Total newbie tig question!

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I have just ordered a Lincoln PT225 and was going to pick up some tunsten when it comes in.  What would be a good "starter" selction of tungsten?I am looking to weld Plain carbon steel up to 1/4 in and also some aluminum. I cant get a definate answer from searching there web site and i am getting a little confused from all of the searching i have done online. Sorry for the newbie question i just want to get what i need..Thanks Crank
Reply:3/32 2% thoriated will do everything you want plus.
Reply:Thanks Riley!!  That is what i was thinking but i wanted to make sure it was right for aluminun also...Thanks Again!!This place rocks!!!!!!!Last edited by Cranker; 05-24-2007 at 01:57 PM.
Reply:To prepare the tungsten (2% thoriated) for aluminum, I set my machine to positive electrode, start an arc and heat until a ball forms on the end, then switch back to ac high frequency and weld away.  I use a piece of copper to arc against to form the ball.  If you want a tiny ball, sharpen the tungsten beforehand.
Reply:Thanks again Riley..So the 2% will work with stainless also correct?
Reply:The Lincoln PT225 is a tranny machine, you need to use pure tungsten for the AC mode.2% Th will be used for mild as well as stainless steels, although I'd recommend ceriated as it is not radioactive.Riley, Why are you balling your thoriated? also do you run an X-former or inverter?
Reply:I know that pure tungsten is recommended for ac but the two percent is much hardier.  It is harder to form a ball on the end of the 2% thoriated on ac.  It does't take much time to use the reverse polarity to make the ball and then switch back to ac.  I have a drooper machine.  It has worked well for me for forty years.  Never have used the other stuff you mentioned.  I have used the pure tungsten from time to time.  If you accidently use the pure on negative electrode it will form the ball too.  It's a pain to switch back and forth.
Reply:Oh yes,  I ball the tungsten for welding aluminum achf.  If I weld aluminum on dc neg. with helium I sharpen the electrode, no ball end.
Reply:Why not use 2%th on a transformer machine?   I have used 2%th on aluminum for my transformer machine for years, and never had any trouble.  Just curious why you wouldn't use it.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:Originally Posted by Hammack_WeldingWhy not use 2%th on a transformer machine?   I have used 2%th on aluminum for my transformer machine for years
Reply:Yes, I was always told to ball for aluminum.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:OK, I never tried to ball 2%, so that is tomorrows mission.  ThanksDavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I was taught AC aluminum, 2% Thoriated balled electrode, transformer power supply, argon gas.  First taper the tungsten then ball it on DCEP (reverse polarity) on a piece of copper.  Probably use 3/32 or 1/8" diameter, since smaller can't handle much current on AC.The difficulty with 2% Th is that the ball tends to form a split or hole that makes the arc erratic.  It is not really a big deal, just switch to DCEP and heal up the ball, then go back to AC welding.Never used pure, but alot of 25 year old literature still recommends pure for AC aluminum with a transformer power supply (what's the logic, don't know), presumably to avoid the 2% split thing, but pure will not handle as much current as 2% Th, or the other electrodes like ceriated.If I were doing AC aluminum, I would probably try ceriated, or stick with thoriated, but forget the pure.The modern inverter power supplies do not require that the tungsten be balled prior to welding, you can weld with a tapered electrode, if the current is high enough it will naturally ball up a bit on it's own.I still use 2% Th for ferrous metal welding, don't do any Al now, but from what I've read/heard, the ceriated would probably be the new universal tungsten of choice, since there is concern from some on the radioactivity of thorium (mainly breathing the grinding dust).It seems that newbies are thinking that they may need several different tungsten alloys for welding various metals, not true!  From what I've seen/read/heard, pure does not handle the heat, so forget it, otherwise just pick thoriate, ceriated, lanthated, tri-mix, or what ever alloy and forget it, the arc will not know the difference.  There are many more important welding varibles to worry about, the tungsten alloy is not a major factor.Hold a tight/constant arc length (no more than 1/16"), travel at a constant speed, maintain a constant current, feed the rod in a consistent manner, and maintain inert shielding, these are the major welding weldling variables of importance.Seach Diamond ground products for good info on tunsten electrodes.
