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I finally got some welding in on some polished 3" SS exhaust piping. This was TIG pulse welded. I'll admit I didn't really take the time to clean the area before welding it up.Ignore the original nice TIG bead at the flange. Mine was the newbie gray bead right behind it. It was really hard to get a good position to weld it as the exhaust is 3 ft long, awkwardly shaped and angled.Any other tips?Last edited by TeCKis300; 07-02-2007 at 05:28 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by TeCKis300I finally got some welding in on some polished 3" SS exhaust piping. This was TIG pulse welded. I'll admit I didn't really take the time to clean the area before welding it up.Ignore the original nice TIG bead at the flange. Mine was the newbie gray bead right behind it. It was really hard to get a good position to weld it as the exhaust is 3 ft long, awkwardly shaped and angled.Any other tips?
Reply:Agree with enlpck.Also, been thinking about the bead for a while -- HAZ looks right so it's not too much heat. My guess would be you've got crud from the backside coming up through the puddle.I'd bet you got great penetration on the weld, but if you don't shield or solarflux the backside, the crud forms as you weld and comes right through.Favorite right now is a Miller Syncro 200.Tons of tools and I blame at least one of them when things don't go right.
Reply:I bet that's a big part of it. The pipes did not fit glove tight against each other and had a 1mm-1.5mm gap in areas. This easily brought the crud up from the backside and I obviously didn't backpurge it.I'm glad the heat is about right and give me some idea I'm going the right direction. How's the argon CFM look?I'm a hobbiest and this project is only for my personal car.Thanks for the tips...I'll keep working on it.Last edited by TeCKis300; 07-02-2007 at 10:03 PM.
Reply:Good thing with SS, you can clean it up, and throw another pass with the torch, sans filler. Keep a rod at the ready, but you don't have to dab if the reweld comes clean. I agree, practice on scrap as much as possible.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:The shielding looks almost non-existent.Since I have no background on what you did, I'll throw out some obvious things to look at.1. 100% Argon gas.2. Moderate flow rate, 10 to 15 cfh. If flow is too high it creates turbulence.3. Try a gas lens or at least a larger cup size.4. Shorten up the electrode stickout.5. Maintain a short arc length, no more than about 1/16".6. Try to keep torch almost perpendicular to the weld surface to concentrate the arc and provide best shielding, a slight push angle is normal.7. Check the system for gas leaks, a leak not only lets argon escape, but also allows air to enter and contaminate the shielding at the arc. Plug the torch at the cup, pressurize the system and leak check all connections and the flow meter with a bubble solution (Windex works).8. Run some small cold beads on scrap stainless and check the color/shielding. You should be able to produce shiny silver welds with light gold/straw color, that is good shielding.
Reply:Thanks pulsur. I took everyones suggestions and re-examined my setup.Mistakes:1) Used the WRONG filler (u can stop laughing now ). I finally realized I should be using SS filler on SS and not regular steal filler.2) I am using argon @ 13ish cfh...BUT I realized I did have leaks in the setup. Got a new high quality pressure hose to attach from the tank to the welder and no more leaks.3) I fit my parts much tighter now before welding. I had a 1-2mm gaps in some areas prior.I think I'm making progress.... THANKS.http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread...022#post110022
Reply:Glad you've got it figured out. Thought maybe you had the wrong gas, but had not thought to ask about the filler. Thanks for sharing your experience, it may help some others out there that are too shy to post their welds. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:57:12