6013 v. 7018 smoe advice please

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I like 7018 a lot but have no way to store them when not needed.  I only stick weld when I can't fit something into the shop, so  most things get MIGed.  In the past all I had was a AC buzz box and 6011   Now that I can use DC rods I have come to like the 7018s and am interested in doing more stuff outside But I can't meet the storage requirements for the rods when not in use (mounts).  So I am considering getting some 6013 rods...  How different do they run?  (I know they are not the same thing / type) Will they store better?Or Can I buy SMALL tins of 7018?Me!
Reply:I hate 6013 period. If your still buying from NBWS, they have 5 and 10 pound Hobart418 7018 in nice plastic boxes. Bring the rod in to the house if you can get a away with it.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Up until  I bought the rod drier from Tozzi, I never had one.  I doubt you will notice the difference.I used to call 6013 farmer rod or ****spreader rod.  I use it on some jobs.  It runs pretty nice, slag comes off easily.  It will weld out of position.  Not deep penetrating, Not low hydragen, but kind of nice to use.  Get 5 lbs and try it.You will still have jobs that need 7018.  Like Tozzi sez, keep em in the house.  Buy small quantities of fresh rod when you need it.  I keep a 10 lb sealed can on my truck, so If I get a job that needs it......Linkin that DC eh?  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Tozzi, are the plastic boxes sealed?  Sounds like just the ticket! Hi Dave, I think I will get some and play with them (6013) but keep using 7018 Will be burning a lot of rods in the am....Me!
Reply:The rods are sealed in a plastic bag inside the box, foodsaver fresh. Thats the reason my Wife won't let me buy one(foodsaver). She knows I will be packaging more XX18 than food.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Tozzi that is a good idea!  My wife wants one anyway!  A few desiccant packs and problem solved.  Me!
Reply:Desiccant won't do anything, the coating on 7018 is almost the same. You can put some fresh 7018 in your gun safe though.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:If you do not need lots of penitration then try a 6011. They have a soft arc and are easy to weld with. As for keeping rods dry. If they do not sit to long you are fine but keep them in a rod tube and the will last for years. I have several tubes from HD and they work great. I found a tub of rods that were at my dads house in the shop for 5 years and they welded great 1/8" 7014's. Steel Thunder Welding LLC. St. Thomas VI USAMM350PBOBCAT 3MAXSTAR 150 STH375 EXTREME PLASMA6.5 HP COMPRESORDEWALT 18, 24, AND 36 VOLTO/A TORCH SETAND SO MUCH MORE I DONT REMEMBERALL IN MY 2005 2500HD EXTENDED CAB L/B
Reply:Each welding rod HAS A PURPOSE.Get one of those pocket welding guides and read about them.There is nothing wrong with using 6013 welding rod.6013 is an ALL POSITION general purpose welding rod. 60,000PSI tensile strength.Medium penetration.7018 is a medium penetration rod for all positions. When welding vertical up it can be diffacult. i won't get into that right now.It is a 70,000 psi tensile strength. It does need to be kept dry or you will see many small holes in the weld if you grind the surface off of the weld. Moisture sensitive.Of coarse you never want to grind any structural weld.7018 is an x-ray quality rod. IT may be overkill for some things.6010 welding rod was called the grandfather rod of shipbuilding.DEEP penetration. It also was called a manure rod for welding dirty rusty,horse trailers etc.,. Lots of stories,It does not deposit a lot of metal . Used for a root pass on pipe. 6011 rod also does not deposit much metal and is used on galvinized fences.Like i said EACH rod has a purpose that it was designed for. Sometimes very specific and sometimes general use. I would not use an x-ray quality rod on everything I do. I would select a rod at is best for each job.You may REALLY like a 7024 rod for FLAT welds because it has a lot of iron powder and puts down a lot of material. Nice appearence.Last edited by Donald Branscom; 01-03-2008 at 01:44 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Me!I like 7018 a lot but have no way to store them when not needed.  I only stick weld when I can't fit something into the shop, so  most things get MIGed.  In the past all I had was a AC buzz box and 6011   Now that I can use DC rods I have come to like the 7018s and am interested in doing more stuff outside But I can't meet the storage requirements for the rods when not in use (mounts).  So I am considering getting some 6013 rods...  How different do they run?  (I know they are not the same thing / type) Will they store better?Or Can I buy SMALL tins of 7018?
