ideas?

admin

I am going to be welding some holes up in my frame here a practice shot.  This is a 7/16 hole with 7/16 plug in it with aluminum backer plate to hold the plug in.  In this shot I used .035 wire with the frame being 3/16" steel with 75/25 shielding gas..but looks to much on the wire (slow down the wire speed with .035) or Im thinking .030 wire?  Any other suggestions, also didnt look like good penetration on the back...
Reply:those are easy enough to fill in without plugs...you just about did it there...just go around the outside untill it dissapears..then do the other side grind and finish..who knew?...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:There is actually a 7/16 plug in the hole that I went around...
Reply:dont matter..not to me anyway..just go round and round smaller and smaller.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:strength wise does it matter welded shut vrs using plug etc... I will be redrilling near some for new leaf hanger mounting points.
Reply:oooooooo drill the holes first..the haz might harden up on you a little bit and drilling may be difficult after..depends on what the frame material is from the factory......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Your not going to get deep penetraion doing what your doing with the plugs. Good fusion, yes, but deep penetration, no. I would be wondering about flex in the frame down the road. Maybe this one is rigid as a rock, I dunno. If it isn't any substantial twisting or flexing might very well manifest itself at those plugs. I'm not saying the frame will be weaker but I can picture the weld cracking around the perimeter of the plugs. The plug would be held in by the little jagged edges. You've met the basic description of plugging the hole and that's about it. A 7/16ths hole in 3/16ths material is too small to mess with any sort of plug unless it was like a 3/16ths dia plug.
Reply:Now if I just fill the hole without the plug, do you think I could have the same stress problem at the holes?  What is the best way to do this?  I have some holes that are drilled that need filled and redrilled in a different position.
Reply:if they are factory holes i doubt you will notice, or are doing anything that will make the frame more rigid.  are you boxing in the frame at all?
Reply:Originally Posted by zaktNow if I just fill the hole without the plug, do you think I could have the same stress problem at the holes?  What is the best way to do this?  I have some holes that are drilled that need filled and redrilled in a different position.
Reply:Will be filling in the front coil spring bucket holes and boxing the front down to the transmission crossmember.  The rear, filling the old leaf hanger mount holes and drilling new ones but not boxing.I will try the fill method and see how it goes.  That makes sense with the air gap in the center.  Was thinking the welder might be able to do the filling of the plug though in one pass all the way through.  It sounds, looks like this isnt possible then.
Reply:Looks like the hardest part is grinding it level with the original frame area and smoothing it out so it is un-noticeable...
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyMost frame material isn't the softest there is by any means.
Reply:Originally Posted by zaktLooks like the hardest part is grinding it level with the original frame area and smoothing it out so it is un-noticeable...
Reply:Originally Posted by ZRx61Some F-series Fords use Chrome Vanadium for frame rails...
Reply:Originally Posted by ZRx61Some F-series Fords use Chrome Vanadium for frame rails...
Reply:This hole should have been plugged with a 3/8th or smaller slug.  Tack the slug in with a gap all around.  Ideally a 3/8 slug 1/8th thick should be about right.  It is a cosmetic repair and does nothing for the frame except fill up a hole. Such a weld on a frame likely creates just about as much of a stress riser as the hole.
Reply:This is a 67' F350 frame, no special metal (I HOPE  )Now why does it matter with a slug or not then?  Some as above say just fill without the slug?