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fillet welding with stick

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发表于 2021-9-1 23:14:03 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Hello all,I recently got into welding. It is a hobby for me. I want to make some stuff, smoker, pizza oven, etc. I wanted to take a welding class, but the only welding schools near me are really intensive 8 hour per day for 36 weeks courses, which don't work for me. No one offers a weekend crash course, or even a night course. So I have been teaching myself, reading everything I can and watching YouTube.I bought a DC stick welder and got some practice coupons. I can lay a pretty straight bead. I am still trying to get the hang of proper voltage. I think most times I am running too hot. But that is a different issue. I have been trying to get the hang of fillet welds. I set up my pieces, I tack them together, and run a 3/32 6013 at a 45 degree angle into the corner, just like they do in the YouTube videos. I have tried running straight beads and little circles and from the slag it looks like I am fusing both sides into the fillet, but when I break off the slag, I either got weld on the top plate or the bottom plate and no real fusion between the 2. Does anyone have any pointers? What am I doing wrong?Thanks
Reply:Learn to watch the puddle, not the arc, & not the molten slag puddle. Slag will be a slightly different color/texture than the metal puddle. Once you can see the puddle, you can see when it washes in to each side.Try a thicker coupon so you can slow down a little & see what is happening under the arc - 1. arc flare, 2. slag puddle, & 3. metal puddle.
Reply:6013 has a LOT of slag. I think you would be better off trying something with a more defined puddle...6011, 7018 both have well defined puddles. 7018 can be run as a drag rod if needed. It won't give you the optimal weld, but its better to run the arc too short than too long with 7018. Also try slowing down and letting the puddle fill out more.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Thank you both, I will try your suggestions, I thought I was watching the metal puddle on the sides, but I guess what I was looking at was just the slag puddle. I have some 6011. It is a really hard to use, I end up just constantly sticking the rod. I wanted to try 7018, but I don't have a rod oven, it was my understanding just keeping them in the box they would spoil.Last edited by tryonix; 07-18-2021 at 04:06 PM.
Reply:you do not need a rod oven for 7018. Don't worry about it. for what you are doing, even "spoiled" rods will work fine. They don't actually spoil. They lose their low hydrogen properties, which really doesn't matter at all for what you are doing. Plenty of stuff is welded in this world with 7018 that never makes it to a rod oven.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:

Originally Posted by tryonix

Thank you both, I will try your suggestions, I thought I was watching the metal puddle on the sides, but I guess what I was looking at was just the slag puddle. I have some 6011. It is a really hard to use, I end up just constantly sticking the rod. I wanted to try 7018, but I don't have a rod oven, it was my understanding just keeping them in the box they would spoil.
Reply:Yea, I have this welder running on 120v https://www.amazon.com/DEKOPRO-Machi...+welder&sr=8-4I dunno if the link will show, it’s the DEKOPRO 110/220V MMA Welder,160A ARC Welder, cheap $130 welder on Amazon. I eventually want to get a nicer welder, wanted to make sure I could weld first before I invested a ton of money.I haven’t quite figured out how hot I should be running, I keep experimenting. I ran a bead on 50 amps and then at 120. I see penetration outline on the back of the plate in both cases. 120 melted the plate lol so I guess that was to hot. 80 seemed good. Trial and error I guess.
Reply:I'd forget 6013 try some 1/8" 7014 to start. Similar to 6013 but less chance of holes and lack of fusion from too much slag. Easier to see what the puddle is doing too. 1/8" should run in the 130+/- amp range. Experiment with the amps a little. 3/32" rods can be tricky for a beginner because they get hot and can bend. A 1/8" rod should burn 6 to 7 inches. For fillet welds I typically have the rod tilted down a little more to force the puddle up on the vertical piece. Your practice pieces should be at least 1/4" thick. If you want to test fillet welds, just weld one side of the T and then clamp the piece in a vice or to a good table and beat it back on itself from the other side. The weld should should break in the middle and not along the edges. Rods to try are 7014, 7018 and 6010/6011.
Reply:Thank you all for the help. I will try your suggestions.
Reply:

