied. I sold it for more than I paid when I bought an old Kalamazoo saw. The factory stand is a little light so I built a heavy duty one. Put a good bimetal blade on it and look up ways to tune and true it. You will be happy that it is quiet and clean. Pick a blade that has 3-4 teeth in the cut based on what you are cutting. I leave a 10-14 blade on mine.
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Originally Posted by Louie1961

It may be a BETTER solution than using a template and any other method of cutting. IMHO you don't want all your roses looking the same. So freehand cutting them on a vertical band saw may add just enough uniqueness to each piece. I would bet you will get pretty fast at cutting these freehand as well. You can cut down sheet steel into appropriate sized squares with a circular saw and a metal cutting blade, then free hand these on the band saw. Maybe even your current hand held band saw converted for vertical use with one of these SWAG off-road portaband tables.  https://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-V10...ble-_p_64.html
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Originally Posted by BD1

I posted about my HF saw in your other post. Mine is still cutting well and was definitely worth the money. If you search, you'll see posts about bandsaw. This Femi saw is popular because of its mitering head. It's $600.00 but it should be considered. Many power tools are costly but it's an investment too.  I bought an ELLIS 1600 finally, after debating on it for a couple years. That waiting cost me hundreds and now it's a lot more money. https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782..._00_0_000_2209Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by Need Advice

I saw that Swag bandsaw stand, i may get it or make my own. I was thinking also about using a bandsaw to cut out those rose blanks but i wasn't sure if it could cut the curves or not.
Reply:Another (but not necessarily practical) option would be keep an eye out for a wood bandsaw, and add speed reduction for metal cutting. This is the cheap used Jet I picked up years ago....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1048eb751c.jpgThis photo shows the reduction gearbox I added. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4270fda3d7.jpgThis is a vintage Delta bench mount I inherited from my uncle which is dedicated for cutting aluminum....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3fbdadff9a.jpgSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
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Originally Posted by BD1

I would definitely make my own stand for portaband. There's lots of members post with there version. Here's some posts. https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...rtaband+standshttps://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...rtaband+stands
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Originally Posted by Lis2323

Another (but not necessarily practical) option would be keep an eye out for a wood bandsaw, and add speed reduction for metal cutting. This is the cheap used Jet I picked up years ago....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1048eb751c.jpgThis photo shows the reduction gearbox I added. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4270fda3d7.jpgThis is a vintage Delta bench mount I inherited from my uncle which is dedicated for cutting aluminum....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3fbdadff9a.jpgSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by Lis2323

Another (but not necessarily practical) option would be keep an eye out for a wood bandsaw, and add speed reduction for metal cutting. This is the cheap used Jet I picked up years ago....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1048eb751c.jpgThis photo shows the reduction gearbox I added. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4270fda3d7.jpgThis is a vintage Delta bench mount I inherited from my uncle which is dedicated for cutting aluminum....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3fbdadff9a.jpgSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by M J D

That's what I would do before buying a porta band and the table. I still have my homemade stand with a Milwaukee saw but it's very limited. I picked up a 14" Rockwell band saw and it's night and day compared to the porta band on a stand. Much larger table and cutting depth is the biggest difference. Another huge factor is on the Rockwell, I can lower the upper guide just over the work. Not only is having the kind close, much safer it's also much easier to maintain blade accuracy. Mine is the wood and metal cutting model but doing the low speed conversion is pretty easy to do and not overly expensive. With a new portable band saw and the swag table I'm guessing you would have 450-500$ or so in it. I know I could get a used 14" saw and purchase a new gear reducer and put it together for less than the 500$ and have a much more useful tool. With that being said, it's not a replacement for a good working horizontal band saw .
Reply:This good saw it is California approved for green.Low cost in blades and keeps you young

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Best thing no batteries or power need.Dave

Originally Posted by Need Advice

I already have a porta band. I like the idea of having a small saw because my shop is small, but a large saw with a big table would be real nice.
Reply:

Originally Posted by smithdoor

This good saw it is California approved for green.Low cost in blades and keeps you young

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Best thing no batteries or power need.Dave
Reply:I have drawing on turning a hacksaw to power saw.The blades are so cheap and fits in a small workshop.  But I went and purchased a 4x6 saw. FYI I used torch till purchased the 4x6 saw.Dave

Originally Posted by Need Advice

lol, i would probably want to turn it into a power hacksaw.
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Originally Posted by smithdoor

I have drawing on turning a hacksaw to power saw.The blades are so cheap and fits in a small workshop.  But I went and purchased a 4x6 saw. FYI I used torch till purchased the 4x6 saw.Dave
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Originally Posted by Need Advice

I have a variable speed motor i was going to use for that purpose or a belt grinder/sander. I think the belt grinder might be the best use of that motor because a big belt grinder is expensive and i can build my own for about $200 to $300 dollars. Thanks for the links, i'll check them out.
Reply:When working in shop I had hacksaw hanging on rollaway. It save steps only used up to 1/2" round bars. Today I in my workshop I  use a 4x6 saw.Dave

Originally Posted by Lis2323

Growing up on the farm  I only used a hack saw and cutting torch From 1983 to about 2000 I used a 14” abrasive chop saw In 2000 I bought an import 7”x12” horizontal bandsaw. Only recently did I purchase a Makita dry cut saw. All tools have their pros and cons but I must say I can’t remember the last time I used my hacksaw.

