Making a table top out of aluminum

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I'm going to be building a table in my garage for welding. I a 3' x 4' sheet of 1/4" aluminum in my garage. Would i be able to use that as a table top? It's really heavy and thick. Not sure as into wat u guys all use for ur welding tables. I would imagin steel?Thanks,-Joe
Reply:i dont think its thick enough...i have a 1" thick "jig" plate coming...1/4 will not stand up to the abuse/heat for too long......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsteri dont think its thick enough...i have a 1" thick "jig" plate coming...1/4 will not stand up to the abuse/heat for too long......zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by Joe5688Thanks, 1" thick seems pretty excessive though. I'm not planning on doing any major welding just simple stuff.
Reply:lol well with the welders i wanna get it cant be to major.
Reply:5 to 1 says the plate will warp, but you can minimize the potential if you only attach the top to the frame at the middle of each long edge.   That will allow the top to expand when heated.   I'd recommend using a slightly larger hole than is necessary for the fastener so the top can grow if heated in the middle.    Even better is to design your table frame so you can attach the top with one fastener in the center.   Keep in mind, thermal expansion of aluminum is about 3x that of steel.   If you can design your table frame with decent air circulation to the underside of the 1/4" sheet, it will help.There are no small projects
Reply:Originally Posted by imagineer5 to 1 says the plate will warp, but you can minimize the potential if you only attach the top to the frame at the middle of each long edge.   That will allow the top to expand when heated.   I'd recommend using a slightly larger hole than is necessary for the fastener so the top can grow if heated in the middle.    Even better is to design your table frame so you can attach the top with one fastener in the center.   Keep in mind, thermal expansion of aluminum is about 3x that of steel.   If you can design your table frame with decent air circulation to the underside of the 1/4" sheet, it will help.
Reply:Originally Posted by Joe5688so basically it would be better to have a steal table top? lol
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloNo...If you "STEAL"  a table top, someone may kick your arse!! I have an aluminum top, it works well. I don't use it for cutting torch work, but it hasn't warped from heat, so all is good. Steel would be good, too. But if you do your pounding and stuff on concrete, or a different bench, you should be fine. If you intend to pound steel on the aluminum top, put plenty of reinforcement under it to keep from bending it.
Reply:Originally Posted by Joe5688Wats a good way to cut 1/4" aluminum.
Reply:The aluminum will act as a heat sink and help cool off whatever you are welding. Not sure if that is good or bad though. Some things need to cool slowly.
Reply:Originally Posted by MAC702Plasma.
Reply:Originally Posted by Joe5688if u dont have access to one? lol
Reply:I've use my DeWalt radial arm saw to cut aluminum sheet and bar using a carbide blade specifically designed to cut non-ferrous metals, clamping everything very firmly, and taking all the slop out of the arm rollers.  The local saw blade service shop sold me the blade, saying it had a tooth profile specifically designed for cutting aluminum.  I don't think it would be safe to try with any random carbide-tipped wood-cutting blade.  The saw shop also advised using a wax lubricating stick on the blade frequently.  Just cut slightly into the end of the stick (VERY CAREFULLY). Never had the nerve, or even the thought of trying to cut aluminum plate with a skill saw and would have thought it was a crazy idea until I noticed a Skill-type German import saw specifically designed for the purpose at the local welding supply last week.  Looked interesting.  They sold the blades separately.  It looked like the primary difference from your average carpenter's Skill-Saw was the chip catching feature.  I'm sure the chips will be all over the neighborhood without some capturing device - at least a shop-vac and a plastic cup rigged to catch chips.  Remember the chips are not bio-degradable and you will be seeing the ones you don't capture for years.Reduce noise by clamping plywood to as much of the portions of the sheet out of the way of the cut as possible, using a few C-clamps or spring clamps.  The (microscopic) pumping action of the air in the interface between the plywood and the plate will dissipate some of the resonant or ringing energy of the plate.  It will still be very noisy, but the plywood-damped plate will not amplify the noise as much as a bare plate.Let us know how it works out.awright
