Rusty Bobcat 225, ok to buy?

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Like the title says, I am looking at a rusty 225. Guy says it runs and welds in only one position. I assume the rotary switches are corroded inside. Are the switches hard to take apart to clean? Worth the risk to pick it up? Anything else a major concern with it being rusty/corroded?12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:Guy says it runs and welds in only one position. Overhead, Vertical Up, or Horizontal?????





Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Guy says it runs and welds in only one position. Overhead, Vertical Up, or Horizontal?????





Reply:Haven't heard from you in a while. There should be a fine time rotary rheostat that you turn to dial in your amps. Unlikely that's seized. Depending year and model there will be a rotary switch with different detents for amp range. And some for AC or DC weld output and CC or CV weld current. If it runs decent, puts out welder and generator power along with auto idle working it should be good with some cleaning up. Good luck with it.
Reply:Auto idle works, runs great, welds, and puts out power. Cant wait to tear into it!


12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:

Originally Posted by VPT

Auto idle works, runs great, welds, and puts out power. Cant wait to tear into it!



Reply:

Originally Posted by M J D

Haven't heard from you in a while. There should be a fine time rotary rheostat that you turn to dial in your amps. Unlikely that's seized. Depending year and model there will be a rotary switch with different detents for amp range. And some for AC or DC weld output and CC or CV weld current. If it runs decent, puts out welder and generator power along with auto idle working it should be good with some cleaning up. Good luck with it.
Reply:

Originally Posted by VPT

Yes it has been awhile, been super busy and haven't even had time to get on the computer and read threw some forums. Looking at lots of pictures of the bobcats I see some with covers and some without. Looking at mine There is a plastic liner around the opening and I dont see bolt holes or anything indicating that there was a cover. However I feel there should be a cover and do want to add one even if there never was one. It just doesnt seem right to let rain and junk to just fall on the motor.I first want to get the switches working right and make sure everything works as it should. Then I'd like to clean up all the electricals, connections, slip rings, ect. Then I have to figure out leads, I am going to keep my eyes open for a used set. I do have the stinger from my tig welder I never use but it is only 15-20ft long I think.After all that then I will start cleaning up and painting covers. I do want it to look nice eventually if it works like it should.The story I was told about the welder:The guys brother works for a company that has these on their trucks as generators. I dont think leads have even ever been hooked up to these machines. He also said not only do they have them for just generators they hardly get used. He buys them from the company when they get new trucks and welders. This one was one of two he got this time, he kept the other for himself. The one he kept worked like it should without any work so that is why he kept it. It also had only 300 hours on it. The one I got shows 65 hours. They get rusty from being on the trucks in WI winters. I am personally doubting the 65 hours, I am hoping to find some sort of tell tale if that is close to right or not. I am pretty excited, I've been wanting an engine drive for quite a few years but couldnt justify spending 2K on one as I'd only use it occasionally. This will be my project thread, I'll update as I go. I really appreciate any tips and insight as well!
Reply:I just had my bobcat burn out i gues its called the fine reostat,and it would only weld on high. on that one think it was a couple hundred dollar fix they get turned Up or down under load and it smokes themDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:Anyone have bobcat parts?We have a bad reactor.

Seems hard to get even used as they are a common thing to rust and quit working. Also assuming not very cheap either when found. I am sure many get tossed with machines that burnt up motors or generators. If anyone has a lead on one I'd be grateful! It is a 2006 225So it puts out power just fine, and welds in "wire" mode. Is it ok to stick weld in wire mode? Besides having more of a challenge welding is it bad for the machine? Just till (hopefully) I find a reactor for it.



The bad reactor. You can see the fins getting pushed out from rust.

Last edited by VPT; 06-14-2021 at 02:29 PM.12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:It will stick weld in wire mode but the arc will be choppy and erratic. That sucks about that part, but all in all that's the way it is with old machines
Reply:Rusty got put to work today. She powered my MM250 to weld some art together at a local art park. Already paying for itself! I just need a reactor for it.


12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:

Originally Posted by VPT

Rusty got put to work today. She powered my MM250 to weld some art together at a local art park. Already paying for itself! I just need a reactor for it.



