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I'm repairing/upgrading a welder stand that was given to me. Not my welds. Considering that these awful things are in/near corners, how do I remove them so I can put down good welds? The stock is 1/4" angle. Saving the stand for scrap and building a new one is not really an option right now.I could weld the open areas in the top 2 but the bottom one needs to come out because I have to weld a piece of angle right where it is. There may be other welds that need to be fixed, I haven't checked thoroughly yet.Only thing I can think of is some kind of tapered burr on my die grinder. If that's the answer, what burr? Or is there a better way?
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Reply:Can you use a cutting wheel? I would cut it ehith the wheel and burr as little as possible but I think that may be the best way. Open for other options
Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:Hit the first two with a chisel and hammer. Put the chisel tip right at the bottom of the weld. It looks like there is no fusion so it may pop off.Sent from my SM-G996U using TapatalkMillermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.com
Reply:Even a small Dremel cutting wheel won't get all the way in.If a carbide bur is the best answer for the bottom one:1) Which one for speed, there are a bunch of types and styles2) How do you deal with the tiny metal shards getting flung off and the chatter?The top two look like they'd even come off with a putty knife (exaggeration).Last edited by JD1; 07-13-2021 at 02:53 PM.
Reply:If there is a weld on the back side of the ones in the first 2 pictures, cut it with a cutoff wheel, angle grinder , whatever you have and then take a pipe wrench and tip the angle towards the remaining weld. I don't think it will fight you much.---Meltedmetal
Reply:1/8" 7018, set the welder to about 160 amps, and weld over the existing welds,,The result will be beautiful, slightly oversize, ultra-strong welds,, that no one would question,,
Reply:I would use an air arc but people don't have one, a machine to run one or know how. Die grinder with a carbide Burr or a band sander
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
1/8" 7018, set the welder to about 160 amps, and weld over the existing welds,,The result will be beautiful, slightly oversize, ultra-strong welds,, that no one would question,,
Reply:A few of them look like you could break them off with your fingernail. Got a Popsickle stick or paint scraper?
Reply:If just looking for strength, then i would not bother removing them. There is plenty of other areas to weld that could be ground and contoured.Otherwise thin and twist to remove parts. Or just twist.
Reply:You are overthinking this IMHO. I wouldn't try to remove the old welds at all or even try to weld over them. In every one of those pictures, there were un-welded joints that you could zip up nice with your MIG welder or the stick rod of your choice. These joints don't need to be completely welded out for the weight a welding cart will hold. I would focus on the vertical joints, and just close those up nice.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:But,but.but............. He won't get a good night's sleep for weeks cause he knows they are there.
---Meltedmetal
Reply:And as usual nobody's mentioned the old tried and true scarfing tip.Ol' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:The top 2 are ugly but can be worked around. The bottom one needs to be removed, it's in the way. So I'll try MJD's suggestion of the carbide bur if I can find the right one. I think it will get into smaller places than a band sander.I would go with the scarfing tip but I don't have an OA setup.
Reply:A cutting wheel will allow you to cut what can and "V" it out to make decent welds. We had a welder at work who for the life of him couldn't get anything to wet in. He no longer works there but I used that method way too much for my preference. Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:
Originally Posted by Louie1961
You are overthinking this IMHO. I wouldn't try to remove the old welds at all or even try to weld over them. In every one of those pictures, there were un-welded joints that you could zip up nice with your MIG welder or the stick rod of your choice. These joints don't need to be completely welded out for the weight a welding cart will hold. I would focus on the vertical joints, and just close those up nice.
Reply:Yeah, the cost of burr bits and cutting wheels would almost exceed the cost of buying new steel and starting over.Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:The tree shaped burr should get in there pretty good. Certainly not the fastest way to remove metal but they fit in areas where other things can.
Reply:
Originally Posted by JD1
Even a small Dremel cutting wheel won't get all the way in.If a carbide bur is the best answer for the bottom one:1) Which one for speed, there are a bunch of types and styles2) How do you deal with the tiny metal shards getting flung off and the chatter?The top two look like they'd even come off with a putty knife (exaggeration).
