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As far as I remember, I don't think I ever used any 7014. I may have years ago but I probably forgot. For the most part I keep lots of 6010, and 7018 around. I use the old rebaked 7018 for general purpose bs welding.What does 7014 weld like? I am thinking I should buy some to keep on the truck. From what I understand it isn't as critical to keep dry. What does it weld like? Is it pretty much the same as 7018 as far as technique goes? Will it lay a nice cap over a pass of 6010?Joewww.CummingsHauling.com
Reply:i have been using the 7014 for the last couple of weeks. it runs great flat, and good overhead, but i can't get it to run great on the side of pipe in the 6G position. it weaves great on vertical, but i can't run a vertical stringer with it. it seems to have a more fluid puddle than the 7018.
Reply:I have never had any reason to run 7014 and this made me curious. I drug out the reference book and found that 7014 has approx. 30% iron powder in the coating while 7018 only has approx. 25% iron powder. Stands to reason the puddle would be more fluid. Flat only 7024 has approx. 50% iron powder. I knew the content of 7018 and 7024 but had no idea about 7014. 7014 is not a low hydrogen rod either.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerI have never had any reason to run 7014 and this made me curious. I drug out the reference book and found that 7014 has approx. 30% iron powder in the coating while 7018 only has approx. 25% iron powder. Stands to reason the puddle would be more fluid. Flat only 7024 has approx. 50% iron powder. I knew the content of 7018 and 7024 but had no idea about 7014. 7014 is not a low hydrogen rod either.
Reply:You made me curious about 7014 as I've never had any reason to use it. I dug out the reference book and found that 7014 has 5% more iron powder in the coating than 7018. It stands to reason it would be more fluid. Since 7014 is not a low hydrogen rod moisture shpuldn't bother it like 7018.
Reply:I though I deleted the first post. Sorry about that.
Reply:7014 was great to have around if all you had was an AC buzzbox welder and before 7018AC was available. If you have 7018 on hand I see no reason to go out and buy any 7014. By using 7018 for anything that you would use 7014 your supply of 7018 will stay drier because you'll use it up faster.
Reply:I agree with all posted, but keep in mind what Oldtimer stated. A 7014 is not a low hydrogren rod like a 7018. It's a general purpose mild steel rod. Just because it has a 70,000 pound tensile strength doesn't mean it can be interchanged with a 7018 when a low hydrogen rod is needed.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:What heat range would you use on an ac welder for the 7018??I use 7014 to build things like swing out tire carriers and used 7014 to weld angle verticles to my utility trailer frame. Is this an adequate rod to use for these applications??I can't get a 7018 rod to start. 7014's are easy to start and control but the 7018's are very difficult rod to use on my 13 year old miller-thunderbolt stick welder.
Reply:If you want to try 7018 on your crackerbox Lincoln makes 7018 AC now especially for AC machines. You can probably run it a few amps cooler than 7024.
Reply:I don't do all that much stick but in my limited use of it on DC, 7014 runs similar to 7018 and yeah I agree about the more fluid puddle. I can't do a vert up stringer with it either, it just wants to droop out, but it weaves up fine. The slag is a little thicker and stickier and seems more sooty than the thin glaze of the 7018 slag. It seems like 7014 is a little more forgiving on the arc length than 7018 and 7014 is alot easier to start and re-start too. That's the only thing I don't like about 7018. On the flat, with just the right heat and operation 7014 lays down about as nice and smooth as 7024.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33I don't do all that much stick but in my limited use of it on DC, 7014 runs similar to 7018 and yeah I agree about the more fluid puddle. I can't do a vert up stringer with it either, it just wants to droop out, but it weaves up fine. The slag is a little thicker and stickier and seems more sooty than the thin glaze of the 7018 slag. It seems like 7014 is a little more forgiving on the arc length than 7018 and 7014 is alot easier to start and re-start too. That's the only thing I don't like about 7018. On the flat, with just the right heat and operation 7014 lays down about as nice and smooth as 7024.
Reply:Worked for an earthmoving contractor years ago that welded just about everthing with a 7014, can't recall to many problems, they were an easy rod to use.
Reply:The 7018 tends to burn up inside the flux a bit. That's usually a big part of the 'restart' issue. Take your gloved fingers and crumble a tiny bit of the end, or drag it off on something not part of the work lead loop, or barely tap it with a pair of pliers, lots of ways.
Reply:doing a little bucket bottom replacement and all the final passes are with large dia 7014 running at 187 amps smoking heres some pics still have to finish all the welds on all skid bars and put all the teeth back on and weld all bottom parts then flip over and finish all welds inside bucket the company wanted to reuse all the teeth so I had to air arc off all and clean them up to be put back on Attached ImagesWELD IT RIGHT OR GO HOME!!!
Reply:desertrider33 i found that if i dragged 7014 it left a fat coldlookin bead, if i raised arc length up it left a flatter bead that seemed to have penetrated, and i could get a longer and longer arc length that just blew some metal out...restarts i could actually twist-grind through the flux on the end of the stick to get an arc..
Reply:i love 7014, i havent welded any in the last 3 years at home and not at workin over a year, and mostly tig or 1/16 innershield mig when i did. I have @ 30#of 7014, dont even remember when or where i got it , it has just been around for ever, fired up some 1/8 7014 this evening. burned like a champinsert thoughtful quote from someone else2000 Thermal Arc 300GTSW 3.5 hours1946 Monarch 20 x 54 Lathe1998 Supermax 10x54 Mill2004 Haco Atlantic 1/2" Capacity Lasernot mine but i get to play with it
Reply:Weldbead, if you have to long-arc 7014 then you might need to set the amps a bit higher then it will lay down nice and flat dragging it.Sandy, with 7018 I usually tap the end of the rod on anything hard and un-grounded to break off the glaze at the tip. I hadn't thought of using pliers on it. Have tried it with gloved fingers, kinda hot! 7014 is easier/faster to use in that respect.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op |
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