Reply:Good to hear you got it done.
Reply:Glad the generator side is working well for you

How much did you get it for?Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:Yes everything works well besides the stick welding part. I was thinking, since the reactor is bad anyhow and it is not needed for generating power or "wire welding" I am going to pull it out and pull it apart to see whats what. Is it a silly idea to cut all new laminates on the plasma table, put together a new "block of steel" with the laminates, and wrap the copper myself to just make my own "reactor"?  The windings look to be super coarse, I'd guess close to 1/8" copper wire. I have rewound an electric motor once before and it worked like it should so I have a slight amount of experience winding copper. I am just most curious about the laminated block of steel. Is it as simple as just a bunch of steel plates laminated together? DOes their thickness matter? No insulated separation? Why couldnt it be a machined solid block?SquirmyPug, I paid $500 for the machine. Easy to make back in a couple jobs I figured. But I see it can be a rabbit hole now too. I'd like a feeder for it, TIG, dedicated trailer, lead reels, etc.  lol  But I am just very happy to finally have one. Having portability is very nice!12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:

Originally Posted by VPT

Yes everything works well besides the stick welding part. I was thinking, since the reactor is bad anyhow and it is not needed for generating power or "wire welding" I am going to pull it out and pull it apart to see whats what. Is it a silly idea to cut all new laminates on the plasma table, put together a new "block of steel" with the laminates, and wrap the copper myself to just make my own "reactor"?  The windings look to be super coarse, I'd guess close to 1/8" copper wire. I have rewound an electric motor once before and it worked like it should so I have a slight amount of experience winding copper. I am just most curious about the laminated block of steel. Is it as simple as just a bunch of steel plates laminated together? DOes their thickness matter? No insulated separation? Why couldnt it be a machined solid block?SquirmyPug, I paid $500 for the machine. Easy to make back in a couple jobs I figured. But I see it can be a rabbit hole now too. I'd like a feeder for it, TIG, dedicated trailer, lead reels, etc.  lol  But I am just very happy to finally have one. Having portability is very nice!
Reply:Even if you can't get a reactor, what about getting a small inverter stick/tig machine to run off the generator?   You could do that until you find a used reactor to replace it with that way you're only using the bobcat for most jobs.    For $500 I would be tempted too even though I just got my first generator welder a few weeks ago

at least your machine was running and mostly working

you might post over on the Miller section, might have someone over there that could help. I got lots of help with my aead200le.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power

) Hobart MIG
Reply:My Bobcat is 2006 Model. Bobcat 250, best I can tell it was put in the bottom of a truck, all the steel they ever welded was dumped on it. When I bought it it had 1200 hours, looked battered. I bought it 2014? $1200 leads were in rough shape.New leads, it worked.Always had to run with the choke out a little. Plastic was broken several places surrounding faceplate. At the time I bought it, I bought a new plastic surround & choke cable.This week eldest son Seth decreed: "The welder is running like $hit. I'm going to check it out."Choke issue was no clamp on the outer jacket of the choke cable. That solved the "running like $hit" issue. It got a bath, blow dry, filters, oil change, more Sta-Bil, A new plastic face.Onan engine, battered, 1700 hours, it works fine. I always wanted a trailblazer.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Willie B

My Bobcat is 2006 Model. Bobcat 250, best I can tell it was put in the bottom of a truck, all the steel they ever welded was dumped on it. When I bought it it had 1200 hours, looked battered. I bought it 2014? $1200 leads were in rough shape.New leads, it worked.Always had to run with the choke out a little. Plastic was broken several places surrounding faceplate. At the time I bought it, I bought a new plastic surround & choke cable.This week eldest son Seth decreed: "The welder is running like $hit. I'm going to check it out."Choke issue was no clamp on the outer jacket of the choke cable. That solved the "running like $hit" issue. It got a bath, blow dry, filters, oil change, more Sta-Bil, A new plastic face.Onan engine, battered, 1700 hours, it works fine. I always wanted a trailblazer.
Reply:

Originally Posted by SquirmyPug

Even if you can't get a reactor, what about getting a small inverter stick/tig machine to run off the generator?   You could do that until you find a used reactor to replace it with that way you're only using the bobcat for most jobs.    For $500 I would be tempted too even though I just got my first generator welder a few weeks ago

at least your machine was running and mostly working

you might post over on the Miller section, might have someone over there that could help. I got lots of help with my aead200le.
Reply:Might give these folks a try,https://arcsolinc.com/
Reply:

