First MIG setup: What else do I need?

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I'm pretty new to all of this, but I've spent a lot of time the last few weeks reading and getting as much info as possible about different types of welding, different rigs, etc...Based on all of that, I just picked up a reman Hobart Handler 187 rig from Toolking for a great price, and now I'm wondering what else I need to have to get going.  From what I've read through here and other places, here's a list of what seems to be the minimum to get up and running for some light hobby work.  What else do you all think I would want/need?  Also, if you know of any good deals on some of this stuff, please let me know.Gas Bottle (C25, 80 cf at least)Welding GlovesAuto-darkening helmetChipping hammerwire brush (stainless?)Welding Jacket (leather)C-ClampsANgle GrinderChop SawPlenty of scrap and wire Thanks in advance.  This site especially has already been a great resource, and I look forward to learning a lot more here as I progress.
Reply:Sounds like your off to a great startClamps.....all kinds of clampsand maybe make your first project a welding table  weld it like you own it
Reply:Hello and welcome to the forum.I would add a good welding jacket or welding shirt. It will save on your clothing in the long run. Get a helmet that is comfortable and fits you well. A pair of mig pliers is a good idea but you can make do with a pair of diagonal cutters, a pair of needlenose or linemans pliers. Plenty of scrap of diferent thicknesses to practice on.Thats a goodmachine and I think you will be happy with it. When yostart welding post up some picts and we'll help out.Good luck.
Reply:You probably won't use a leather welding jacket much.  long sleeve cotton shirt will work for starters.  Can't have too many clamps.  I like vice grip clamps.  I don't like the cheap imitations.  For clamps I look at pawn shops and yard sale, where ever else...  Amazon.com list venders who sell them fairly cheap.I like stainless brushes, though not necessary for mild steel.Buy 10 lbs spools of wire.safety goggles and face shield.
Reply:Thanks for the advice on the welding shirt.  I have an old leather jacket, but it looks like the shirts would be much more comfortable.   Also, the goggles and shield :-)  Can't believe I didn't think of those.
Reply:If you work in a garage with any flamable material around, including cardboard boxes or lumber scraps, it's worth having a fire extinguisher--a CO2 or Dry Powder type--around just in case.You also need decent boots which won't allow hot metal/slag to fall onto your foot while welding.If you work with stainless or aluminum, each needs its own stainless brush to avoid cross-contamination. A carbon steel brush is fine for mild steel, the kind with thicker wires for removing scale and slag.
Reply:because you can actually touch the wire to the work  before you pull the trigger, id say mig is the welding discipline where you least need an autodakening hood...
Reply:If you get to doing a lot of work, you'll find it quite handy to have more than one grinder.  One for grinding, and one with a wire wheel on it.  It gets to be very time consuming to switch wheels back and forth.On the welding shirt part, I've found that the heavy cotton Carhart shirts always last the best for me.  If you starch them, they'll last a lot longer.  Vice grip clamps are mighty handy at times.  I know the real "vice grip" ones cost a lot more than the el-cheapo ones, but after a few pinched fingers, thrown clamps...etc.  you'll appreciate the value of quality tools.
Reply:Weld you up a steel welding table, great project and invaluableTim Beeker.
Reply:Cool.  Thanks again for the help.  I've spent the afternoon looking around cyberweld, toolking, harborfreight, etc...and I think I'm pretty much good to go.  New shirt, gloves, brush, helmet, some clamps, hood, goggles, ear protection, soapstone, etc... I also picked up a pair of 4.5" grinders.  One refurb Makita from Toolking for $40 (seems like a good deal) and another $18 Harbor Freight cheapie, which I couldn't resist when I was at the store.  I still need to find a good saw of some sort (chop or band), but that'll probably have to wait for a little while.  And to think, I got into this b/c I didn't want to pay someone $300 to do a job for me :-)  My startup has far exceeded that, but I've already got a list of projects to start on and I don't even actually have the welder in hand yet.Last edited by Dustin_J; 07-20-2008 at 03:47 PM.Reason: pour speeling
Reply:I've been using the Wrangler denim shirts for welding in for years (I and many others back home got quite upset when they dropped the Brushpoppers). I tried the Carharts and was unimpressed considering they cost twice as much and really don't protect much better. I'm allergic to starch so that is out of the equation completely. Your cheapest option would be one of the green welding jackets since you won't be wearing it all day everyday. About the only time I ever put my leather sleeves on is when I am using 10 class stick electrodes. Once in a while if I am in a tight spot and have to be right in the splatter. They are very hot.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Hey Dustin.  It will get worse before it gets better!  I am glad you are starting out with enthusiasm, that will serve you well. It is a great feeling to see a weld joint come together for yourself, and you think, "Wow, I did that!"  