Originally Posted by tryonix

Yea, I have this welder running on 120v https://www.amazon.com/DEKOPRO-Machi...+welder&sr=8-4I dunno if the link will show, it’s the DEKOPRO 110/220V MMA Welder,160A ARC Welder, cheap $130 welder on Amazon. I eventually want to get a nicer welder, wanted to make sure I could weld first before I invested a ton of money.I haven’t quite figured out how hot I should be running, I keep experimenting. I ran a bead on 50 amps and then at 120. I see penetration outline on the back of the plate in both cases. 120 melted the plate lol so I guess that was to hot. 80 seemed good. Trial and error I guess.
Reply:Learning to distinguish and watch the molten metal puddle is the first step to controlling it, but it should come with practice.  60xx rods are usually hard with cheap inverters (they stick because they need a high open voltage is what I understand), moving to a 70xx might make a big difference in your case.If you're on 120v power keep the rod small.  85ish amps is usually the max I've seen good units (miller) pull from a 120v (20 amp), cheaper units will generally be much lower.  3/32 70xx rodHaving a general range for a rod/material and then having to find the sweet spot is an every weld thing, don't be too discouraged by it.  Many weldors adjust DURING the weld (remotes, or yelling at a helper to "UP THREE!").You're always fighting highly dynamic variables, and everyone has their preference. Good luck and have fun!
Reply:Thank you all for the help
Reply:Looks like you're getting lots of good advice. Welcome to the forum.
Reply:I am not a great welder,, or anything like that,, but, the welding leads I have for my "buzz box" welder cost more than the welder that is in the Amazon link,,Seriously,, It is possible that you are loosing too much voltage in your welding leads, to be able to weld some of the rods that have been mentioned.Good welding leads, made with serious copper,, will always be something you will use,,I would not be surprised if the leads that you are using are copper coated aluminum,, similar to the jumper cables Harbor Freight sells.Do you ever wonder why Harbor Freight jumper cables do not seem to start a car as well as real copper jumper cables?? That might be a first step in getting pretty looking welds.Oh, yea,, I am always amazed how much slag is associated with 6013 rod,,I ONLY use 6013 when I can weld with high amps, on a project that does not mean much to me,,I guess I should toss the 6013 rods I have, they are truly just taking up shelf space,,,
Reply:You are correct, it is not copper. I will upgrade stinger and clamp and see if that makes a difference, any suggestions on quality stinger or clamp?
Reply:

Originally Posted by tryonix

You are correct, it is not copper. I will upgrade stinger and clamp and see if that makes a difference, any suggestions on quality stinger or clamp?
Reply:General rule of thumb for amperage is decimal of the rod size = amps. 1/8 = 125a, 3/32 = 95a, ect. Not an exact science, but a good starting point.
Reply:I found a supply store, heading there tomorrow,thanks
Reply:

Originally Posted by Roert42

General rule of thumb for amperage is decimal of the rod size = amps. 1/8 = 125a, 3/32 = 95a, ect. Not an exact science, but a good starting point.
Reply:Interesting. What are you thoughts on the lower end forney machines, specifically  the Easy Weld 140 MP, or should I just stay away from the 120v machine’s altogether and have a 240 line run. I really enjoy welding so far and would like to eventually learn tig.
Reply:The biggest thing you could do to help yourself is find a teacher. Update your user CP with your location, so we know where you are. Lots of us are pretty friendly. I have had several guys out to check out their equipment and learn a few licks. Having someone else use your tools and tell you it is great, or something is wrong helps immensely.
Reply:

Originally Posted by tryonix

Interesting. What are you thoughts on the lower end forney machines, specifically  the Easy Weld 140 MP, or should I just stay away from the 120v machine’s altogether and have a 240 line run. I really enjoy welding so far and would like to eventually learn tig.
Reply:I do not know. Why will it not give me 140A?I am in NJ, will update my location, thanks
Reply:

