what should I chrage per. ft. building fence

admin

what should I chrage per. ft. building fence pipe, barbed wire, I guess what ever it take to do a fence job. If you have any info please let me know I would appreciate in highly. Thank You! I'm trying to start a small side buss. I have some exsperince in welding I've a couple of small metal buildings and fences for friends but I just don't really know how to bid a job.
Reply:Well, first off, what would it cost you to buy the materials new? Yeah, maybe you can scrounge em, or get em used, but your price should be based on a repeatable, new price. If you can save money on used, then you should be paid more for your resourcefulness.I do high end ornamental work, not ordinary fences, and I know I gotta at least get 5 times materials. But if your stuff is quick and dirty, then maybe a smaller multiplier would work. You need to add in some money for consumables- grinding wheels, filler rod, shielding gas or gas for the gas drive welder, wire brushes- stuff gets used up.You need to pay yourself an hourly wage AND make a small profit- they are two different things.What the market will bear varies a lot from place to place. Call a few commercial fence places in nearby towns, and get a price from them for 100 feet.Then, make a few mistakes- you never price em too high- only too low. So lose a little money on a job or two, and you will have a good idea what it should really cost.
Reply:Thanks, that is great infoshould I go with a costumer purchasing material and percentage for me up front and the remainder when completed for the job or costumer purchasing material and hourly/weekly pay.
Reply:Depends if you are just doing one, or are going into business. Also depends on where you live. Some areas, everybody works cash under the table, other places they want to pay you with a check.If you do much of this, and you are getting paid by them by the hour or week, you are legally their employee- and that means legally they will be required to withhold taxes, and pay workmans comp and unemployment.Most people dont want to do that- they want you to be a business, with a business licence, and just pay you a lump sum for the whole thing. You usually do better when you bid a fixed cost, and pad it a bit, instead of time and materials. But starting out, time and materials might not be such a bad idea.I would ask for a deposit up front, and you buy the materials. I get 50% up front, the rest on completion, but I have been in business a long time and have a local rep. If you do much of this, and you end up claiming the income on your taxes, then you can deduct the materials, and other business expenses.
Reply:Thats cools maybe I'll figure all this out. I've been wanting to start this for over a year now that I have changed jobs and have a little more side time to do more welding I might be able to make some extra cash.
Reply:Welcome to the forum.Here's another way to look at it:If you charge a percentage on top of materials, the amount you make is determined by the materials involved -- not by the intricacy or artistry of the work. You would get paid more for a long, simple fence then for a short but amazingly difficult fence.Another way to go is to charge by the hour. The better your reputation gets over time, the more you can charge. But it will always be based on the actual skill that you put into it. To determine your hourly rate, the starting point is to determine how much you want/need to make. If it's a part-time gig, by how much do you want to supplement your income?How many hours (reasonably) do you expect to have paid work. Take the income you hope to have, divide by the number of hours, and that will give you a good hourly rate. Then compare that rate to what other people like you charge in your area. You'll be amazed at how close you generally are.If you bill by the hour and charge cost for the materials (or cost plus a small percentage), you will never find yourself involved in a money-losing job.Bob RosenbaumFormer PublisherPenton's WELDING Magazine
Reply:TompitAs stated above do the paperwork figure out expenses.  Use new stuff, because you could end up spending much time making old stuff work.  I base everything on 5 or greater times the cost of material.  When I started I did not know how much to I could do in an hour.  Thus, I came up with 5Xmaterial.  I got 5 because; 1xmaterial, 1xlabor, 1xprofit, 1xfinishing, 1xinstallation. At least I never lost money, however you might have to play with the value to adjust for ornate stuff.  Look at this number then compare to local contractors.     If I look at a job hourly, then I never let the client know how I calculated it. Just give them a flat rate.  I have never had a problem coming upon the short end, though I have been doing it almost 7 years.  Allowing the client to know how you calculated your fee give them opportunity to question how much time you actually put in working.  I only bid hourly for labor only jobs(repairs). Down payment are good.  When I started out I always got a down payment of 1/3.  It would be wise to get a down payment, especially if you are only doing it part time.  I have always felt, when I purchase metal for a job without a down payment, then I am extending a loan.  Also, some contractors are willing to hold onto your money well after the work is completed for what ever reason.  Sometimes they have a pay cycle other times...  If someone is reluctant to give you a down payment then negotiate for them to purchase the material. Try the cash first.  However, I have many repeat customers who I do not charge down payments.Since you're doing it part time, try to do lots small jobs rather than one large score, so you can get paid and move on.  Spending 3 months on a 3 week job is frustrating.  I did this on my second job though I  was full time.   Get a contract so they know; what you are going to do, how you expect to be paid and how much money has exhanged hands. Finally, do what you say you are going to do.  Represent yourself and your trade well.Good luck with your venture.