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Howdy! Ok, time for some technique help folks! welding with 7014 hobart 5/32's rod now, at 200 amps DC on 1/2" plate (build up from 1/4" with 3/32's rod) I am having 2 issues with technique related. When I am almost done with my electrode, and finishing up the puddle, I have been trying to cicle around a few times like with mig.... the problem is I am getting a bubble in the middle. Not mig style porosity, but a single bubble about 1/16" across. 2nd thing not related I believe, is that my beer went stale ok just kidding. Really, my welds have warts! This is under the flux. before I chip the flux off, which is easy bye the way with this bigger rod... everything looks great. After I chip the flux off with the wire wheel, it ends up with about 5) 1/16ths " around warts / inch. This is not from spatter on near bye welds. Penetration looks great and everywhere else the weld profile looks awesome! oh, and one other thing, sometimes I am getting a divit in the center-line of the weld lengthwise. Thanks for the critique folks! Brian Lee Sparkeee24
Reply:Sparkeee, it's been a long time since I've used that rod but that sounds a little hot to me. As you get to the end of the rod, are you losing flux coverage? Don't burn 'em too short! Also,don't really make circles at the end of the pass, just kinda pause and move the rod tip in just a little wiggle.You can angle the rod to force the puddle back if needed. You're on 1/2" plate, are you going off the edge or stopping short?.............. .Anyone else?.........Good luck!
Reply:A great way to create a pinhole in the center of the end crater is to draw your rod vertically out of the weld pool when finishing off.Try hesitating to fill your crater then tracking off by lifting and moving your rod back over the bead.
Reply:I agree, sounds a little hot to me. I would back off to 165 amps and work up. are you running downhill any? I have seen that line show up alot when running down hand. also that hole is where flux flows in as you circle. as tek said you should not have to make a circle, just ease the rod back just a bit. ~JacksonI'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:Rule of thumb I was taught a long time ago is 1 amp for every .001" diameter of the rod. I usually wound up running hotter but this is a good starting point.1/8" = .125 = 125 amps5/32" = .156 = 156 amps200 seems a bit hot for 5/32" and could account for what you are seeing.7014 flux will lift itself up when the heat is right. It shouldnt take too much effort to knock the flux off.Are you keeping your rods in a hot box to keep the flux dry?
Reply:5/32" 7014 rods - amp range = 150 to 210 amps. You are well within operating range. I used 3/16" rods a few years ago to put in some deck plate in an off road dump truck, but never had any bubbles. So if I read your original post correctly, this is actually 1/4" plate with a lot of layers on it. Is everything clean or are you occasionally running over bits of old scale or flux? Because that may create your pin hole pockets.What is your application? If this being installed or is this a practice plate? Stringer bead or are you weaving?Here in the Great White NorthMosquitoes can't fly at 40 below
Reply:Howdy! practice pieces only at this point. I'm still using my lil mig for things that I nead to be confidently welded, so long as they are within its capibilities. Yes, there is probablility that SOME small amount of slag is stuck under the next run on my practice pieces. In more runs, I have not been having the same issues. I stopped trying to circle at the end, as suggested, and the last big hole or two are gone on each pass now. My wire wheels are worn out. they are splintering and breaking off real short. So I nead to get some more wire wheels. maybee something better that will last longer? I was not real impressed with the wire wheels I have been running. They didn't do a good job at getting the slag out of the cracks either. Thanks for all the help folks!! Brian Lee Sparkeee24 |
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