Originally Posted by vwguy3

Might give these folks a try,https://arcsolinc.com/
Reply:I wondered because they are a fairly large repair facility if they might have a unit you could buy for parts.You and I(and most anyone here) know that somewhere around there is a PILE of those machines.....taken out of service because of time, replaced and saved for back up, non repairable but saved for parts. The problem is finding one of those.
Reply:MGD said mosinee machine it's actually mosinee small motor they have a boatload of old welders they always treated me well but hard to get ahold of i usually just drive up there Sent from my SM-A515U1 using TapatalkMosinee motor and electric?  That was the first guy I called. He said he had 4 of the same machine there with the same problem. lolThank you everyone for all the information, tips, and insight to these things! I really appreciate it all!I have new information as well. The transformer was nothing like I thought it was. The laminations are all just 1" wide plates stacked together and then the "blocks" of laminations are used to box in the windings. The windings, turns out are 2-2.5" wide aluminum strips wrapped around a center "block" of laminations. Looking a bit closer now too I believe the connection of the wires to the aluminum strips are all bad. I haven't tried to actually tear apart the windings or connections yet but I can see corrosion where the wires meet the aluminum. Why copper to aluminum connections? Thats odd. Also now that I can see better I dont actually think the laminations are making contact with the aluminum windings. I think the problem is all in the connection of wire to the aluminum. No the laminations dont look good but I think it is mainly just the ones on the sides. I have to poke around more and see what I can see.I also see why it is so expensive now. The transformer and reactor or whatever that other things is are "one unit".


12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:

Originally Posted by vwguy3

You and I(and most anyone here) know that somewhere around there is a PILE of those machines.....taken out of service because of time, replaced and saved for back up, non repairable but saved for parts. The problem is finding one of those.
Reply:Is the reactor part of the circuit when the machine is welding in "AC" mode? was wondering if you can still weld in Alternating Current mode, without the reactor?It has been a long time since I turned on a BOBCAT, heck, they might not even have AC capabilities,,,From using my Thunderbolt, a LOT can be done in AC,, if you have the right rod,,,
Reply:

Originally Posted by SweetMK

Is the reactor part of the circuit when the machine is welding in "AC" mode? was wondering if you can still weld in Alternating Current mode, without the reactor?It has been a long time since I turned on a BOBCAT, heck, they might not even have AC capabilities,,,From using my Thunderbolt, a LOT can be done in AC,, if you have the right rod,,,
Reply:

Originally Posted by VPT

It looks like new inside. In fact the machine does show signs of only having the 66 hours it shows on the meter. Besides me playing with the switches I dont think they have ever been moved.
Reply:Very nice Gravely! You did an amazing job on it!If I can get this one part for my machine and make it work like it should I do plan to slowly clean it up and "restore" it. Nothing crazy, just a new faceplate, a couple new tins, new paint, and decal set.12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:

Originally Posted by VPT

Mosinee motor and electric?  That was the first guy I called. He said he had 4 of the same machine there with the same problem. lolThank you everyone for all the information, tips, and insight to these things! I really appreciate it all!I have new information as well. The transformer was nothing like I thought it was. The laminations are all just 1" wide plates stacked together and then the "blocks" of laminations are used to box in the windings. The windings, turns out are 2-2.5" wide aluminum strips wrapped around a center "block" of laminations. Looking a bit closer now too I believe the connection of the wires to the aluminum strips are all bad. I haven't tried to actually tear apart the windings or connections yet but I can see corrosion where the wires meet the aluminum. Why copper to aluminum connections? Thats odd. Also now that I can see better I dont actually think the laminations are making contact with the aluminum windings. I think the problem is all in the connection of wire to the aluminum. No the laminations dont look good but I think it is mainly just the ones on the sides. I have to poke around more and see what I can see.I also see why it is so expensive now. The transformer and reactor or whatever that other things is are "one unit".



