Brushed finish on hand rail?

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Hey all, this may not be the correct place for this question but here goes...Every now and then we do some stainless steel hand rail, and we usually send it out to have it "finished" to get the brushed look.I am bidding a project that I will most likely get, and this time I am interested in buying the equipment to put the finish on the rail myself.Anyway, I know they use hand-held belt sanders, but I am wondering if any of you can put me on the right track as far as recommendations for certain sanders that I should be looking at or avoid.Thanks in advance!
Reply:Originally Posted by gfourthHey all, this may not be the correct place for this question but here goes...Every now and then we do some stainless steel hand rail, and we usually send it out to have it "finished" to get the brushed look.I am bidding a project that I will most likely get, and this time I am interested in buying the equipment to put the finish on the rail myself.Anyway, I know they use hand-held belt sanders, but I am wondering if any of you can put me on the right track as far as recommendations for certain sanders that I should be looking at or avoid.Thanks in advance!
Reply:Originally Posted by gfourthHey all, this may not be the correct place for this question but here goes...Every now and then we do some stainless steel hand rail, and we usually send it out to have it "finished" to get the brushed look.I am bidding a project that I will most likely get, and this time I am interested in buying the equipment to put the finish on the rail myself.Anyway, I know they use hand-held belt sanders, but I am wondering if any of you can put me on the right track as far as recommendations for certain sanders that I should be looking at or avoid.Thanks in advance!
Reply:I may add it is time consuming and takes a bit of practice . I dont know what your paying to get it done , its often a case of getting the polishers do what they do and you do what you do best.With T304 and T316 , if it rail is going into an aggressive environment ie near the sea , you may consider passivation as you will have lost your Cr Oxide layer.It is also easy to contaminate the weldment if mild steel or ally is introduced on your belts, accelerating tea leafing.A good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterHow big is the material?How long are the runs?Is it tubing like I'm thinking??There are many ways to get what your after..A "D.A." sander would work..Or a standard "Airboard" like in any body shop..If the tubing? is semi finished as is you could just use brown "ScotchBrite" pads..More info is welcome.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by BrettI may add it is time consuming and takes a bit of practice . I dont know what your paying to get it done , its often a case of getting the polishers do what they do and you do what you do best.With T304 and T316 , if it rail is going into an aggressive environment ie near the sea , you may consider passivation as you will have lost your Cr Oxide layer.It is also easy to contaminate the weldment if mild steel or ally is introduced on your belts, accelerating tea leafing.
Reply:Originally Posted by gfourthWell, I was hoping to get away with using 1-1/4" std pipe like we do w/ all our painted or galv pipe rail, but I probably should go with 1-1/2" O.D. tubing for this I would guess.The runs would be no longer than 12'.  The job consists of about 27 lin. ft. of 7 strand guardrail, and then about another 56 lin. ft in wall mount rail.EDIT:  I should have noted that this particular job will be mild steel, with brushed finish and clear coat.
Reply:Best thing to do, is go over to the Miller boards, and ask this guy ....  http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ber.php?u=8297Anybody can weld two pieces of stainless together; only a true artist or craftsman can do so without you being able to see it ....  and this guy can do it.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrettAh, I thought it was stainless, mild steel is far more forgiving and yes I agree with Zap a brown scotch brite should get you up to about 180 grit , you may consider a green after that.You want a pipe or tube linisher.Big trick is to get the raw material in as good as condition as possible and keep it that way during fabrication.A good one over here will set you back about seven  hundred dollars AU. But if you have it a quick going over before sending it to the pros may save you a few dollars?
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310Best thing to do, is go over to the Miller boards, and ask this guy ....  http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ber.php?u=8297Anybody can weld two pieces of stainless together; only a true artist or craftsman can do so without you being able to see it ....  and this guy can do it.