Originally Posted by tryonix

I do not know. Why will it not give me 140A?I am in NJ, will update my location, thanks
Reply:Makes sense, yeh I am on a 20A breaker. I am gonna get an electrician in here and see if I can get a 220 line installed.Last edited by tryonix; 07-20-2021 at 08:15 PM.I picked up some 7014 and 7018. The 7014 welds real easy, like that one. The 7018 sticks a lot, don’t have much time on it. Will give it another go this weekend.
Reply:I like 3/32" 7016 myself. It is truly an any-position rod. Sincerely, William McCormickIf I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.
Reply:I will try it. Thanks
Reply:Your best bet is just some plain ol' 3/32 7018.  Easy to run, good puddle visibility.  It's a drag rod........just pull it along.I had a terrible experience when I fixed my filler neck on my 1 ton.  My eyesight has gotten so bad in my left eye, that I can barely see anything clearly out of that eye........and I've lost depth perception due to it.I was pretty depressed about it,, but decided that that I should just shut up about it, and "re-learn" the process.  I'm not quite ready to throw in the towel yet.

Micro weave to define the toes

  Micro weave to define the toes

  Straight drag, letting the puddle define the toesI had to do this to get back on the horse, so to speak..........and I'm still not 100%  I have to concentrate more than I ever did, or it starts to go South very fast.  The biggest problem I still have, is bead height........I'm not able to see depth/height so much anymore.  Don't even walk around the yard at dusk anymore, I almost fall on my face because I can't see the difference in the ground contour

  We're going to one of those 1hr optical places in Tulsa when K'kins decides to take a day off.  I refuse to do anything about the cataracts yet........not till I'm almost blind.......don't want any idiot fishing around in my eyes.Anyways............3/32 is the easiest to handle, and takes the least amount of amps if you're having trouble getting power to your welder.

Reply:Another thing that can cause problems is having an arc fault circuit breaker. Many people don't realize they have them.  When a wire breaks or shorts, it sometimes throws a little spark. That's an "arc fault" and trips the breaker.  Sometimes it interprets the arc of a weld as an arc fault and trips, thus you have people complaining about how their little welders are "always tripping the circuit breaker."  Switch it for a regular breaker and the problem will disappear.As for the rest of your issues, "become one with the puddle, grasshopper."-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:

Originally Posted by tryonix

Makes sense, yeh I am on a 20A breaker. I am gonna get an electrician in here and see if I can get a 220 line installed.
Reply:7014 is very user friendly and is beyond suitable for most hobby use. 7018 carries a learning curve and may not work well on a 120 volt 125 amp machine, 3/32 may be ok, 7024 might be a good choice as long as your welds are "in position" (flat or horizontal).IMPEACH BIDEN!NRA LIFE MEMBERUNITWELD 175 AMP 3 IN1 DCMIDSTATES 300 AMP AC MACHINEGOD HELP AMERICA!“Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.We didn’t pass it to our children in the bloodstream".RONALD REAGAN
Reply:A photo would help.Welding was not hobby for it was a living.I can weld very well with stick or mig even tig and torch.  I lean from books and followed the photos in book. At time I was to young to go to school so learn on my own. Dave

Originally Posted by tryonix

Hello all,I recently got into welding. It is a hobby for me. I want to make some stuff, smoker, pizza oven, etc. I wanted to take a welding class, but the only welding schools near me are really intensive 8 hour per day for 36 weeks courses, which don't work for me. No one offers a weekend crash course, or even a night course. So I have been teaching myself, reading everything I can and watching YouTube.I bought a DC stick welder and got some practice coupons. I can lay a pretty straight bead. I am still trying to get the hang of proper voltage. I think most times I am running too hot. But that is a different issue. I have been trying to get the hang of fillet welds. I set up my pieces, I tack them together, and run a 3/32 6013 at a 45 degree angle into the corner, just like they do in the YouTube videos. I have tried running straight beads and little circles and from the slag it looks like I am fusing both sides into the fillet, but when I break off the slag, I either got weld on the top plate or the bottom plate and no real fusion between the 2. Does anyone have any pointers? What am I doing wrong?Thanks
Reply:

