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This project was to build a mount for a forward-facing camera for a power boat. The camera mount will attach to the bottom of the roof of the cockpit. The channel detail will be mounted to the bottom of the roof of the cockpit and will support the cables that go to the camera. The purpose of the camera is to provide excellent forward visibility even when the boat occupants are in sub-optimal locations. The first picture shows my friend and customer Ray holding the completed camera mount. It is ready for powder coating.1. Camera Mount

This was mostly a machining project, but I did have one weldment. Unfortunately, the weld maxed out my Miller Dynasty 200 DX welder. The foot was ¾ x 1 x 4 Aluminum and the channel was 1/8 x 1 x 2. I used the following parameters for the TIG weld:A/C Current output: 200 amps.Balance: 70% Electrode NegativeFrequency: 50 HzElectrode: 3/32 Tri Mix from Arc Zone.Shielding Gas: 75% Argon 25% HeShielding flow rate: 15 CFHBelow is picture of one weld and a second picture of the entire 8 weldment:2. Foot welded on

3. Entire channel

The next picture shows the access cover removed to gain access to the cable.4. Access cover removed

And here is the access cover installed.5. Access cover installed

Smith Oxyacetylene TorchMiller Dynasty 200DXLincoln SP-250 MIG WelderClausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe16" DuAll Saw15" Drill Press7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw20 Ton Arbor Press BridgeportLincoln LE 31 MP & Lincoln 210 MP
Reply:This is a picture of the camera mount all done.6. Camera mount done

I used my Bridgeport for most of the work, but I used a router table to make the radii on all of the parts:7. Router table setup

Here is a view from the camera. (As you can see the boat is still in its winter storage.)8. The cameras view

Here is a front view of the boat. The camera mount will be installed on the bottom of the roof of the cockpit.9. Front view of boat

Last but not least here is a side view of the boat for perspective.10. Side view of boat

-DonSmith Oxyacetylene TorchMiller Dynasty 200DXLincoln SP-250 MIG WelderClausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe16" DuAll Saw15" Drill Press7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw20 Ton Arbor Press BridgeportLincoln LE 31 MP & Lincoln 210 MP
Reply:Maybe I don't understand how this whole thing is supposed to work, but it looks to me like every component of the project was designed to capture and hold water around the cable. Tim
Reply:

Originally Posted by timrb

Maybe I don't understand how this whole thing is supposed to work, but it looks to me like every component of the project was designed to capture and hold water around the cable. Tim
Reply:Yeah, I'm gonna have to go with the theory that the camera manufacturer probably planned for water exposure, seeing how it was designed for boating. (FLIR-type system?) And I'll bet a nickel to a dollar I couldn't slide a gnats a$$-hair between that cord cover plate and the mount.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:In my experience it is often better to make items like this so the water can come and go as it pleases, sometimes trying to seal things up just causes water to get trapped.Mike
Reply:

Originally Posted by Don52

This project was to build a mount for a forward-facing camera for a power boat. The camera mount will attach to the bottom of the roof of the cockpit. The channel detail will be mounted to the bottom of the roof of the cockpit and will support the cables that go to the camera. The purpose of the camera is to provide excellent forward visibility even when the boat occupants are in sub-optimal locations. The first picture shows my friend and customer Ray holding the completed camera mount. It is ready for powder coating.1. Camera Mount

This was mostly a machining project, but I did have one weldment. Unfortunately, the weld maxed out my Miller Dynasty 200 DX welder. The foot was ¾ x 1 x 4 Aluminum and the channel was 1/8 x 1 x 2. I used the following parameters for the TIG weld:A/C Current output: 200 amps.Balance: 70% Electrode NegativeFrequency: 50 HzElectrode: 3/32 Tri Mix from Arc Zone.Shielding Gas: 75% Argon 25% HeShielding flow rate: 15 CFHBelow is picture of one weld and a second picture of the entire 8 weldment:2. Foot welded on

3. Entire channel

The next picture shows the access cover removed to gain access to the cable.4. Access cover removed

And here is the access cover installed.5. Access cover installed

Reply:

Originally Posted by William McCormick

If you clean the aluminum nicely, make sure it is a perfect fit up, you can use Straight polarity DC or DCEN. Do not pay attention to the slag that forms on the weld, just poke the welding rod into the molten puddle cook it in and move slightly forward and repeat. You can weld 1" thick aluminum like that. The bead is small but extremely strong. You have to wait till the heat builds up in part though before you start adding wire. I would suggest a practice piece before you try it on something you have a lot of work in. I have welded hundreds of feet using that technique it is an extremely strong weld, stronger than an AC weld. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:

Ya think they used stern cameras back in the day??




Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Ya think they used stern cameras back in the day??




Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Ya think they used stern cameras back in the day??




Reply:

Originally Posted by Don52

What a beautiful boat.-Don
Reply:We romanticize the old ships, but if you ever go on one, you see how they lived on those things. I can see why the press gangs had to be.
Reply:I've looked at some ships logs from that time, and you'd be amazed at how many people went overboard. YOU HAD TO GET ALONG WITH YOUR MATES IN THOSE DAYS, OR YOU'D BE TREADING WATER.
Reply:Anyways...........I like your work. Sometimes I bust your balz, but it's all for fun.
Reply:in fun
Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

It's the Morgan https://www.mysticseaport.org/explore/morgan/Was one of the first plastic model ships I built as a kid, that's why I remember it.
Reply:And this is what it looks like powder coated.

-DonSmith Oxyacetylene TorchMiller Dynasty 200DXLincoln SP-250 MIG WelderClausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe16" DuAll Saw15" Drill Press7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw20 Ton Arbor Press BridgeportLincoln LE 31 MP & Lincoln 210 MP
Reply:

Originally Posted by William McCormick

If you clean the aluminum nicely, make sure it is a perfect fit up, you can use Straight polarity DC or DCEN. Do not pay attention to the slag that forms on the weld, just poke the welding rod into the molten puddle cook it in and move slightly forward and repeat. You can weld 1" thick aluminum like that. The bead is small but extremely strong. You have to wait till the heat builds up in part though before you start adding wire. I would suggest a practice piece before you try it on something you have a lot of work in. I have welded hundreds of feet using that technique it is an extremely strong weld, stronger than an AC weld. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:I do apologize for insulting your intelligence William! Yes you are right it can be welded on dc- It did weaken the base metal a lot. Very easy to bend after welding, little tricky to get the rod in right too

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