Reply:another thing that works is if you have a used fridge big or small thats does not work put your rod in there that for the most part is pretty well air tight and insuladed  it does not compare to a rod oven but work almost as well if you find your rod to be a little moist strike your arc and hold your rod there just long enough to heat it up and dry it out its the poor mans way but will work in a pinch
Reply:wouldn't the 7014 work?    i never thought of ebay for a rod oven.  hmmmm
Reply:Basically, I don't need any other excuses as to why my welds don't look good.  Friend "I thought you were a welder, look at all those holes", Me(not Me!) "Man the rod must be wet....let me go dry them in the kitchen oven".  So, I chose to learn to use 6013, because it is a general purpose rod without "restrictions".  No special storage container.  Lower amperage per comparable size rod.  I weld thin stuff mostly.  From what I understand, 6013 exceed the tensile strenght for mild steel.Last edited by tapwelder; 01-31-2008 at 11:51 AM.
Reply:another suggestion, if this isn't code work and merely for your own welding pleasure..use your oven in the kitchen (from time to time) to bake out any moisture that may accumulate in the low hydrogen rodsTalent is a flame. Genius is a fire.- Bern Williams
Reply:Originally Posted by heimbuckweldinganother thing that works is if you have a used fridge big or small thats does not work put your rod in there that for the most part is pretty well air tight and insuladed  it does not compare to a rod oven but work almost as well if you find your rod to be a little moist strike your arc and hold your rod there just long enough to heat it up and dry it out its the poor mans way but will work in a pinch
Reply:Originally Posted by mooseyeHave used this for years only break or remove the door switch and put in a 100watt bulb. The heat from the light will keep the inside of the fridge nice and warm and dry. Just cut the wire off the compressor and tape up.  Really any kind or air tight insulated box with a light bulb will work for this. Not up too code but better than fingernailing rods.
Reply:Buy your 7018 in 50# boxes and buy a plastic rod box with the screw top with the rubber gasket. Fill the plastic box with rod and tape some heavy plastic over the opening in the 50# can. I always used 4" wide pipe wrapping tape. It will keep a looong time this way. Just re -tape every time you get some more rod out.
Reply:Try  7014 as well as 6013. Not a lo hydrogen, and the flux is a good deal less hygroscopic that '18, so no special storage requirements. lower penetration than '18, but easy running and if you are looking at '13, a good complement to it for higher deposition. Not quite jet rod ('24), but faster than '13.That said, unless you have a real need for the low hydrogen aspect of '18, you can get away without special storage other than keeping them dry. Sealed plastic cans do ok. For critical welds, break open a fresh can (structural, safety related, required by code, etc)  have probably run more improperly stored 7018 than properly. Rods that have been out too long don't go back into the oven, and get used for things where it really doesn't matter. If you are doing primarily thiner sections (less than 1/2") in low carbon steel, you will likely never see any difference. As carbon goes up, and as thickness goes up, the lo hydrogen properties become critical.  Originally Posted by Roy Hodges uses way too much electricity , costs  $ to run . spent about $800 for it , 15 years ago unplugged it after  one month. it's still like new . holds about 100 pounds , i think. It would be great in a commercial shop, in an area with cheap electricty (if there is such a place )
Reply:Hey dad. I thought that was you and now I know it is. That's oldtimer to you guys. Listen to him he knows this stuff better than anyone I have ever met.This new machine is fantastic. It's as smooth as any I have ever used.I usually buy Harris E7018 (the only thing better is Excalibur) in 10lb boxes and put them straight in a rod tube. I would rather have Excalibur but can only get it in 50lb cans, and humidity is a real problem down here.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:sorry i havn,t been posting lads but roger,you promised to show some pics,surely you must appreciate that your very educated opinion means nothing,without some sort of proof of your talents.it isn,t easy to lay your work open to critique,so come on don,t tell show,one picture is worth 1000 words,and i would dearly love to see a textbook 7018 weld ,cap if possible.so please oblige,pipefitter. Attached Images
Reply:Fitter, please see my response to you on the make some and break some for me thread. North Ireland, huh. I have flown over the island several times, unfortunately it was always clouded over. I don't have any pics of pipework I have done, most of the jobsites would not allow cameras. I don't really do any pipe work any more. I just don't get any call for it. If I do I will take pics though. If you want to see truly pretty pipe caps get oldtimer to see if he has any pics around.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.