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I have the manual and it shows the plate is held onto a flat spot on the shaft with an allen screw which you can reach through a hole on top of the gear shield. I have loosened that screw and let the hole on the front sit for two days with PB Blaster and the plate still won't come off. You can insert a screwdriver in the lower hole on the back and whack it with a hammer but the plate won't budge.I need to get it off because some bearings are squealing real loud and that's the only way to get at them. I don't want to use something like a big gear puller because it will likely warp the aluminum plate. I can't get a torch in there to heat it up. I hate to throw whole machine out when all it probably needs is some grease but so far I can't figure out how to get in there by getting the plate off. You have to take the plate off to get at the bolt that holds the plastic gear housing on. Once you take that off you have free access to the squealing parts.Does anyone have any ideas?
Reply:Did you tip it on the plate so penatrant can run down vertical? Try heating the center of plate with a heat gun
Reply:Check to make sure there are not 2 setscrews in there.
Reply:Spray lube the bearings.
Reply:Take off the shroud and you will probably find the set screws... Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:I hate all the shrouds... no matter where they are always in my waySent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey. Mac
Reply:I would look for a set screw Most time there is a set screw You may have to remove the roll first.Here a manual showing a set screw. https://manuals.harborfreight.com/ma...7999/97181.pdfDave
Originally Posted by JD1
I have the manual and it shows the plate is held onto a flat spot on the shaft with an allen screw which you can reach through a hole on top of the gear shield. I have loosened that screw and let the hole on the front sit for two days with PB Blaster and the plate still won't come off. You can insert a screwdriver in the lower hole on the back and whack it with a hammer but the plate won't budge.I need to get it off because some bearings are squealing real loud and that's the only way to get at them. I don't want to use something like a big gear puller because it will likely warp the aluminum plate. I can't get a torch in there to heat it up. I hate to throw whole machine out when all it probably needs is some grease but so far I can't figure out how to get in there by getting the plate off. You have to take the plate off to get at the bolt that holds the plastic gear housing on. Once you take that off you have free access to the squealing parts.Does anyone have any ideas?
Reply:Heat is one good option. Torch the plate around that shaft area. There is potential to cook bearings if you get too crazy, but that depends on how far back the bearings are and how hot you go. A nice way to do this is to get it hot, then shoot some PB blaster on the shaft to cool it down and start beating. Ideally you want the plate hot and the shaft cold.Another good option is impact. If you have an air hammer, a few quick BRRRAAAPS with it might loosen it (you can get one super cheap too from HF or Northern if you want as you may never use it again). Also when hitting it from behind, you should rotate the plate between blows so it doesn't start to rack and bind up. If you can get the air hammer into that back hole, that might be a great way to loosen it. Keep turning the plate as you hit it.And as others said, make sure there isn't another set screw first...Last edited by davec; 11-07-2020 at 09:40 PM.-DaveXMT304 with: 22A Feeder, or HF251 Hi Freq DC TIG air cooled
Reply:JD1
Originally Posted by JD1
Does anyone have any ideas?
Reply:If there is only one set screw. Then rig a strap wrench and twist it. I have a similar craftsman sander, however I disposed of the disc years ago and replaced upsized the motor. Still pretty weak for metal work. No fun if younwarp it.
Reply:A lot of those older craftsman tools didn't use keys and a keyway, just a machined flat.
Reply:I don't think you can get the shroud off with the wheel still on, IIRC my HF has a second set screw @ 90* from the flat., I pulled the shroud off at that point & trashed it, it was ALWAYS in the way anyway.IMPEACH BIDEN!NRA LIFE MEMBERUNITWELD 175 AMP 3 IN1 DCMIDSTATES 300 AMP AC MACHINEGOD HELP AMERICA!Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.We didnt pass it to our children in the bloodstream".RONALD REAGAN
Reply:I'm sure you've looked and have read the manual but is there an allen head screw in the center of the plate?Ol' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:If it's due to galvanic corrosion it's like being welded together.The only time I've dealt with it was an aluminum seat post on a steel bicycle frame. I tried everything listed here to no avail, then someone turned me on to warm water, lye, and patience. Problem is it eats the aluminum. After taking the bottom bracket out I filled the frame tube with the mixture - swapping it out every day until day three it ate the entire bottom of the post and it came out. 20 years later - maybe there's a less caustic alternative - but a quick Google search didn't pull up much. This is an interesting idea:Heat and lots of it is the fastest way, but assuming you don’t have a rosebudd torch handy, one of the most effective looseners of galvanic corrosion on aluminum is water with some liquid detergent added to it. Heat will definitely help too, even if you only have a heat gun or hair drier. Apply the water, heat as much as you can and apply more water. Repeat these cycles and if you can get the water hot enough to boil, the steam pressure will help break down the corrosion by causing little explosions within the corrosion layer. Impact will also help.https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-be...%20also%20help.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:I heat stuff all the time to remove it.Usually, the trick is to apply force during the heating process. Heating only moves parts incrementally, and you have to have that constant pull on the part to see results.I don't see any way to get a puller on that, so the next best bet is have someone pry against it with two pry bars 180* apart while you apply heat.Very often it's difficult to heat a part to expand the hole. The heat will make the hole actually "shrink" as the material grows from the heat. The material will expand in ALL directions, including attempting to "fill in" the hole. My solution has always been to heat a small section of the pie close to the hole. This causes the metal to expand locally, and push against the circumference of the hole, thus expanding the hole. It's called "upset", and is the key ingredient to successful heat shrinking. But........because the effect is very small, and the metal cools rapidly, you need to keep force on the part to take advantage of that short period that the hole expands before it cools. You'll hear a ticking sound as it starts to move. Sometimes you have to do a few cycles to actually free it up.A heat spot as small as a dime is usually the way to go. You don't want to heat any kind of large area. With steel, I'll heat a dime sized area to dull red. I dunno what the color ranges are with aluminum,, but I'd get it pretty hot.The thing is on the verge of becoming scrap if the bearings seize. I'd take the risk of applying heat..........you don't have much to lose.
