Which Aluminum Alloy?

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Gearing up for a project and I'm not entirely sure about which alloy I need to use.   It'll be aluminum sheet between 16-10ga and I need to bend it in a brake at 90*.  I want an alloy which will bend well without breaking or cracking but maintain some strength and hardness.  This is not a heavy stress or load application and it is not critical.   I've purchased from Online Metals many times in the past and am considering buying from them.  They offer 2024-T3, 5052-H32, 6061-T6 and 7075-T6.Thanks in advance.      Tom
Reply:Originally Posted by BeezerGearing up for a project and I'm not entirely sure about which alloy I need to use.   It'll be aluminum sheet between 16-10ga and I need to bend it in a brake at 90*.  I want an alloy which will bend well without breaking or cracking but maintain some strength and hardness.  This is not a heavy stress or load application and it is not critical.   I've purchased from Online Metals many times in the past and am considering buying from them.  They offer 2024-T3, 5052-H32, 6061-T6 and 7075-T6.Thanks in advance.      Tom
Reply:I just occurred to me .Yes minimize the temper but also keep in mind what finish ie Powder Coat or Anodizing and ask your coater as to the suitability of the alloy.A good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:6061- T6 wiil crack for sure.i would use the 5052 because it will have all of the properties you want.2024 is also not going to be the best for what you want to do if it is hardened. for instance 2024-T3  (means it is hardened). it will crack.6061-T6 (means hardened). it will crack. 10 ga. is almost 1/8 thickness.2024 series is used for aircraft skin and you rarely see any sharp bends.it is clad with pure aluminum to act as a corrosion barrier and cathode.Like Alclad.Last edited by Donald Branscom; 02-20-2008 at 06:54 PM.
Reply:what bend radius are you trying to achieve? both alloy and sheet thickness will affect what's possible...http://www.luminum.com/data/dbendrad.htmlremember to orient the part during layout so that bends are made AGAINST the grainfrom the alloy options you listed 5052 would be the best choice. 3003 is even more formable than 5052 but with lower mechanical properties- usually commonly available too. doesn't work harden as quickly either (read more useful for parts with lots of shaping required/relatively small expanses of unshaped metal)
Reply:"what bend radius are you trying to achieve? "Like I said.  A 90* bend on a metal brake.I could mic it if you'd like.
Reply:You can bend 6061 easy enough if you anneal it beforehand..I'll tell ya how if you want.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by Beezer"what bend radius are you trying to achieve? "Like I said.  A 90* bend on a metal brake.I could mic it if you'd like.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterYou can bend 6061 easy enough if you anneal it beforehand..I'll tell ya how if you want.....zap!
Reply:Hotrodder, I took your advice.   I looked at the chart.  Matching it with the list of alloys available at onlinemetals.com isn't too promising.    Not very many choices other than buying whichever matched my needs elsewhere in the piece, and anneal the bend area.   I'm thinking 6061-T6 and anneal the bend line.   This sure is a lotta thought to just build a pair of window flower boxes.   It's worth it.  I'm building them for the man who bought me the welder.   Appreciate the link.
Reply:window boxes, just get yourself some 3003 (or 1100) and have at it.aluminium properties/applications...  http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/aluse...plications.aspif you're dead set on using this on line supplier then 5052 will be a better bet than 6061. as i said before it's pretty easy to modify a leaf/box and pan brake to produce larger radius bends (assuming that's acceptable aesthetically speaking).'backyard' annealing...  coat the area to be annealed with soot from a pure acetylene flame, turn on the oxygen for a neutral flame and heat evenly until the soot burns off. won't completely anneal heat treated alloys (they require more time at temperature) but it will soften it significantly. as with welding (heat treated alloys) you can end up with overaged areas tooLast edited by hotrodder; 02-21-2008 at 09:31 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterYou can bend 6061 easy enough if you anneal it beforehand..I'll tell ya how if you want.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonYes please, Zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterIts not that difficult but it must be done right!First scribe where you want your bend..Forget markers..you won't see the line after your done..Get the oxy accetelyene torch out..Blacken both sides of your scribed line with the accetelyne..Turn up the oxygen now and get that nice blue flame..Heat the blackened area (both sides) just untill you see the black going away.. At this point dunk the piece in a bucket of cold water..Now it's annealed and you will be able to bend it whatever angle you wish without cracking..I've done it with pieces up to 1/2" thick with no problems.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonThanks! Zap!---now let's see if you or makoman1860 will reveal the process forre-heatreating 6000 series aluminum.