But before I start flattering myself in present company,   I will pass along something that you should hear, and probably will hear a hundred times, get comfortable and relax. Part of developing a steady hand is having decent gloves. There are myriads of styles for all sorts of work, but for standard duty mig or stick welding, these are the best thing in gloves I have run into so far. The Elkskin leather is soft, yet tough. The gauntlet sleeves are wide for jacket sleeves to fit well underneath, and the quality is outstanding. Besides switching to cotton jackets over leather, (just my personal preference), these gloves (or any quality glove) make the biggest difference in getting "the feel of things". Enjoy!http://www.airgas.com/browse/product...&WT.svl=381355City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:After many years and lots of different gloves tried out I have decided the elk skin Tillman 750s and 850s can't be beat. They outlast everything I have tried and they don't stiffen up like cowhide. I use the Tillman 24c kidskin gloves for stick and mig in hot weather as well as for general work gloves and for riding gloves on my Harley. They are comfortable and last real well. I even buy them when I work jobs that supply gloves just because I hate welding in uncomfortable gloves.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Well, I picked up a pair of these gloves from HF on a whim, but they feel pretty stiff. HF GlovesMaybe I'll relegate them to work gloves and pick up a pair of those Tillman gloves.  They seem to be all the rage with the folks around here
Reply:Your mig'in not tig'in. Use cheap gloves til you get comfortable. ANY glove is better then none. Then get some elk skin. Fire that pig up, burn some wire, then take a picture of yourself, you just may have the biggest smile on your face. Most important, try to learn and have fun, you just may make a profession of it. Never know.Tim Beeker.
Reply:They are good comfortable gloves, and when you are working with your hands that goes a long ways. If they last me two months using them all day every day (and I don't cut them any slack as they are just another tool of the trade) they should last you almost forever. I tried those HF gloves just for grins and the result was they started coming apart the first day (liner disintegrated) and were in the trash on the third day. I don't like it when the fireballs start coming in where the seams used to be, lol. My business partner gets the cheap cowhide gloves. I told him when he stopped grabbing red hot pieces of iron then he could have the good ones.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Jolly brings up a good point, don't use your gloves to pick up hot steel. They make pliers and vise-grips for that. Since you're going to be using gas, I don't see any reason for a chipping hammer. Gassed MIG is as clean as TIG and O/A. I use the cheap green coats also, just keep the UV off your arms and neck. This won't work for well for stick, but that's not what you're doing. The Handler 187 has a GREAT reputation, congratulations. And, YES, wear wrap-around safety glasses under your helmet. You should never be in the shop without them.Last edited by Craig in Denver; 07-23-2008 at 10:33 PM.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Thanks again guys.  I'll definitely pick up a pair of those Tillman gloves.  I have a Tillman Onyx jacket, which seems like it'll fit the bill quite nicely, as well as a pair of THESE safety goggles, which wrap around and seal nice and tight.  One thing I've learned from riding my Harley is that you want things sealed tight around your eyes when chunks of grit are flying at you As for pliers, I have some regular round-nose, needle nose, MIG pliers, and a pair THESE flat-jawed welding pliers.  Are there any other specialty things like this you find useful?Last edited by Dustin_J; 07-23-2008 at 11:21 PM.
Reply:It's already been mentioned ....  the FIRE EXTINGUISHER!!!!   You would be amazed, how easy it is to start a fire, when you least expect it.  Once you start a fire, it's too late to go down to the store and buy one .....
Reply:You need a project!!! http://www.lincolnelectric.com/community/projects/Last edited by smithboy; 07-23-2008 at 11:52 PM.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310It's already been mentioned ....  the FIRE EXTINGUISHER!!!!   You would be amazed, how easy it is to start a fire, when you least expect it.  Once you start a fire, it's too late to go down to the store and buy one .....
Reply:He already has at least one project, smithboy.What else but a welding table.The Lincoln one is OK as a light-duty table.  But a thicker top and beefier all around is almost always better.If you work outside in the yard or driveway, in -addition- to a real fire extinguisher, have either a bucket of water or a garden hose ready.  Hot sparks or molten metal can set your yard on fire.  Water is quite handy to put that out, before it becomes a 911 level event.And speaking of grit, get some flap-wheels to go with the grinder(s).  And some sort of quick evaporating grease/oil solvent/remover.  Acetone works well, brake cleaner spray works well, etc, etc.Safety note:  Watch out for flammable vapors from solvents.  Or lighting up solvent rags, etc, etc.A full-face clear face shield for non-welding work.  The goggles or safety glass keep (most) stuff out of your eys, but it's still not fun getting wire-brush pieces or metal sparks or high velocity grit in your cheeks or lips.  And those are just the 'normal' operations and behavior of the tools and attachments.  If a wheel or disk breaks, you might have wished for body armor.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:A metal garbage can.  Hot grinding scraps, grinding dust, little shards of metal, wire stubs, rags, etc.  You'll be glad you have one.