Reply:Crank up the volts and burn a good new weld right next to them. Or use a chamfer electrode or cutting torch laid at an angle. Pretty basic stuff.Thermal Arc 320SP ( Lorch )Cobra PythonsThermal Arc 300 AC/DC ( Sanrex )ESAB 301i AC/DC ( Lorch )Thermal Arc 161STL ( WTL )Thermal Arc 190S ( Sanrex )Cut Master 82, 42. Cut45 ( WTL )Victor Gas Apps.Boxes and boxes of welding crap.
Reply:
Originally Posted by bead-boy
Yeah, the cost of burr bits and cutting wheels would almost exceed the cost of buying new steel and starting over.
Reply:the chinese death wheel
Reply:Use them as a template, and cope joints. The reassemble it in one plane.
Reply:I would bet that you could put a 12” Crescent on those pieces of angle and twist them right out of the weld.
Reply:Plasma cutter set to gouging. If no gouging mode, set to very low amperage in cutting mode and run the plasma arc over it with a slight weave motion, and it will sorta-gouge it out.
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Reply:carbide burr will get into the corner
Reply:
Originally Posted by Rondo
Crank up the volts and burn a good new weld right next to them. Or use a chamfer electrode or cutting torch laid at an angle. Pretty basic stuff.
Reply:Good Lord, chamfer electrodes, plasma cutters, gouging
IMHO, you're making this a thousand times more complicated than it needs to be.You could have fixed it forever in less time than it took to write the OP, with nothing more than one or two sticks of 1/8" 6010.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Kelvin
Good Lord, chamfer electrodes, plasma cutters, gouging
IMHO, you're making this a thousand times more complicated than it needs to be.You could have fixed it forever in less time than it took to write the OP, with nothing more than one or two sticks of 1/8" 6010.
Reply:You wouldn't remove it. You would just go over it, perhaps long-arcing it a bit to melt it all together. We're not making a nuclear pressure vessel.The resulting weld would be sufficiently strong to plop a locomotive on top of the stand. I suspect your inerter weighs less.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Kelvin
You wouldn't remove it. You would just go over it, perhaps long-arcing it a bit to melt it all together. We're not making a nuclear pressure vessel.The resulting weld would be sufficiently strong to plop a locomotive on top of the stand. I suspect your inerter weighs less.
Reply:To clarify a point or two that some are appearing to miss.1) Welds in the first two are not a problem. Can be fixed.2) Weld in #3 needs to be removed, it's in the way of something i'm going to do. No need to weld over it, that makes the problem worse.3) i do not have a plasma or cutting torch4) Leaving chamfer electrodes or carbide burs to do the job5) Chamfer electrodes are quicker and cheaper6) They're something new to learn and may be useful later
Reply:The welds are cold 🥶 I would grind off the old weld then re-weld at higher temperature for welding. Dave
Originally Posted by JD1
I'm repairing/upgrading a welder stand that was given to me. Not my welds. Considering that these awful things are in/near corners, how do I remove them so I can put down good welds? The stock is 1/4" angle. Saving the stand for scrap and building a new one is not really an option right now.I could weld the open areas in the top 2 but the bottom one needs to come out because I have to weld a piece of angle right where it is. There may be other welds that need to be fixed, I haven't checked thoroughly yet.Only thing I can think of is some kind of tapered burr on my die grinder. If that's the answer, what burr? Or is there a better way?
Reply:
Originally Posted by JD1
2) Weld in #3 needs to be removed, it's in the way of something i'm going to do. No need to weld over it, that makes the problem worse.
Reply:Thank you everyone for your help except for Kelvin. The rods are ordered from Grainger and will be here by Monday.And Kelvin, I have 6 RA grinders, one die grinder, many cutoff wheels, flap wheels, a portaband, a sawzall, a hand hacksaw, a horizontal/vertical bandsaw, and many other useful items. And sorry to disappoint you but none of those will get back into that corner and we are done debating.
