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Hello,I purchased this Hobart 210MVP many years ago and it has been flawless and problem-free since 2013. I used it yesterday with no problems in welding 1/8" and 1/4" mild steel using 0.035 wire with argon/co2 shielding gas. I only use 230V and not the 115V.However, today, on voltage setting 3 (trying to weld 1/8" mild steel), there is a lot of sputtering and the weld wire is pushing the metal and not causing the arc for a fraction of a second (sputtering). I tried voltage setting 4 and it works fine, but setting 3 and 2 does this.Can anyone help me figure out what is wrong with my welder? Does Hobart sell spare parts (like switch, dials, transformer, etc.)?Stan-- This space for rent. Inquire within.
Reply:I haven't been inside that model before, but I would start by checking the outlet and plug to anything loose. Then I'd check the work clamp and wire back to the terminal in the machine for anything loose. Then I'd check that the bolt securing the whip to the feeder is tight and the positive lead to the feeder is tight. It wouldn't hurt to remove the whip and blast it with compressed air and make sure the diffuser and contact tips are in good shape. Lastly I'd remove the cover, hit the inside with compressed air and take a look at the back of the rotary tap selector.Check out my bench vise website: http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
I haven't been inside that model before, but I would start by checking the outlet and plug to anything loose. Then I'd check the work clamp and wire back to the terminal in the machine for anything loose. Then I'd check that the bolt securing the whip to the feeder is tight and the positive lead to the feeder is tight. It wouldn't hurt to remove the whip and blast it with compressed air and make sure the diffuser and contact tips are in good shape. Lastly I'd remove the cover, hit the inside with compressed air and take a look at the back of the rotary tap selector.
Reply:Hi everyone,I checked the rotary switch (voltage adjustment) and the switch has continuity on the proper terminals (and open-circuit on the others). I tested all 7 positions. The inside of the chassis is very clean (because I keep in indoors.I tested the Hobart 210 MVP using the 115V plug and switched the settings to 4, 5, 6, 7. It has that odd sputtering problem on all of those 4 settings.So basically my welder will only work on voltage settings 4, 5, 6, and 7 using only the 230V plug. I can't weld thin materials at all. I tried calling Hobart tech support but they were closed.Anyone know of common problems with the 210 MVP?-- This space for rent. Inquire within.
Reply:Are you remembering to set WFS and voltage as a pair of variables?WFS is your amperage and controls penetration.Voltage controls the bead height and width. Need enough to make it run right at the WFS that is set.It's a balance, too little volts for the WFS causes the "problem" you describe.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave
Are you remembering to set WFS and voltage as a pair of variables?WFS is your amperage and controls penetration.Voltage controls the bead height and width. Need enough to make it run right at the WFS that is set.It's a balance, too little volts for the WFS causes the "problem" you describe.
Reply:
Originally Posted by stanward
I have been using this welder since 2013. Now that I am forced to use setting 4-7, I am burning holes in sheet metal.Also, I have been using the welder on Wednesday and had no problems on setting 3 with 1/8 steel. On Thursday, went to weld the exact same steel and can’t get it to weld right. I have my WFS set at 40 both times. I didn’t move the welder at all.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave
Turn your WFS down...WFS is your amps and controls penetration (depth of fusion).Volts are not your only variable.What setting does your door chart suggest?It's often very close.
Reply:Crap! I figured it out. One of my kids must've rotated the ArgonCO2 gas flow. It was off the charts beyond 60cfm (my meter only reads up to 60cfm). Turned it back down to 20 and all is well.-- This space for rent. Inquire within.
Reply:
Originally Posted by stanward
Crap! I figured it out. One of my kids must've rotated the ArgonCO2 gas flow. It was off the charts beyond 60cfm (my meter only reads up to 60cfm). Turned it back down to 20 and all is well.
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
Haha....now that's the kind of fix I like! Having had similar things happen....starting a weld with the valve closed, or the flow valve moved way off what it should be, now I try to make it a point to check the flow rate before I even try to weld anything. It's a lot easier than grinding out porosity and cussing at myself when I'm trying to get something done
Reply:
Originally Posted by stanward
Do they make a gas regulator that is lockable? The dial on mine is easy to spin.
Reply:I don't weld on a regular basis so I check my gas flow setting each time before I start....just a habit I startedBeen frustrating I know, but glad it was an easy fix.GreggHobart Handler 210 MVPHobart Stickmate 210i |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:14:56