Reply:No stick welding without the reactor. It is actually a tapped transformer, AC power comes from the stator windings, then gets stepped to the different taps for weld output. That gets rectified to DC through the big bridge rectifier. I'm surprised that the wire side works, I would think the current goes through it too, arent the coarse taps on the front of the machine also for wire settings?The other thing is a stabilizer, I believe its only used to smooth the arc on DC output, not AC.With all the corrosion, check the diodes in the rectifier, maybe they arent passing current either.I would go for fixing it, nothing to lose. You might want actual transformer type steel strips, IDK but I think they are individually coated, not sure if strips of plain steel will work right. I little googling might answer that.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Poleframer

No stick welding without the reactor. It is actually a tapped transformer, AC power comes from the stator windings, then gets stepped to the different taps for weld output. That gets rectified to DC through the big bridge rectifier. I'm surprised that the wire side works, I would think the current goes through it too, arent the coarse taps on the front of the machine also for wire settings?The other thing is a stabilizer, I believe its only used to smooth the arc on DC output, not AC.With all the corrosion, check the diodes in the rectifier, maybe they arent passing current either.I would go for fixing it, nothing to lose. You might want actual transformer type steel strips, IDK but I think they are individually coated, not sure if strips of plain steel will work right. I little googling might answer that.
Reply:Next best bet is to use the generator to run a 240v mig or stick welder if that part of it functions. You still did well on the machine, as it isn't a POS Harbor fright genny, you have good (not overrated) output on that machine. After years (heh, a couple decades) just running stick off my miller legend, I now mostly run a couple wire feeders off it, one 115v (miller 130) an the other 240v (hobart 200 beta to a 8vs suitcase) and an pleased with how that works. I like having a 115v welder with .023 wire and a bigger setup with .035, less fussing around, with stick (and bad me arc gouge

when the situation calls.
Reply:

Originally Posted by M J D

Man that looks like it came out of a fertilizer plant. Crazy how that just came apart. I can ask my sales rep for Mississippi welders supply if they have any parts machines as they are a repair center for most brands of welders.
Reply:Thats the spirit! You will go far, grasshopper.
Reply:I don't know how to sugar coat this. It's beyond feasible repair. Stop this, move on to productive endeavors.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...Anull%7D%22%7Dhope this link shows properly...there is a fella selling a faceplate for a bobcat...if you have interest.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Poleframer

Thats the spirit! You will go far, grasshopper.
Reply:Let's see. $500 for original purchase - good deal.$1100 for reactor/stab - Darn, but I'm still OK.$300 (estimate) for new faceplate, sheetmetal repair, paint.OK, I'm at $1900 for a $2000 machine - not trying to resell it, I'm gonna use it.I am still OK.
Reply:

Originally Posted by cwby

Let's see. $500 for original purchase - good deal.$1100 for reactor/stab - Darn, but I'm still OK.$300 (estimate) for new faceplate, sheetmetal repair, paint.OK, I'm at $1900 for a $2000 machine - not trying to resell it, I'm gonna use it.I am still OK.
Reply:

Originally Posted by VPT

They can get a new one, but, $1163.63.
Reply:The connections from aluminum to the wires were all bad.


There was a wire at the end of the last wrap, 5 wraps, then another wire, then another 5 wraps, wire, 4 wraps, wire. I initially thought there would be a separate winding for each tap but instead there is a singe input wire to the aluminum winding then an output wire every 4-5 wraps that goes to the tap switch.

So I copied the same idea, One input wire, then one output at 4 wraps, then another at 5 wraps more, and the final output after the last 5 wraps. It got tight the last couple times around.

This is the amount of laminate plates I took out. I didnt get an exact count but it was quite a lot less than I thought it would have been.

All done, ready to go to the party.

12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:Looks like it's working decent. Does it seem like your getting close to the set amps? Hard to believe how destroyed those windings were.
Reply:[QUOTE=VPT;8817513]Worth the try I figure.Is this reverse psychology?  I am a stuborn mule.No, the advice I would give my son. This machine is spanked. I first thought you were concerned about cosmetics.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:

Originally Posted by M J D

Looks like it's working decent. Does it seem like your getting close to the set amps? Hard to believe how destroyed those windings were.
Reply:

Originally Posted by VPT

There is a distinct difference between the tap settings. I didn't play with the rheostat much though. It definitely seems to put out very good power the little bit I did play with it.  I am very happy with it so far, I'm glad it works!
Reply:The old story "We have done so much with so little, for so long, we now can do anything with nothing"


It pays to stick with a project.

DIY CNC Plasma table USB BOB Price THCHypertherm 65Everlast PowerTig 255 EXTMiler 180 Mig13" metal latheMill/ DrillECT, ECT,
Reply:Hey VPT,   Saw this on FB MP :   https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...9386054703110/Not sure if that helps you or if you already saw it, but thought I better post.Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300