Sent from my iPad using TapatalkAny vertical handsaw, even a portaband, will cut those curves pretty easily with the correct blade
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Originally Posted by smithdoor

I have drawing on turning a hacksaw to power saw.The blades are so cheap and fits in a small workshop.  But I went and purchased a 4x6 saw. FYI I used torch till purchased the 4x6 saw.Dave
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Originally Posted by Lis2323

I’m curious to know what variable speed motor you have.  Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by Louie1961

Any vertical handsaw, even a portaband, will cut those curves pretty easily with the correct blade
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Originally Posted by Need Advice

My variable speed motor is a 2.5 HP treadmill motor. Its a DC motor. Its small compared to other 2HP motors so I'm wondering how durable it will be. It says its rated for HD use.
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Originally Posted by Lis2323

Its a treadmill motor.  The “HD” most likely stands for heavy douche.  Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:I had one for years and had very few issues with it. It made 1,000's of cuts. I made a stand for mine because I had to move it around a lot and the stock stand would not take it. Look up some of my post under reebz or reebs. I posted modifications
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Originally Posted by Reebz

I had one for years and had very few issues with it. It made 1,000's of cuts. I made a stand for mine because I had to move it around a lot and the stock stand would not take it. Look up some of my post under reebz or reebs. I posted modifications
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Originally Posted by Need Advice

What kind of blade would i use for cutting curves?
Reply:Mine is the 6th post https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/5...hlight=bandsaw
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Originally Posted by Louie1961

Bi-metal blade is better than the plain steel blade, but I think teeth per inch (TPI) may be more important. The ones at HF are just fine. You need to use an appropriate TPI for the thickness of material you want to cut. If it were me I would try to go with 18-24 TPI.
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Originally Posted by Reebz

Mine is the 6th post https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/5...hlight=bandsaw
Reply:

Originally Posted by Need Advice

What kind of blade would i use for cutting curves?
Reply:The OP stated in another thread he wants to cut 20 gauge sheet steel to make metal roses. I also suggested a jig saw. In a band saw I really do think he'll need the higher tooth count for such thing material
Reply:20 gauge I would cut with aviation snips as far as tighter curves go. If I wàs using the band saw I would use the 14-18 blade. Beverley type shear would be another option for that material.Miller xmt304,  Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
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Originally Posted by M J D

Blade selection depends on thickness. 10-14 is a good general purpose, 14-18 tpi if your cutting really thin material. Anything finer,( higher number of teeth) is a waste of time and won't clear enough of a kerf for cutting curves. With a 1/2" wide blade, ( which your limited to with a HF 4x6" saw or a porta band) your limited in the minimum radius you can cut. About a 4" radius is the limit without relief cuts. The work around is to make relief cuts 90 degrees to the cut line. Spacing depending on the size of radius. For what you plan to do,( at least to my understanding) the 4x6 saw is about the perfect solution to what your cutting. Hole saws on a drill press is another way to make some tight radius cuts as well. I've cut out some parts that required a band saw, hole saw, belt grinder to shape outside and files to fine tune inside curves . A dedicated vertical saw really shines for that type of work as different width blades can be used. I've used a 10-14 tpi blade, 1/4" wide to do some pretty detailed cuts on 1/8" -1/4" material with my vertical saw. Lots of ways to do it. A jig saw with the material supported by 2" styrofoam works extremely well also
Reply:Hope for photo of new saw.Dave

Originally Posted by Need Advice

Thanks guys.
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Originally Posted by smithdoor

Hope for photo of new saw.Dave
Reply:I use mind on home repairs handy saw for around the home too.Dave

Originally Posted by Need Advice

It will be a while. I have house repairs I need to do first.
Reply:I use my band saws for wood stuff all the time as well!In vertical they're great for cutting out those odd shapes or angles, and in horizontal they make great big timber saws (will miter well too!).  A wood blade (6 tpi usually) will help but I never change it over.  I just make sure all metal chips/shavings/filings are off the surface for wood that will be seen (or it will embed itself and cause rusting problems down the line).
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Originally Posted by SlowBlues

I use my band saws for wood stuff all the time as well!In vertical they're great for cutting out those odd shapes or angles, and in horizontal they make great big timber saws (will miter well too!).  A wood blade (6 tpi usually) will help but I never change it over.  I just make sure all metal chips/shavings/filings are off the surface for wood that will be seen (or it will embed itself and cause rusting problems down the line).
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Originally Posted by smithdoor

I use mind on home repairs handy saw for around the home too.Dave
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Originally Posted by Need Advice

I'm excited about getting this saw but i have electrical and heating repairs i need to do first. I need a wire tracer so i can pinpoint a bad circuit, and i might need new wire as well. I had to change all the receptacles in my house which fixed one problem but i still have one bad circuit and I'm not sure why.
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Originally Posted by BD1

Depending on what is on the circuit, routing, and accessiblity, it maybe best to abandon and run new Romex or conduit to those locations. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Conduit and gas lines saw works greatFYI I found replacing is faster that tracing. If one bad spot there a new bad spot tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Need Advice

I'm excited about getting this saw but i have electrical and heating repairs i need to do first. I need a wire tracer so i can pinpoint a bad circuit, and i might need new wire as well. I had to change all the receptacles in my house which fixed one problem but i still have one bad circuit and I'm not sure why.