Reply:I'm assuming you can't get the shroud off till you get the wheel off. If I could get the shroud off, I do have pullers large enough to handle a wheel that big. I HAVE TWO BIG DRAWERS FULL OF PULLERS OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS
I deal with a lot of stuck stuff.
Reply:I had to search the Uranus Master Archives
Here's an example. A stuck part that had to be pulled.
The gear, and the pulley, were pulled in the same manner.
This is when the part actually moved. The puller was under a good deal of pressure, but not strained to breaking, which is how most people destroy their pullers. They're really not good at pulling parts that haven't been heated.
Notice that only a small section of the diameter was heated. Heat the whole thing,, and you'll never get it off easily, if at all.
Reply:The manual only shows a single 1/4-20 set screw on the flat of the shaft. There is an access hole in the top of the shroud at 12:00.https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/l...M/L0803415.pdf
Last edited by forhire; 11-08-2020 at 01:37 AM.
Reply:i have one of those sanders also. as best as possible, turn on side and support al. disc and use brass drift pin or other brass. drive shaft out of disc. it took me 5days of thinking how to do that and 10 minutes of doing. parts are available on eBay. had to replace relay on mine also from eBay.lincoln 125spmonkey wards 250 ac/dcmiller 211 w/spool gunahp 200 sx tiglotos ltp5000dof course duramax diesel
Reply:If you get it off be sure to replace the bearings with ones that have the rubber seals not the metal shields. The bearing number will have 2 RS in it meaning rubber seals on both sides. Why manufactures do not use these from the start is unknown.DIY CNC Plasma table USB BOB Price THCHypertherm 65Everlast PowerTig 255 EXTMiler 180 Mig13" metal latheMill/ DrillECT, ECT,
Reply:Drill and tap 3 holes, and use a steering wheel puller ?
Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:Thanks all, some interesting ideas. I'll answer a few comments - the shroud is bolted on with 1 bolt but you have to get the disc off to remove the shroud. There's only one allen screw and I loosened it a lot. The machine was on it's side for 2 days to allow the PB Blaster to soak down into the shaft. No allen screw in the center of the shaft.The idea of drilling and threading 3 holes to use with a puller is interesting but the aluminum is probably too thin to do that. It's thin with ribs on the back to support it.
Originally Posted by duramax-rob
i have one of those sanders also. as best as possible, turn on side and support al. disc and use brass drift pin or other brass. drive shaft out of disc. it took me 5days of thinking how to do that and 10 minutes of doing. parts are available on eBay. had to replace relay on mine also from eBay.
Reply:
Originally Posted by albrightree
Drill and tap 3 holes, and use a steering wheel puller ?
Reply:That is a good drawing.Shows what to do.Dave
Originally Posted by forhire
The manual only shows a single 1/4-20 set screw on the flat of the shaft. There is an access hole in the top of the shroud at 12:00.https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/l...M/L0803415.pdf
Reply:I too didn't understand duramax's procedure but I've learned to just let some things be. To the OP, when you get it off put a little antiseize on the shaft on reassembly for future disassembly.Ol' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop sawFYI if you a gear/pulley puller they will damage the disk If you have to disk you need to take the shaft & disk to arbor press.Dave
Originally Posted by JD1
I have the manual and it shows the plate is held onto a flat spot on the shaft with an allen screw which you can reach through a hole on top of the gear shield. I have loosened that screw and let the hole on the front sit for two days with PB Blaster and the plate still won't come off. You can insert a screwdriver in the lower hole on the back and whack it with a hammer but the plate won't budge.I need to get it off because some bearings are squealing real loud and that's the only way to get at them. I don't want to use something like a big gear puller because it will likely warp the aluminum plate. I can't get a torch in there to heat it up. I hate to throw whole machine out when all it probably needs is some grease but so far I can't figure out how to get in there by getting the plate off. You have to take the plate off to get at the bolt that holds the plastic gear housing on. Once you take that off you have free access to the squealing parts.Does anyone have any ideas?Attachment 1719004Attachment 1719005
Reply:Personally I would set the disc close to the wall with very little space and turn the switch on and off. Obviously there is a chance of it flying off and killing every nun , baby and puppy within a 73 mile radius so use caution.