Reply:I bought a precision TIG 225 as my first TIG machine too, only about one month ago. I bought both pure and thoriated 3/32 tungstens, because that is what my LWS told me to do.Now that I have gone through a half dozen tanks of argon and a variety of jobs, I find that I only use the thoriated tungstens for everything. In fact, I only used 1/2 inch off of one of the ten pure tungstens I bought.  I am having no problem welding aluminum, SS, mild steel, aluminum castings, etc all with he same tungsten. I use the 1/8 inch thoriated for the high amperage aluminum stuff, and 3/32 for everything else. I bought a 1/16 inch collet and tungstens too, but haven't had a need to try them out yet.As a rookie welder with only limited stick welding experience I have found the PT225 to be amazingly easy to use. Although I am certainly not an expert, my welds are good enough now so that my customers can say "wow! that looks so good!" I was going through a lot of gas while I was learning and practicing every night, but now that I am actually using it for paying jobs, it has become way more reasonable.-Ryanp.s. Watch yourself with the small air-cooled torch, I fused one together solid while doing an emergency aluminum job that was too big for my set-up. I did get the job done and out the door, but I had to buy a new torch and now I am saving up for a small water cooled torch and cooler. I thought that the duty cycle on the PT225 was so low that I would never have the need for the water cooled, but I have talked myself into it.Last edited by Ryan McEachern; 05-25-2007 at 01:52 AM.
Reply:Another newbie tig question. I was given a pile of tungstens (20-25) but I don't know what they are made of. Is there an easy way to tell or is it that critical except for more exotic alloys. Will be doing mostly steel, stainless and aluminum. Guessing that they are made for SS.  Came from a pipefitter who did a lot of SS pipework.
Reply:Last I checked..Tungestions were made from tungestion... (And I dont "ball" them to start)...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Wow thanks for all of the info everybody! So do i need to ball the end or not?
Reply:Originally Posted by CrankerWow thanks for all of the info everybody! So do i need to ball the end or not?
Reply:I don't ball mine either. I don't understand why anyone does.Miller EconotigCutmaster 38Yes ma'am, that IS a screwdriver in my pocket!
Reply:A smooth ball makes a more stable arc.
Reply:Not in my opinion. To me it seems to make a wide fuzzy arc that likes to jump around alot. I'm with Zap.Miller EconotigCutmaster 38Yes ma'am, that IS a screwdriver in my pocket!
Reply:Thank you very much everyone. i love this place....
Reply:Fabricators and welders are a weird and twisted bunch.  After many years working in job shops, the most common remarks from fellow workers was:"Why did you do it that way?"or, "I don't think I would have done it that way." Or, "Were there any other children in your family that lived."
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterLast I checked..Tungestions were made from tungestion... (And I dont "ball" them to start)...zap!
Reply:Well now, I didn't say you couldn't use a doped tungsten, but pure is cheaper and thoriated is not recommended for AC work (it's hard to ball), if you want to use a doped electrode for AC, use a ceriated or better yet a lanthanated. both have the superior heat resistance of thoriated, but not the difficulty balling up or the health issues. And speaking of balling, why are you guys pre-balling? With a pure it'll ball up nicely on it's own, and using a truncated cone on the cerium or lanthanum doped they will ball up just fine.Seems a waste of effort pre-balling on copper an electrode, especially one that refuses to ball nicely (Th 'trodes tend to spit on AC, leaving W inclusions), when there are better alternatives.I have welded with both balled pure and pointed 2%.  Both weld well, the ball stays nice and shiny clean while the 2% gets some "stuff" on the tip.  I can't tell the difference when welding because I'm not that good with aluminum.  I have all kinds of tungston, but could go with the red for everything and be happy.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:This goes back to my question about the tungstens I was given. Is there any easy way to tell if it's thoriated, pure or anything else. All I know is he mostly did SS pipe with them, he's not around to ask.
Reply:Originally Posted by WolfmanJack13 This goes back to my question about the tungstens I was given. Is there any easy way to tell if it's thoriated, pure or anything else. All I know is he mostly did SS pipe with them, he's not around to ask.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterWhat color are the rings at the top?
Reply:Originally Posted by WolfmanJack13They are pretty faded but they appear to be red in color.
Reply:Originally Posted by ChamferTrode2% thoriated
Reply:Originally Posted by WolfmanJack13Another newbie tig question. I was given a pile of tungstens (20-25) but I don't know what they are made of. Is there an easy way to tell or is it that critical except for more exotic alloys. Will be doing mostly steel, stainless and aluminum. Guessing that they are made for SS.  Came from a pipefitter who did a lot of SS pipework.
Reply:as Emily Latella would say, "never mind"
Reply:Originally Posted by zapster    I'm that old ...zap!