Originally Posted by tryonix

Makes sense, yeh I am on a 20A breaker. I am gonna get an electrician in here and see if I can get a 220 line installed.
Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Your best bet is just some plain ol' 3/32 7018.  Easy to run, good puddle visibility.  It's a drag rod........just pull it along.I had a terrible experience when I fixed my filler neck on my 1 ton.  My eyesight has gotten so bad in my left eye, that I can barely see anything clearly out of that eye........and I've lost depth perception due to it.I was pretty depressed about it,, but decided that that I should just shut up about it, and "re-learn" the process.  I'm not quite ready to throw in the towel yet.

Micro weave to define the toes

  Micro weave to define the toes

  Straight drag, letting the puddle define the toesI had to do this to get back on the horse, so to speak..........and I'm still not 100%  I have to concentrate more than I ever did, or it starts to go South very fast.  The biggest problem I still have, is bead height........I'm not able to see depth/height so much anymore.  Don't even walk around the yard at dusk anymore, I almost fall on my face because I can't see the difference in the ground contour

  We're going to one of those 1hr optical places in Tulsa when K'kins decides to take a day off.  I refuse to do anything about the cataracts yet........not till I'm almost blind.......don't want any idiot fishing around in my eyes.Anyways............3/32 is the easiest to handle, and takes the least amount of amps if you're having trouble getting power to your welder.
Reply:

Originally Posted by CAVEMANN

Sammm, get those cataracts fixed, it's a piece of cake now-a-days. My dad had his done in the early 60's and it was a huge deal then. My wife has had cataracts in both eyes & had really good results, I had lasik about 20 years ago and that worked great, now I've got cataracts starting, when the time comes I'll have em fixed, don't sweat it brother. There are breakthroughs every year & it's getting better & easier every year, when you get it done you'll kick yourself in the hind end for not doing it sooner. After having it done you probably won't need glasses for anything but reading.
Reply:

Originally Posted by CAVEMANN

Sammm, get those cataracts fixed, it's a piece of cake now-a-days. My dad had his done in the early 60's and it was a huge deal then. My wife has had cataracts in both eyes & had really good results, I had lasik about 20 years ago and that worked great, now I've got cataracts starting, when the time comes I'll have em fixed, don't sweat it brother. There are breakthroughs every year & it's getting better & easier every year, when you get it done you'll kick yourself in the hind end for not doing it sooner. After having it done you probably won't need glasses for anything but reading.
Reply:

Originally Posted by tryonix

Hello all,I recently got into welding. It is a hobby for me. I want to make some stuff, smoker, pizza oven, etc. I wanted to take a welding class, but the only welding schools near me are really intensive 8 hour per day for 36 weeks courses, which don't work for me. No one offers a weekend crash course, or even a night course. So I have been teaching myself, reading everything I can and watching YouTube.Thanks
Reply:

Originally Posted by albrightree

This one is closer to you :    Passaic County technical institute  - https://www.ssreg.com/passaic/classe...asp?catID=2297This one is near me, about an hour west of you  :  Warren county technical School  -   http://wctech.org/wcts/Adult%20Educa...pdf?1627918380They aren't cheap, but nobody is offering as much of the adult courses for welding this year, and last . Possibly pandemic or demograsphic related. Morris county, and sussex county don't seem to be offering any this season, only degree programs.Best of luck.
Reply:I got these crappy things today

I SEE WORSE THAN I DID BEFORE

"You gotta get used to them"  Bull****, they don't work.And while we were in getting the stinkin' things, some ******* knocked the right side mirror off the friggin' truck

  Now I gotta pull the mirror off the parts truck to fix it.  And it's a chrome mirror, instead of the flat black mirror I got on the truck now

I'm going back,, and raise hell.  This is crap.

Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

I got these crappy things today

I SEE WORSE THAN I DID BEFORE

"You gotta get used to them"  Bull****, they don't work.And while we were in getting the stinkin' things, some ******* knocked the right side mirror off the friggin' truck

  Now I gotta pull the mirror off the parts truck to fix it.  And it's a chrome mirror, instead of the flat black mirror I got on the truck now

I'm going back,, and raise hell.  This is crap.
Reply:I got mine done when it was barely borderline necessary.  Don't wait. It's only gonna get worse. Cataracts are the number cause of blindness in the world.  This happens mainly in third world countries without access to decent  medical care Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:Cataracts ?? My daddy had a Coupe Deville Cataracts, awesome car back then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:

Originally Posted by Lis2323

I got mine done when it was barely borderline necessary.  Don't wait. It's only gonna get worse. Cataracts are the number cause of blindness in the world.  This happens mainly in third world countries without access to decent  medical care Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:

Originally Posted by Lis2323

I got mine done when it was barely borderline necessary.  Don't wait. It's only gonna get worse. Cataracts are the number cause of blindness in the world.  This happens mainly in third world countries without access to decent  medical care Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:

code: WELDING I / $600.0024 Session(s)Tues, Thurs  6:30 pm to 9:30 pm ,  October 5 - December 23Class Details: Click HereInstructor(s): Mauriceo ClaseLocation: Passaic County Technical Institute B107Availability: 5 open seatsJust my opinion, but I think you would be better of investing your time and money in this course than buying another cheap welder. You will get more information about machines and processes in real world applications. You will also get to meet people with a common interest, some may have more experience than others. I have been sent to basic courses in welding, and cutting, and have always come away with some new information about something. Most important of all you will get immediate feedback on your welding from one reliable source. Try as we may here, its harder to learn over a forum vs. learning in a class. I would feel confident in saying you will come out of the course with the skills needed to do most of the projects you mentioned earlier. Or you could watch a lot of you tube videos, and practice , practice, and practice. Everybody learns differently, but most learn better with help.Have you found a welding supplier yet? I have bought used equipment from AGL in Clifton , NJ. They are a family owned gas and welding supply company. I haven't been down that way in a while, but they were pretty good to my friend who had little welding knowledge and experience. They also rent equipment (saw a Miller 212 in the picture among others), and sell used rental equipment.While you still have a 120v stick welder, I would also recommend using the Hobart 6011, and 6013 as they both run on lower amps than the comparable Lincoln welding rod, and the Hobart 6013 has a lot less slag to deal with. They might make learning a little easier for you. Best of LuckPS - I like the use of the burst graphic, somebody from the Graphics Design dept. just have been assigned to help.
Last edited by albrightree; 4 Weeks Ago at 10:30 AM.Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:Thanks, that course looks pretty good. Clifton is right next to me, I will definitely check out AGL.
Reply:I been buying forney rods off Amazon. They had decent reviews, you ever try them?
Reply:

Originally Posted by tryonix

Thanks, that course looks pretty good. Clifton is right next to me, I will definitely check out AGL.
Reply:I highly recommend taking at least a basic welding class at a CC. This will, or should, give you the basics to the craft and cover all the safety aspects to be aware of. They will cover oxy/acetylene cutting torches start up and shut down procedures hopefully. My advice to anyone serious about stick welding, after you get a 50Amp 220V circuit in your shop. Keep your eyes on all the for sale adds, trader, Craigslist, FB Marketplace, etc for a real AC/DC transformer welder. Many can be found in good shape at a great price with many more years a service in them. My personal preferences are the Lincoln Idealarc250 or a Miller Dialarc 250. Both are great machines and while very heavy (350lbs) they will serve you for many years. There are many others out there but these are my favorites Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSteveMiller Dialarc 250 (1990)Miller Maxstar 140 STR (2003)Lincoln SA200 Redface Pipeliner (1966)Lincoln MP210 (2015)Victor and MECO torches
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