Reply:
Originally Posted by M J D
Personally I would set the disc close to the wall with very little space and turn the switch on and off. Obviously there is a chance of it flying off and killing every nun , baby and puppy within a 73 mile radius so use caution.
Reply:This might be a shot in the dark, but you said you loosened the set screw a lot. But did you take it all of the way out? I have seen where a set screw is tightened on a shaft and a second set screw is screwed in on top of it to lock it to prevent it from loosening.
Reply:JD1
Originally Posted by JD1
Does anyone have any ideas?
Reply:The square opening on the back side of the shroud is like designed to allow you to drift it off. I'd likely use a short length dowel/wood through the opening. Give it a few taps, then rotate it, a few more taps, and just keep tapping and rotating until it comes off. Be patient and it should come off.
Reply:
Originally Posted by forhire
The square opening on the back side of the shroud is like designed to allow you to drift it off. I'd likely use a short length dowel/wood through the opening. Give it a few taps, then rotate it, a few more taps, and just keep tapping and rotating until it comes off. Be patient and it should come off.
Reply:forhire
Originally Posted by forhire
Be patient and it should come off.
Reply:You all do realize it is keyed to the shaft also. Not going to break it free with rotational force.Make certain setscrews are all fully removed and use a brass drift and tap the shaft out of it. Nice hole there in the middle to get it in there.Last edited by danielplace; 11-09-2020 at 09:14 AM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by danielplace
You all do realize it is keyed to the shaft also. Not going to break it free with rotational force.Make certain setscrews are all fully removed and use a brass drift and tap the shaft out of it. Nice hole there in the middle to get it in there.
Reply:
Originally Posted by J. D.
This might be a shot in the dark, but you said you loosened the set screw a lot. But did you take it all of the way out? I have seen where a set screw is tightened on a shaft and a second set screw is screwed in on top of it to lock it to prevent it from loosening.
Reply:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave
I found that on a piece of equipment once, forgot what it was though.
Reply:
Originally Posted by duramax-rob
i have one of those sanders also. as best as possible, turn on side and support al. disc and use brass drift pin or other brass. drive shaft out of disc. it took me 5days of thinking how to do that and 10 minutes of doing. parts are available on eBay. had to replace relay on mine also from eBay.
Reply:I would remove set screw then heat the disk with heat gun very hot then try pulling the disk off.If does not work then you pull the shaft and disk out and take to a arbor press.Dave
Originally Posted by J. D.
This might be a shot in the dark, but you said you loosened the set screw a lot. But did you take it all of the way out? I have seen where a set screw is tightened on a shaft and a second set screw is screwed in on top of it to lock it to prevent it from loosening.
Reply:Just for grins I tried the earlier suggestion of taking out the set screw then turning it on. However, I had a safe place under a shelf and put a thick panel of MDF in front of it. Turned it on and off 5 or 6 times, nothing happened. BTW, there's only one set screw in it.In order to press or punch the shaft out, I'd have to disassemble the whole end and there's at least one bolt you can't get at unless the cowling is taken off which won't come out until the plate is off.I'll try the suggestions of using a heat gun on it, then tapping a rod through the back hole and rotating it incrementally.As usual, I don't have a clue what Opus was talking about but since he mentioned it I do have the manual and have gone through it. As expected it doesn't explain how to remove a frozen on sanding plate.
Attached Images
Last edited by JD1; 11-09-2020 at 03:00 PM.
Reply:In order to press or punch the shaft out, I'd have to disassemble the whole end and there's at least one bolt you can't get at unless the cowling is taken off which won't come out until the plate is off.
Reply:I would have quit long ago.Use the belt and buy another with disc.
I only paid $25 for one and $30 for another. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by Louie1961
Just stick a punch in the hole in the disk and start hammering the punch. If the disk isn't press fit, it should break it loose. You shouldn't need to disassemble anything else at this point.
Reply:It's off!! The punch in the hole didn't do much but a careful bit of Mapp gas in a torch plus pounding from the back as I turned the disk did it. Although there's no such thing as a "simple project" everything else from here on should be pretty easy.Thank you all for your help!
Reply:Congrats!! Just remember the antiseize.Ol' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I knew there had to be some sorta flame involved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:Does MAPP gas involve Methane in some sorta way??
Reply:From Wiki.... "MAPP gas was a trademarked name, belonging to The Linde Group, and previously belonging to the Dow Chemical Company, for a fuel gas based on a stabilized mixture of methylacetylene (propyne) and propadiene. The name comes from the original chemical composition, methylacetylene-propadiene propane."I think the short answer to your question is yes, that looks like a methane/acetylene combination to me. More explanation on MAPP v.s. propane.... https://www.hunker.com/13415241/mapp-gas-vs-propane-gasLast edited by whtbaron; 11-10-2020 at 08:55 AM.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Just a thought but there might be two set screws holding it on sgaftSent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Reply:Apologize, thought this was new thread didn't scroll down to see responsesSent from my moto g power using Tapatalk |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:15:55