Reply:A 10-year-old kid with even the most rudimentary metalworking skillz -- and with no more equipment than a couple welding rods, an angle grinder, a cutoff wheel, a grinding wheel and about 15 minutes -- could make that joint look exactly as it was supposed to look if it had been welded properly.Just because the OP can't do it, doesn't mean it can't be done.
Reply:Simple. Buy a plasma cutter that can gouge. Eazy peazy.
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Reply:Weld #3. I would slice right down the open seam and cut the weld, then reweld it. The most legit looking weld look like the one with the easiest access. The other i would twist or hammer apart. Of course, since the welder is right there....slice through the metal and weld it back.
Reply:I think most beginners would be better served working on their welding, grinding and fabricating skillz -- rather than their shopping and equipment collecting skillz.Shop skillz can get you past "lack of tools" far better than "lots of tools" can get you past "lack of shop skillz."
Reply:OK, I think it's been established that appearance is the issue and not strength. As was mentioned by Tapwelder and should be evident, the frame wasn't put together right in the first place. Any self respecting craftsman would cope the angle iron or cut it on a 45 deg. so is flat and smooth around the inside and not overlapped sitting on top of each other. Don't say you want to improve it because of appearance. It could be tig welded by the best weldor on the planet but the angle iron overlapped like it was thrown together in a hurry is a much bigger eyesore than the poor welds! Cut it apart and it will be easy to grind the bad welds off. You can probably cut a bunch of the bad welds out if you put your thinking cap on.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Kelvin
I think most beginners would be better served working on their welding, grinding and fabricating skillz -- rather than their shopping and equipment collecting skillz.Shop skillz can get you past "lack of tools" far better than "lots of tools" can get you past "lack of shop skillz."
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
While that may be true, you have to admit if he had a plasma cutter he would have solved the problem right away, which is what he wanted to do. So in this case it's not about the "number of tools", it's about having a better, more efficienttool. So much better and efficient, that it would have relegated this post quite possibly unnecessary. So I rest my case.
Reply:
Originally Posted by tapwelder
Still look like a hammer and wrench would have taken care of it faster than setting up a tool for this special occasion.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
Possibly. Mine is always setup and ready to go.
Reply:fast and easy:Band saw down the weld beadgouge out remaining bead with plasma/oxy acet./cabon rodCNC machine out 35 degree bevel on each side with a 1/16 landsand blasthot dip chemical wash6011 rootgrind and clean7018 capanealgrind down weldfinish surface grindingheat treatcnc logolaser etch name, date, and all material batch infopowder coathave a beverage of your choice, you're the king.Last edited by SlowBlues; 07-15-2021 at 12:58 AM.
Reply:on a serious note I would have:used a 1/4inch grinding disc to get what I could (the smaller the diameter the better)gotten the rest with a cut off wheelYou'll likely need to cut into the sidewall a bit - weld that too when done.should be faster than setting up any other equipment
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
While that may be true, you have to admit if he had a plasma cutter he would have solved the problem right away, which is what he wanted to do. So in this case it's not about the "number of tools", it's about having a better, more efficienttool. So much better and efficient, that it would have relegated this post quite possibly unnecessary. So I rest my case.
Reply:
Originally Posted by SlowBlues
fast and easy:Band saw down the weld beadgouge out remaining bead with plasma/oxy acet./cabon rodCNC machine out 35 degree bevel on each side with a 1/16 landsand blasthot dip chemical wash6011 rootgrind and clean7018 capanealgrind down weldfinish surface grindingheat treatcnc logolaser etch name, date, and all material batch infopowder coathave a beverage of your choice, you're the king.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oscar
While that may be true, you have to admit if he had a plasma cutter he would have solved the problem right away, which is what he wanted to do. So in this case it's not about the "number of tools", it's about having a better, more efficienttool. So much better and efficient, that it would have relegated this post quite possibly unnecessary. So I rest my case.
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:15:55