Whats wrong with this picture?

admin

Anything wrong with these welds? If so please be very descriptive with your answers.Thanks in advance.NextOne more
Reply:Seems like they´re done with the tack after tack method...That supossedly would not bring a weld that´s as strong as needed. Of course this is in the welds that have a point in the center of the "ripples". ZTfab here has a welding method that looks almost the same...but he doesn´t tack weld...that´s just his signature...Maybe he could give you deeper information cause he´s the master My Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:what elvergon said looks like a bunch of tacks, Z's welds look similar but don't have the little divot in the middle witch could weaken them,but since i don't yet know all there is to know about welding i could be wrongChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:The ripples are waaaaay too far apart.  Some of the corners also look rather cold.
Reply:I am not sure how you are getting such heavy ripples.... TIG ???  Make sure you wrap around the ends of your gussets.  At several locations the weld ends at a sharp point at the end of the gusset instead of filling in the end to a radius.  These are possible crack sites in the future.
Reply:Those welds are definitely pulsed MIG, not TIG.While I won't say that they are "bad" or going to fail, personally I will say that I HATE pulse welded MIG, especially when it's not done properly, i.e., the big a$$ dimple in the center that is an almost gauranteed starting point for cracks. I don't know why people can't overlap their beads (or tacks in pulse welding).There has been a ton of debate over pulse welding on the off-road forums that I'm on. Some for and some against. The majority of sand rail and buggy manufacturers use pulsed MIG for their chassis' (like the pics hoserbug posted) to try and keep them aesthetically pleasing. Is this good or bad??  I can't say for sure as I haven't done any destructive testing to determine if the have comparable results but I do know that these chassis' take a lot of abuse in the off-road and when it comes to my work, pulse welded MIG is for sheet metal, not for a chassis or suspension piece.Here's a pic of a continuous MIG weld that I did on some 3/16" plate.Here's another that I did on an engine cage for a customer. 3/16" plate and .120" wall tube....and seriously, Thanks for the compliments guys.  I'm just a guy who loves to weld.- PaulLast edited by ZTFab; 12-19-2006 at 10:18 AM.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:All of the pulsed MIG welds I have seen are very smooth with 0 spatter.  The welds in the above picture just have a bit of a weave or are stopped and started.Here is a pulsed MIG weld off of the Miller website:Last edited by 76GMC1500; 12-19-2006 at 02:20 PM.
Reply:3'rd picture down..every "bead" has a hole in the middle..and thats alot of holes... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Consistent looking weld, very uniform.As mentioned above, looks like overlapping spot welds, each spot has kind of a shrinkage/solidification dimple with a little slag spot in it.Was this done with a low frequency pulse setting and constant travel speed, or was it some kind of weld, stop, move, weld, kind of motion?I agree with those above, the spacing is probably too far apart and will reduce strength compared to "constant progression" weld.  If this were cut or bent and broken along the weld joint, I think you would see the undulating penentration pattern, deep at the spot center, shalow between centers.Chances are these joints have more than enough weld to compensate for the "lower strength" bead.Probably would want to overlap at least 50% minimum by either increasing the pulse frequency or slowing down travel.The Miller "pulsed" mig weld shown by 76GMC1500, is essentially a pulsed spray mode done with high frequency pulsing, like 300 pps, versus a low frequency pulse like 3 pps that would produce the stack of dimes look.
Reply:Ok, just needed to get the terminology straight.
Reply:Gee, and there was me wishing I could get a weld looking that good.
Reply:Originally Posted by scott brunsdonGee, and there was me wishing I could get a weld looking that good.
Reply:Originally Posted by 76GMC1500All of the pulsed MIG welds I have seen are very smooth with 0 spatter.  The welds in the above picture just have a bit of a weave or are stopped and started.Here is a pulsed MIG weld off of the Miller website:
Reply:hoser,so this was a test?I think there would be certain applications where your "spot-repeat" technique would be suitable, like on very thin materials with a variable gap,  which would be difficult to continuously weld without burning through.
Reply:Originally Posted by pulserhoser,so this was a test?I think there would be certain applications where your "spot-repeat" technique would be suitable, like on very thin materials with a variable gap,  which would be difficult to continuously weld without burning through.
Reply:Originally Posted by 76GMC1500All of the pulsed MIG welds I have seen are very smooth with 0 spatter.  The welds in the above picture just have a bit of a weave or are stopped and started.Here is a pulsed MIG weld off of the Miller website:
Reply:I guess it's a pulser, Miller referes to it as a pulsed MIG.  I've actually run one of these machines.  It utilizes spray transfer instead of short circuit.  Varying the pulse rate only changes how fast you travel with the gun, the weld will always be smooth.
Reply:I've never used pulsed before.  I make my welds look like ZT's with a regular mig, does pulsed give that appearence in a straight line weld?DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:No, pulsed makes for a smooth bead.