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i see machines for sale that use 230V input. i don't have that in my garage, only 110V. is there a device that can convert 110 to 230 so that i can use one of the other machines or do i have to run a separate line/circuit from the breaker box.thankskev
Reply:separate circuit is about the only feasable thing...Lots of folks here with similar problem...Some have suggested pretty creative things but none have panned out yet.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Originally Posted by smithboyseparate circuit is about the only feasable thing...Lots of folks here with similar problem...Some have suggested pretty creative things but none have panned out yet.
Reply:I agree with Smithboy and Sandy, get an electrician. There is a way to get 220v from 110v outlets, BUT if you have to ask don't try to do it. In commercial buildings the 220v trick might give a much higher voltage.(either 277 or 308 if I remember correctly, either way it's bye bye welderat best bye bye weldOr and building at worst)
Reply:Run a line from your neighbors house while he's at work
Reply:I had the exact same issue and I couldn't find the details that I needed anywhere. Electricity can be a scary thing. I looked online and through books at Home Depot on wiring but I just didn't see what I needed. I was at my grandfather's house one day and explained my situation to him. He told me what I needed to know. It seemed almost too easy and I guess I was trying to overthink it. He told me that I just needed to add a breaker and run the wiring to an outlet and hook it up.Here's how I did my garage:I bought a breaker in the picture below. I use the two 50's for the welder(one for each hot wire that goes to the 220 outlet).The two 30's are for my air compressor. I bought the outlet that matched the plug on my welderAnd then I bought enough wiring to run between the box and my outlet. Luckily the box is right on the other side of the wall. First, I cut holes for the outlet and then I dropped the wiring through the box and out the new holes. I hooked one end up to my new outlet...... and then the other end to my new breaker. I also attached the ground in the box.After I had everything hooked up, I put the breaker into the box... ...and tested with a tester to see that I was getting power. It worked! I plugged in the welder and that was it. Of course, I could have done a better finishing job on the outlet but I was ready to be done with all of that and start welding. I'll get back to finishing it when I run out of stuff to weld on!I'm no electrician and I have no idea what I am doing so please take that into consideration before trying any of this. I'm probably lucky to still be alive, but it worked. Electricians, please pick this apart if you need to.
Reply:You have those breakers wired wrong. The only colors going to a breaker should be black or red, and in the case of the 50a 230/208 (both use same plug), it should be black and red, with nothing on white. If you have an electriciean in there, they are comfortable to touch the white (basically a ground) with the power on. If he touches that, he will be hurt. Also, what guage of wire is that? for a 50a plug you need somewhere in the neighbourhood of 8-12, it looks like you have 14 there.Additionally, you are allowed 1.5" of jacket inside the panel, looks like you are closer to 5 or 6, and you need to have a grommet in there.(edit, actually, i think using white as hot in a 30 or 50a situation may be alright...)Last edited by ctardi; 10-27-2005 at 12:58 AM.
Reply:I agree with the above post. You have the wrong color wire landed on the breakers. It also looks like one hot wire is landed on the 50 amp breaker and the other is on the 30 amp breaker. Both of your hot legs should be on the pair of breakers that are interlocked together.
Reply:What JDD has there is functionally correct. There's no violations there that will stop the earth from spinning or electricity from flowing. A few house keeping issues that could be cleaned up in five minutes. White is fine as a conductor, wrap it with red tape and it's good to go. Seperate knockouts for each wire, peel a teeny bit of outer jacket off and slip the couplers on. Bingo, good to go. Those 30 amp breakers have an adapter on them making them an acceptable double.
Reply:Thanks for the feedback on my post. There is some good info in there. I used 10 gauge wire. As far as the jacket...I think the reason I did that was because of the edge on the hole in the box but I went and got a grommet today. Now I can push the extra wire back down and should have minimal jacket exposed.I hadn't given color any real consideration. I picked up some red tape today...good idea Sandy. I'll wrap the white wires with the red tape by the breakers and the by the outlet. The rest is in the jacket, so I think that will be fine. I'll also put a note in the box about this for the future.Thanks again-JD
Reply:Originally Posted by JDDThanks for the feedback on my post. There is some good info in there. I used 10 gauge wire. As far as the jacket...I think the reason I did that was because of the edge on the hole in the box but I went and got a grommet today. Now I can push the extra wire back down and should have minimal jacket exposed.I hadn't given color any real consideration. I picked up some red tape today...good idea Sandy. I'll wrap the white wires with the red tape by the breakers and the by the outlet. The rest is in the jacket, so I think that will be fine. I'll also put a note in the box about this for the future.Thanks again-JD
Reply:Although quite wordy and technical-sounding this is a great site to answer questions about wiring in general: http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homew...ling/index.htm and this also could be helpful:http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...let&print=true |
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