Reply:Originally Posted by awrightI've use my DeWalt radial arm saw to cut aluminum sheet and bar using a carbide blade specifically designed to cut non-ferrous metals, clamping everything very firmly, and taking all the slop out of the arm rollers.  The local saw blade service shop sold me the blade, saying it had a tooth profile specifically designed for cutting aluminum.  I don't think it would be safe to try with any random carbide-tipped wood-cutting blade.  The saw shop also advised using a wax lubricating stick on the blade frequently.  Just cut slightly into the end of the stick (VERY CAREFULLY). Never had the nerve, or even the thought of trying to cut aluminum plate with a skill saw and would have thought it was a crazy idea until I noticed a Skill-type German import saw specifically designed for the purpose at the local welding supply last week.  Looked interesting.  They sold the blades separately.  It looked like the primary difference from your average carpenter's Skill-Saw was the chip catching feature.  I'm sure the chips will be all over the neighborhood without some capturing device - at least a shop-vac and a plastic cup rigged to catch chips.  Remember the chips are not bio-degradable and you will be seeing the ones you don't capture for years.Reduce noise by clamping plywood to as much of the portions of the sheet out of the way of the cut as possible, using a few C-clamps or spring clamps.  The (microscopic) pumping action of the air in the interface between the plywood and the plate will dissipate some of the resonant or ringing energy of the plate.  It will still be very noisy, but the plywood-damped plate will not amplify the noise as much as a bare plate.Let us know how it works out.awright
Reply:Unless you've had much experience with cutting ally I would lean away from skill saws. A radial arm saw is much more controllable but 1/4 inch is a lot of aluminium to cut and if your going across a 3-4 foot sheet you wont get the length of cut.Plus you may need to buy blades.An aluminium blade has a negative rake, less kerf , every third tooth is square cut and the 2nd and 3rd are left and right eased.You can cut it with an angle grinder. I would recommend a 4 or 5 inch as they are easier to handle. Plenty of lube, WD40 or similar and (surprisingly) I find Masonry blades more effective. The cut will be rough and you will need to clean it up with a flap disc. But these are tools you will most likely have without investing too much.There are (and we do use them occasionally) Cardbide tipped blades for small grinders but again if you are not experienced in this medium ....no.It will make a hell of a noise muffs are required.
Reply:I have cut lots of aluminum with a skill saw and regular carbide blade.  A router works great too.  Just make darn sure you have it clamped down good and use a straight edge.  Most important of all, use plenty of oil or it will gaul up.  The heat treated aluminum seems to cut the best.  I have cut 1 inch thick  with this method.
Reply:The oil really makes a difference when cutting or grinding aluminum. It also extends the life of your grinding discs even the flappers. It sure does like to stick up the disc with out it
Reply:the absolute best thing for cutting/sanding aluminum is canning wax..looks like a semi clear bar of soap..clean up is a breeze and it don't leave a oily mess to deal with later...i use it exclusivly when welding is in the mixtry it you'll like it ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:where do you get canning wax?
Reply:Originally Posted by riley mcmillanwhere do you get canning wax?
Reply:thanks zap never heard of that before. the wax I have used leaves a residue that not only makes a pain when welding but painting. you really have to spend time cleaning. more then with the oil./ I will have to try that canning wax
Reply:one wipe with a little acetone and your good to go..and yes you can weld over it with no effects (incase your weld sucks)  ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:The top of my welding table is 1/4" aluminum since I was able to get it for free.  I used a band saw to cut the top, then sanded it with 100 grit paper to make a nice finish on the sides.  It's not as durable as steel, and I have to be careful about getting the arc onto the table since it pits.  I would have preferred steel, but for the occasional use mine gets, it was hard to beat the price.
Reply:have to be careful about getting the arc onto the table since it pits.to stop that from happening put the ground clamp on the work whenever possible.... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.zap have you ever used that (Do All) wax. I ve been trying it out it seems to work really well.
Reply:Originally Posted by aluminumman75zap have you ever used that (Do All) wax. I ve been trying it out it seems to work really well.
Reply:I've been trying at work only for taking welds down to flush.  I still use a clean flapper disc for grinding prior to welding
Reply:When you say canning wax are you referring to paraffin, the milky wax you buy in 1 pound boxes in the market under the name, Parowax or household wax?  It is also petroleum based.  It used to be (and may still be) sold under the oil refiners' labels, like Esso.  Very handy for many tasks.awright
Reply:yup the 1 lb box i get say gulf on them..may be petrolium based but it sure does a good job.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Just thought Id describe my welding table at work.Some Dextron racking 1.0m high and 1.8 long 1.2m wideA sheet of 20mm ply on thatA 1.8x 1.2 x4.5 fibro on that for insulationA 3mm x1.8 x1.2 ally screwed to that.I wouldn't want to do any heavy structural steel work on it but I made it quickly one afternoon out of things lying around the factory and I'm still using it 2 years later. No  buckling but sagging in the middle a bit.Easily fixed with some intermediate supports but that job is on "the list" My point is for the hobbyist the main thing is to get out there and do the welding . Don't put it off till you have a great you beaut table .This method will give you a lot of table area (cant have enough of that!) for very little capital investment and you can always reuse the materials at a later stage when you have a better table made. But don't be surprised if your using it years later!As always safety firstBrett